Love Big Bend Ranch State Park? Put the Fiesta on your calendar

Love Big Bend Ranch State Park? Put the Fiesta on your calendar

Heidi Armstrong and Dan Opdyke ride their bikes at Big Bend Ranch State Park during Chihuahuan Desert Bike Fest in February 2018. Photo by Pam LeBlanc/American-Statesman

 

I first stepped boot in Big Bend Ranch State Park, the largest and most rugged chunk of land in the Texas state park system, more than a decade ago.

Since then, I’ve shredded my calves and bloodied my shins during multi-day bike camping trips there, worn out my legs on endurance trail runs through its canyons, and camped in its scrappy arms under some of the biggest skies I’ve ever seen. It’s one of my favorite places on the planet, and I’ve got the scars to prove it.

This November, park officials and fans will celebrate 10 years since its unveiling with a Fiesta, and the public is invited.

But first, some history.

Chris LeBlanc takes a break during a hike at Big Bend Ranch State Park in January 2018. Pam LeBlanc photo

The park, with more than 300,000 acres of hard-scrabble land in the form of mesas, canyons and a collapsed and eroded volcanic dome that stretches 10 miles across, operated as a working ranch starting in 1905. The Texas Parks and Wildlife Department bought the land in 1988, and a park opened on a limited basis in 1991. It was hard to access and largely undeveloped, though, and the gate was kept mostly padlocked. Starting in 2005, the parks department began developing a public use plan, and in 2009 a Fiesta was held to introduce the park to the public. (The bash was delayed twice – once due to flooding, a second time because of the swine flu outbreak.)

Dan Sholly, then the deputy director of state parks, invited me out for a look see, and I’ve been hooked ever since.

Pam LeBlanc pauses to freak out during a solo ride at Big Bend Ranch State Park in January 2018. Pam LeBlanc photo

In the ensuing years, I joined Sholly to bomb down rocky inclines on a knobby-tired bikes, launch myself face first into a cactus plant and stagger out of a tent a few inches from a huge – and I mean huge – tarantula. I’ve crossed the finish line of the Big Bend Ultra there several times, and just last January spent a chilly night as a cold front whipped through.

It’s a special place. Cyclists appreciate its rolling single track and old Jeep roads. The International Mountain Bicycling Association’s named the park’s Fresno-Sauceda Loop Trail one of its “epic” mountain bike rides.

The rough-and-tumble trails draw adventurous runners and hikers, too, and it’s a history buff’s paradise. You can explore remnants of the park’s ranching and mining history, see crumbling ranch structures, ogle rock art created by Native Americans or cool off by dunking your head in a back country stock tank.

The lunar landscape bristles with prickly plants and tarantulas, bowling ball-sized rocks and abandoned mines. To me, it feels like the last vestiges of the Old West, with more than 50 campsites so remote you can’t see – or hear – another soul when you’re there.

Chris LeBlanc hikes up at creek at Big Bend Ranch State Park in January 2018. Pam LeBlanc photo

You should make plans to attend the party, thrown by the Compadres del Rancho Grande & Big Bend Ranch State Park and the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department. The Fiesta is set for 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Nov. 3 at the park’s Sauceda headquarters.

Stay tuned for more information.

And if you haven’t visited the place, consider this a good excuse to go. Experts will be on hand to lead hikes and tell you more about its secrets. I’ll be there too, getting another dose of the wide open space that makes me breathe deep and smile.

It’s unforgiving and harsh, but soft and gentle, too. It’s Texas, through and through.

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For a leisurely paddle with a chicken kicker, try the Llano River near Castell

For a leisurely paddle with a chicken kicker, try the Llano River near Castell

Chris LeBlanc drains water out of our canoe midway through a paddle on the Llano River near Castell. Pam LeBlanc photo

Two weeks after the Texas Water Safari, I got back in a canoe – but this time I didn’t care how fast I paddled or how far I went.

I didn’t see any alligators, I didn’t hallucinate, I didn’t even have to crawl over giant bobbing mats of logs, branches, dead farm animals and palm-sized spiders, either.

My husband Chris and I just lazily paddled our wide, roomy aluminum canoe 12 easy miles down the Llano River, from Highway 87 to Castell. We flopped in the water to cool off, admired the birds (cardinals, blue herons, hawks and blue jays) and paused on gravel bars to snack on fresh cherries and drink lemonade. We finished by eating a smoked chicken on a picnic table outside the Castell General Store.

It felt great.

Chris LeBlanc positions our canoe after a shallow stretch on the Llano River near Castell on June 23, 2019. Pam LeBlanc photo

Pam LeBlanc enjoys not paddling hard during a lazy trip on the Llano River on June 23, 2019. Chris LeBlanc photo

The river spooled out like a greenish-gray ribbon, wide and languid at times, twisted and churning at others. Sections reminded us of minefields, with so many boulders, many of them hidden just beneath the surface (at cfs 161) that we couldn’t see them until we slammed into them. Our canoe now boasts dimples and crinkles, like a smiling old man who spent his life in the beating sun.

The most challenging portion of the run came just before Castell. We had to walk our canoe through a series of rocky rapids. I smashed my shins nicely, and the water threatened to drag us downstream.

Chris LeBlanc submerges himself during a break in a paddling trip on the Llano River on June 23, 2019. Pam LeBlanc photo

Looking for a leisurely paddle trip? The Llano River might fit the bill, but if you go, I’ve got some recommendations.

  1. Consider paddling plastic kayaks instead of a canoe. The river is rocky and braided in this stretch, and we put some impressive dings in our metal canoe.
  2. Bring lots of water. This stretch of river will take you longer to paddle than you think. I’m used to a 5 mile per hour pace on the San Marcos; here we averaged closer to 2.5 to 3 miles per hour, because we had to get out and drag a lot. Plus, we were in no rush.
  3. Use dry bags. You might flip your boat. Seriously. Secure cell phones, cameras, food – anything you don’t want doused in river water – inside a watertight bag.
  4. Relax! Sit back and enjoy the scenery. It’s beautiful, and even on a Sunday we saw just one other boat.
  5. Arrange a shuttle. We left our truck at the Highway 87 underpass at the river, then arranged to have someone drive us back to pick it up when we finished.
  6. Bring personal flotation devices. You’ll encounter rapids and fast moving water, and you never know when you could knock your head on a rock or get caught by a tree branch.
  7. Don’t trash the river. Carry out what you brought in. Even better, carry out trash you find along the way and leave the river cleaner than when you found it.
  8. Want chicken at the finish? Call Randy at The Castell General Store in the morning and ask him to reserve one, otherwise they’ll probably be sold out.

Chris LeBlanc ate half a smoked chicken at the Castell General Store after paddling 12 miles on the Llano River. Pam LeBlanc photo

Chris LeBlanc refuels with smoked chicken. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

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Aerial surfing competition comes to Central Texas

Aerial surfing competition comes to Central Texas

 

BSR Surf Park will host an aerial competition on June 29. Photo courtesy Stab High

The world’s top aerial surfers will gather in Central Texas this month for Stab High, a surfing competition.

Chippa Wilson, Noa Deane, Dion Agius, Nathan Florence, Eithan Osborne, Mason Ho and others will demonstrate their skills on a man-made wave at the BSR Surf Resort, just north of Waco. They’ll be vying for a $25,000 winner-takes-all purse.

This year’s event will include a Ladybirds Division for 15-and-under female surfers, and something called the Vans Acid Drop, in which surfers will try to jump from the top of the wavepool’s 12-foot concrete wall straight onto a wave. 

“There’s so much new energy in surfing and skating now,” said Scott Sisamis, Vans’ director of sports marketing. “It’s our job to set the stage and offer these unique opportunities to everyone.” 

Doors open at 10 a.m., surfing starts at 3 p.m. and music ends at 11 p.m. General admission tickets are $41.50; children 12 and under are free. VIP tickets are $175 and include free food, drink and access to the VIP deck. (Tickets can be purchased here.)

Can’t make it in person? StabHigh.com will stream the action via a live webcast.

Surfers will compete for a $25,000 winner-take-all purse. Photo courtesy Stab High

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I can’t believe how long it takes to recover from the Texas Water Safari

I can’t believe how long it takes to recover from the Texas Water Safari

Pam LeBlanc nibbles cold tangerine slices a few minutes after finishing the 2019 Texas Water Safari. Photo by Chris LeBlanc

The rash has mostly disappeared from my butt, and the blisters are peeling from my fingers and palms. Nearly two weeks out from the start of the Texas Water Safari, I’m finally feeling human again.

Holy guacamole. I underestimated the recovery period for an ultra-endurance paddling race.

The Safari, billed as “the World’s Toughest Canoe Race,” started June 8 in San Marcos. Nearly 180 boats lined up at Spring Lake, then started paddling 260 miles down the San Marcos and Guadalupe rivers toward Seadrift on the Texas coast. It took my team of three – veteran paddlers Heather Harrison and Sheila Reiter and me – a little more than 53 hours to finish.

Truly, I had no idea it would take so long to feel normal again. But it turns out that sleep deprivation (we didn’t snooze along the way, so were awake about 56 hours straight) and non-stop paddling do weird things to your body.

Adrenaline got me up last Tuesday, the day after the race, for the banquet and awards ceremony, but after that I slept – a lot. I had to go to New Orleans for a wedding, and my husband drove while I slept most of the way there and most of the way back. Most of my sleep has been zombie like, but for the past four days I’ve popped awake in the wee hours, dreaming that I was still paddling down a dark tunnel of river.

The weird wrinkly skin on my feet smoothed out in a day. I’ve got splotches of poison ivy and strips of sunburned skin around my ankles and on my hands. The tips of my ears peeled. My shoulders are still exhausted. I returned to regular swim practice this week, but I’m slow and feeble, which has been frustrating.

If you look closely, you can see the wrinkly state of my feet. Like staying in a pool too long. Photo by Chris LeBlanc

I’m mentally exhausted, too. The moment after I climbed the steps at the finish, I told my husband, “I’m never doing that again.”

But the mind is funny. At first, I could only remember the bad parts – the heat index of 110, the nausea that coursed through my body at the sight of a cold piece of bacon wrapped in a tortilla and shoved in a baggie, the trees that morphed into leering cartoon characters, the way my ass felt like I was sitting on broken glass, peeing in a moving canoe for the umpteenth time, the mental lows and grumpiness that swept over our team at times and the feeling that all I wanted was to get off that damn boat.

But my brain has already started its editing job. I keep wondering how we could have done better if I hadn’t gotten sick, or if I’d eaten different food, or taken more electrolyte caplets. I want to know how it would feel to race on a bigger boat, with a team of four or five. I liked the almost feral feeling I got from paddling down a river, clambering up and over muddy banks like a wild animal, and dragging the boat through mats of bobbing logs.

Honestly, I need more time to process what just happened. And maybe another nap.

 

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Premiere set for film about paddling Lower Canyons of Rio Grande

Premiere set for film about paddling Lower Canyons of Rio Grande

Carl Crum’s documentary about the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande will premiere June 22 in Alpine. Photo contributed by Bravo y Grande.

Ever wonder what it would be like to paddle the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande?

An hour-long documentary about the Lower Canyons of the river south of Big Bend National Park will premiere later this month in Alpine. The film, created by Carl Crum and narrated by Butch Hancock, takes viewers along as a small group of river guides, scientists, locals and park officials travel 83 miles of the river to celebrate the 50thanniversary of the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act.

“The Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River may well be the least-known national park unit in the lower 48,” says Big Bend National Park superintendent and trip participant Bob Krumenaker. “Few people will ever visit, as it’s incredibly remote, lacking infrastructure and help is awfully far away. But that’s also what makes it amazing.”

Watch a trailer of the film here: <iframe src=”https://player.vimeo.com/video/321819771?color=ffffff&title=0&byline=0&portrait=0” width=”640″ height=”360″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p><a href=”https://vimeo.com/321819771“>Bravo Y Grande (trailer)</a> from <a href=”https://vimeo.com/brazosfilms“>Brazos Film &amp; Video</a> on <a href=”https://vimeo.com“>Vimeo</a>.</p>

“Bravo y Grande” will screen at 2 p.m. June 22 at the Rangra Theater in Alpine. A reception will follow at Ritchey Wine Saloon and Beer Garden. Movie tickets are $15 in advance at www.bigbendbookstore.orgor by calling 432-477-2236. For more information and a trailer go to www.bravoygrandefilm.org.

I got a taste of the Rio Grande a three-day rafting trip from Rio Grande Village to La Linda last fall. Read more about that trip at https://www.austin360.com/entertainmentlife/20181218/rafting-rio-grande.

About Pam

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