Top 10 things to do in Telluride this winter

Top 10 things to do in Telluride this winter

Tom Watkinson takes a run at Telluride Ski Resort in March 2021. Pam LeBlanc photo

In the last 10 years, I’ve made it to Telluride, Colorado, tucked tight in the end of the prettiest box canyon in the state, at least six times. I always leave exhausted – days of downhill skiing, climbing frozen waterfalls, riding fat-tire bikes through the snow, zooming around on snowmobiles, and inching across a cabled climbing route called a via ferrata will do that.

Thinking about a trip? Here are my recommendations for things to do on your next visit to this classic ski town on the southwestern side of the state. (I’ve got a whole different list for summer.)

  1. The slopes. This one’s obvious, but it’s all about the skiing here. The resort spans more than 2,000 acres, with 19 lifts whisking skiers up those scenic peaks. The longest run stretches 4.6 miles, and from See Forever Run you can, well, see forever. Masks are required in lift lines.
  2. A drink. At the end of the ski day, grab a margarita (yes, I live in Texas and I just said that) at Gorrono Ranch on the mountain. Because of Covid, the resort has built a terraced outdoor patio out of snow, and it’s a perfect place to listen to live music and celebrate a day of conquering those black diamond runs. Take a peek inside the log cabin, once a sheep herder’s home and now a cozy bar warmed by a pot-bellied stove.

End your ski day with a drink at Gorrono Ranch on the mountain. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

Ride the free gondola from Mountain Village to Telluride to get this view. Pam LeBlanc photo

3. The gondola. Visitors can stay in the original town of Telluride, on the valley floor, or book a room in Mountain Village. Either way, it’s a free 15-minute gondola ride from one place to the other, and the night view of town lights sparkling far below alone are worth the trip.

4. Grab an old fashioned (or a bottle of bourbon) at the Telluride Distilling Company’s tasting room in Mountain Village. They make and sell their own vodka, schnapps and whiskey.

Ride a snowmobile to the ghost town of Alta. Pam LeBlanc photo

5. Ride a snowmobile to the ghost town of Alta at 11,800 feet, home of a couple hundred miners during the heyday of the Alta-Gold King area in the late 1800s. The old boarding house still stands. Telluride Outfitters offers tours.

6. Plan on dinner at There, a multi-course event that changes according to the chef’s whim. During my visit last week, the lineup included andouille mussels, tuna niçoise, wagyu beef tartar, roasted duck, seared lamb loin and Nutella semifreddo, a kind of frozen mousse. Yum.

 

The bear stands at the end of Colorado Ave. Pam LeBlanc photo

7. Stroll down East Colorado Avenue to get a glimpse of Ursa Ravus, a 15-foot sculpture of a waving bear made of 187,000 pennies.

8. Book a room at Lumiere with Inspirato in Mountain Village. I love the historic old New Sheridan Hotel and Hotel Telluride in town, but this trip I discovered a sweet new place to catch my Zs – the Lumiere with Inspirato in Mountain Village. It’s posh – my room had a kitchenette (and a basket full of bacon, eggs, fresh baked bread and fruit so I could cook breakfast in), a sitting area, balcony, giant cushy bed and access to an outdoor hot tub and a ski valet. Did I mention it’s ski in-ski out?

Skiers take a break for lunch on the mountain at Telluride. Pam LeBlanc photo 

9. Drop by the StrongHouse, even if you don’t feel like partaking in one of its fresh house brews (I like the honey ginger blonde ale). The brewery occupies a cool old stone building that dates to 1892 – and some pretty neat old photographs showing its early days.

10. One more restaurant recommendation – 221 South Oak, which this winter is offering a wine and pairing class that includes a box of ingredients to make a three-course pasta meal for two, plus three half bottles of wine, for just $100. It comes with an instructional (and fun!) video of how to cook it, starring my pal Tom Watkinson. Or just drop by for a meal in the heated yurt out back, and finish with a Flatliner, the coffee-infused signature drink of Telluride.

Telluride is located in a box canyon, so you get a great view no matter what direction you look. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pay a visit to the Telluride Penny Bear

Pay a visit to the Telluride Penny Bear

The bear stands at the end of Colorado Ave. Pam LeBlanc photo

While in Telluride this week, I walked down Colorado Avenue to pay a visit to Mr. Moneybags himself, Ursa Ravus.

The 15-foot sculpture of a bear, created by Lisa and Robert Ferguson, otherwise known as Mr & Mrs Ferguson Art, is built of 187,000 pennies embedded in concrete.

The bear’s innards are made of carved Styrofoam and steel tubing, and it took the Fergusons – Lisa is a cinematographer; Robert is a welder – four months to make. (They had help from a few assistants.)

The bear was made by Mr. and Mrs. Ferguson Art. Pam LeBlanc photo

The Penny Bear resides at the end of East Colorado Avenue, where it stands tall with one paw raised in greeting. Visitors are encouraged to admire and touch it. I’ve seen the giant bear before, but never with a sprinkling of snow on its fur.

The Fergusons have also created installations for Burning Man Festival and are making another penny bear for Google headquarters in Mountain View, California.

Judy and Steven Gluckstern commissioned the piece as public art in Telluride.

The 15-foot sculpture is made of 187,000 pennies. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

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If a Colorado ski trip still appeals after Austin’s wintry blast, read on…

If a Colorado ski trip still appeals after Austin’s wintry blast, read on…

Chris LeBlanc skis a run at Copper Mountain in February 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

The Great Texas Snowpocalypse may have dampened your enthusiasm for a ski trip this season, but just in case, I’m here with an update from my contacts in Colorado.

Ski lifts are still whisking folks up the slopes and skiers are still schussing happily down them, albeit in smaller numbers this year, according to Chris Linsmayer, public affairs director of Colorado Ski Country USA, which represents 22 ski areas in Colorado.

“Largely the season is going well, but business is down due to Covid,” Linsmayer said. “Visitors are grateful to come out and experience some normalcy.”

The good news? Snow sports are, by their nature, less risky than other endeavors during a pandemic. “You’re outside and you have skis or a board on your feet, so it’s naturally socially distant,” Linsmayer said.

The bad news? Outbreaks have been reported at some area ski resorts. Those cases, including a rash of more than 100 reported among employees at Winter Park last week, have been traced to workers who live and socialize together. So far there have been no reports of employees transferring the virus to visitors.

If you do decide to make a trip, keep a few things in mind. Ski Country is still pushing it’s “Know before you go” message, encouraging visitors to check the Colorado Ski Country website at www.coloradoski.com or go to the individual website of the resort they plan to visit for Covid tips and advice.

Most resorts are requiring pre-purchase of lift tickets, and some require pre-purchase of parking.

Resorts are encouraging visitors to eat meals outdoors, on picnic tables or benches. This group enjoys a meal next to the parking lot at Arapaho Basin in February 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

Dining restrictions vary by county, but some have increased occupancy rates at sit-down restaurants to 50 percent. (Others, like Telluride, are at 25 percent capacity.) Many resorts offer grab-and-go meals on the mountain, and some offer creative solutions, like gondola cars or yurts that serve as dining pods, or tents that allow breezes to flow through.

Under state regulations, masks must be worn – over your nose and mouth – in public spaces, including lift lines. And a single Buff or bandana won’t cut it. Either use a regular face mask or double down on those thin neck gaiters.

“Our state regulations allow you to take off masks while skiing, but you must put them on while in line,” Linsmayer said.

Here are a few more specific updates …

Patrick O’Sullivan skis a run at Arapaho Basin. Pam LeBlanc photo

Aspen Snowmass

Aspen-Snowmass, which incorporates four ski resorts (Aspen, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass and Buttermilk), has a sense of humor – they’re pushing a “Fine Dining on the Lift” theme, encouraging folks to pick up individually wrapped and easily transported food items like sandwiches and salads in containers that are easy to eat from. That way you can eat them outside, on benches, inside heated tents, or while the lift whisks you up the mountain for that next run.

“It’s kind of feeling like we’re a little bit back to normal,” said Xanthe Demas, communications manager at the area.

A new six-person lift is turning at Snowmass, and both Aspen and Snowmass have added snowmaking operations.

Copper Mountain

Copper Mountain, where I skied last February, just started offering six-person group lessons, instead of limiting them to privates. They’ve also added guided uphill tours and expanded uphill routes (a terrific workout best done at dawn!) to the menu, and during the month of February are donating $5 of every lift ticket purchased on Wednesday to a non-profit organization as part of the Play it Forward Wednesday movement, said communications manager Taylor Prather.

Monarch Mountain

I made it to Monarch Mountain last winter too, where marketing director Dan Bender says the resort is enjoying a winter storm cycle (probably more than Austin is enjoying its winter storm cycle.)

“Still, it has been a challenging year,” Bender said.

The mountain has added a food truck that peddle burritos at the base area, and another that serves grab-and-go food at mid-mountain. The trucks will be incorporated permanently, he said. Lodges are instituting social distancing guidelines.

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Thinking of hitting the slopes? Check Covid protocols before you go

Thinking of hitting the slopes? Check Covid protocols before you go

Chris LeBlanc skis Monarch Mountain near Salida, Colorado, in January 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

Hankering to hit the slopes in 2021 but not sure if it’s safe during a pandemic?

You’re probably more at risk traveling to a ski resort or eating in a restaurant once you’re there than you are actually skiing or snowboarding, according to guidelines from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

The health agency notes that “outdoors is the safer choice if you want to spend time with people you don’t live with.” It recommends staying at least 6 feet apart from people you don’t live with, bringing a mask to wear when you encounter others, and avoiding crowds and poorly vented indoor spaces. That’s all doable, thanks to protocols in place at Colorado ski slopes to minimize risk of spreading Covid-19.

Most Colorado resorts require advance reservations made online to get lift tickets or parking places. Visitors must wear masks on lifts and in lines.

“We know people want to be outdoors, and they feel relatively safe outdoors,” said Chris Linsmayer, public affairs director of Colorado Ski Country, which represents 22 ski resorts in the state.

He reminds visitors to check with their destination before heading out to know the rules and to reserve lift tickets or book ski lessons (group size is limited.) Check to see if your resort has an ap you can download, like Aspen Snowmass Ski Resort.

“Things are going to look different,” said Olivia Butrymovich, public relations coordinator at Copper Mountain Resort.

Most food service has shifted outdoors to limit indoor gatherings, so grab-and-go offerings or creative options like yurts or gondolas have popped up.

“There are no walkup ticket purchases,” says Jen Miller at Winter Park Ski Resort, who also recommends planning a mid-week trip, to avoid peak weekend days. “You buy in advance, including lessons and rentals.”

It’s easy to stay socially distant while skiing in Colorado. Here, Chris LeBlanc enjoys a deserted run at Copper Mountain in January 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

Here are some ways to make your trip safer:

  1. Rent a condo, rental house or room with a full kitchen, so you can cook your meals instead of going out. Some hotels, including the newResidence Inn by Marriott in Steamboat Springs, offer a ski valet, grocery deliver and suites with full kitchens.
  2. Book through a management company with safety protocols and social distancing amenities in place. Moving Mountains, which offers luxury rentals in Beaver Creek, Vail and Steamboat Springs, follows CDC and Vacation Rental Management Association Safe Home Guidelines.
  3. Avoid standing in line at a rental shop. Bring your own gear or take advantage of companies like Black Tie Ski Rental Deliverythat offer contactless or minimal contact delivery of skis, boots and poles to wherever you are staying.
  4. Avoid crowded restaurants. Either cook in, or take advantage of options like the eight-person yurts operated by Aurum Food & Wine in Breckenridge and Steamboat. You can dine in a refurbished gondola car in Telluride, or buy takeaway from a snowcat in Snowmass and other resorts.

For more information, go to the Covid page on Coloradoski.com.

The back bowls at Copper Mountain offer plenty of terrain to explore. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

 

 

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I blindfolded myself for the trip over this Colorado mountain pass

I blindfolded myself for the trip over this Colorado mountain pass

The view from the top is great, but I had to blindfold myself as Chris drove over Independence Pass in Colorado. Chris LeBlanc photo


Sheer, exposed cliffs make my kneecaps clatter like castanets.
Once, during a backpacking trip, I had to crawl on my hands and knees through a 200-foot stretch of trail that was making my eyeballs spin like plates balanced on the end of long, spindly poles. So no, my favorite part of last week’s campervan tour of Colorado wasn’t taking Highway 82 over Independence Pass, between Aspen and Twin Lakes.
Thankfully, my husband drove and I blindfolded myself with a bandana fished from the pile of facial coverings shoved in the Dodge ProMaster 1500 campervan we’d rented. He negotiated all the drop-offs and hairpin turns; it scared the hell out of me.

I snapped this picture of Chris after we’d gone over the most terrifying stretch of the road. Pam LeBlanc photo


Before driving the pass, you should know a few things.
First, vehicles (or vehicles plus trailers) that exceed 35 feet in length, are prohibited from driving the pass. The transportation department has a handy bit of technology set up that flashes a warning light if your rig is too long. There’s a spot to turn around if necessary.
In two places on the Aspen side of the pass, the road narrows so much that only one car can negotiate the road at a time. If you meet an oncoming vehicle (like we did, in both spots), some jockeying will take place. Chris had to fold in the side mirrors so we could squeeze past one car.
The road is narrow and twisty, with steep inclines. There are guardrails in places, but they’re low. The pass closes every winter because you’d have to be crazy to drive across it in inclement weather. The elevation at the top of the pass is 12,095 feet, and you can pull over and park (and hyperventilate like me for a few minutes), and even get out and enjoy the scenery (which is not at all scary at that spot and quite beautiful!).
Also, be on the lookout for cyclists, who like to pedal over the pass for fun. (No thanks.)
My husband, who has also driven the Million Dollar Highway between Ouray and Durango, says this pass isn’t as scary as that one. That one, he says, needs more guardrails. (I crouched on the baseboards of our car as we made that crossing a few years ago, during a winter ski trip. Never again.)
As we made our way down the less terrifying, Twin Lakes side of Independence Pass toward a campground, I opened my eyes. The worst was behind us – except that even on that far more gradual decline, I saw a popup trailer, minus its tow vehicle, dangling about 20 feet down a slope, slightly crumpled.
Afterward, for fun, as we popped a bottle of wine to take the edge off the experience, I googled Independenvr Pass. My advice? Don’t do that.
And if extreme heights give you the willies, leave the driving to someone else.

About Pam

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