I can’t swim, bike or run for 10 days, and it’s making me crazy

I can’t swim, bike or run for 10 days, and it’s making me crazy

Behold the Frankenstein-esque strip of stitches on the back of my leg. Self portrait.

Happy Halloween!

For eight straight days now, I’ve been forced to skip swim practice. I’m not allowed to run or bike, and the doctor tells me even brisk walking is out of the question.

A few weeks ago, a biopsy showed “abnormal cells” in a suspicious spot on the back of my calf. Last week, my dermatologist excised the patch, and left a Frankenstein slice held together with seven exterior stitches and a host of subcutaneous ones.

My prescription? No strain on that leg for 10 to 12 days.

I’m lucky the doctors found the spot. I’m from the generation that slathered up with baby oil and spent hours baking in the sun every summer. To make it worse, a few years had passed since my last skin scan. I’m grateful things aren’t worse.

But….

I’m intolerable. Fire is raging in my belly, fitness is draining from my soul. I’m twitchy, ornery, impatient and incredulous that anyone can live an existence that’s primarily sedentary. And in the back of my mind, a tiny voice is peeping out thoughts like “This is how it starts, you’ll never exercise again,” and “Your days of fitness are numbered, Chica.”

I’m used to waking up at 6 a.m. five days a week to make swim practice. I bike and run regularly, too, and spice things up by crawling through caves, water skiing, hiking and more. But suddenly it’s gotten easy to sleep in. What if I can’t get back to my routine?

This morning, I nearly cried when I found out Halloween swim practice involved swimming laps while clutching tiny pumpkins. (I missed that? No!) I missed an early morning run in the briskness of the first cold front of the season. I don’t do well sitting at my computer with my stitched-up leg elevated next to me.

All this might not sound bad to you, but ask my husband and he’ll tell you: It’s been hell.

It’s sucked for me, too.

But sunshine looms ahead. I’m hitting the road for five days starting tomorrow, and I get to remove my own sutures on Saturday. That’ll be cool – I’ve never cut my own stitches out, so yay adventure – and when those are gone, I’m legal to climb back in the saddle.

Which is good, because the weekend agenda includes, among other things, horseback riding in southern Utah.

 

 

 

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New atlas of national parks might inspire your next trip

New atlas of national parks might inspire your next trip

Jonathan Waterman’s “Atlas of the National Parks” includes details about all 61 of America’s national parks. Photo courtesy National Geographic

Backpacking beneath tongues of ice at Glacier National Park. Paddling the café au lait-colored water of the Rio Grande through Big Bend National Park. Watching a herd of elk wade across a river at Yellowstone National Park.

Our national parks serve up some of our country’s most amazing outdoor experiences, and a new book by Jon Waterman wraps them up into a 432-page compilation of photos, maps, informational graphics and well-researched text.

“Atlas of the National Parks: An Inside Look at the Beauty That Drives More than 330 Million Visitors to America’s Parks Each Year” covers a bit of general history, geology and changing climate before taking a deep dive into 32 of our country’s most unique national parks. The other 29 get more abbreviated treatment, but the result is a book that’ll push you to make your own tally of which ones you’ve already visited and which you still want to see next.

It also does something infinitely more important – it recognizes the importance of the country’s remaining wild places, and reminds you why we need to do everything we can to protect them.

“It was a massive research project,” Waterman says of the year and a half he spent working on the atlas. He didn’t visit every park before finishing – that would have taken half a dozen years, he says – but he has visited most of them. He also worked as a back country ranger at Rocky Mountain National Park and as a mountaineering ranger at Denali. Today he lives in Carbondale, Colo.

“Nothing like this has ever been done before,” Waterman says of the book, which reflects the close relationship between the National Park Service and National Geographic. “In the early days, National Geographic was a huge advocate for the creation of national parks and repeatedly would issue special editions of the magazine in order to get members of Congress to vote in new ones.”

This time around, National Geographic worked closely with the park service to create new maps and gather some of the best photographs ever taken of them for Waterman’s atlas, an over-sized, glossy-paged hulk of a book.

“It’s filled with more than 200 maps and 300 photographs,” he says. “The maps are styled with the National Geographic flourish and it would be hard to pull together a better collection of images.”

He points to the section about Yellowstone National Park, which includes a stunning aerial shot of Grand Prismatic Spring, and, on the opposite page, a graphic cutaway of beneath-the-ground features of the caldera.

The book is packed with maps, illustrations and photographs.

“We took great trouble to use all the tools available to show the yin and yang of these parks, from mountaintop to thousands of feet under the ground,” Waterman says.

The book is organized by region, and includes information about each park’s wildlife, climate, culture, archeology and recreational offerings. It’s packed with cool factoids, too, like which park is the oldest – Yellowstone, created in 1872 – and which has the deepest lake – Crater Lake. The most visited of the 61 national parks? Great Smoky Mountains, which saw 11.4 million visitors in 2018. The one with the most endangered species? Haleakala in Hawaii.

The two parks that top Waterman’s “want to visit” list are familiar to many Texas residents – Guadalupe Mountains National Park, one of the least-visited parks in the system, and Big Bend National Park, the sprawling, 1,252-square-mile behemoth in Far West Texas.

“I’m curious about the Rio Grande,” Waterman says. “I’d like to paddle it through the national park, and I love the idea of a park that comprises an international border.”

Besides the national parks, the atlas lists every national park unit, from battlefield to lakeshore, preserve, monument, river, trail and more. That list stretches five pages and hundreds of entries.

Taken as a whole, the book will make you want to pack your tent, ice down the cooler and point yourself toward the nearest national park.

“Now more than ever before, as the world becomes smaller and smaller, these parks are islands of refuge for any number of species that are crushed by a lack of habitat,” Waterman says. “We need these parks because they protect the flora and fauna and give us the opportunity to connect with wildness, and those opportunities are fading fast.”

It’ll also make you want to fight for their survival.

“I think there’s a higher ideal expressed by national parks, it’s an ideal about our democracy. We created these parks to preserve them and the resources and scenery and waterscapes for eternity, but at the same time to leave them open for all. That’s part of the paradox. Many of these parks are so popular it’s hard to control the crowds. The way we move with these parks in future tells a lot about us as a nation.”

The book, which costs $65, is available for pre-order here. It hits book stores on Nov. 19.

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Documentary recounts marathon swimmer’s attempt to cross seven dangerous channels

Documentary recounts marathon swimmer’s attempt to cross seven dangerous channels

In 2016, Beth French attempted to cross seven treacherous channels around the world. Photo courtesy “Against the Tides”

Imagine wading into an ocean in the thick of night, feeling cold swirls of water against your body, looking into the black murk and not knowing what awaits.

In 2016, British marathon swimmer Beth French did just that, as she slipped into the Pacific Ocean off of Catalina Island on her quest to swim seven of the world’s most dangerous ocean channels.

At the time, just six other people had completed what in the swimming world is called the Oceans Seven. French planned to do it in a single year.

“Against the Tides,” a feature-length documentary film by director Stefan Stuckert, recounts the adventure, which begins as the story of an athlete who faced bouts of chronic fatigue syndrome so severe she used a wheelchair as a teen-ager, but flows into a story about a single mom trying to raise her autistic son the best way she can.

The film’s lush cinematography puts the viewer right in the water next to French. Photo courtesy “Against the Tides”

The film made its North American premiere Friday in Austin as part of the Austin Film Festival. A second screening is set for 1 p.m. Monday at the Alamo Drafthouse Village on Anderson Lane.

French, who comes across as a driven athlete who won’t let anything stand in the way of her quest, took five years to prepare for her attempt. She and her team scheduled swims across the North Channel from Ireland to Scotland, the Catalina Channel to the coast of California, the Molokai Channel in Hawaii, Cook Strait between the North and South islands of New Zealand, the Strait of Gibralter, Tsugaru Strait in Japan, and the English Channel.

Along the way, she knew she’d face threats from water cold enough to knock a swimmer unconscious, unrelenting currents, sharks, stinging jellyfish and fatigue. She invested tens of thousands of dollars in the effort, and enlisted the support of hundreds of supporters. She explains, on camera, that she’s taking on the challenge to set an example for her autistic son. The swims vary in length and duration, but the Catalina crossing took more than 19 hours, and pushed French to the brink of exhaustion. The relatively warm, clear waters of Hawaii might seem like a relief after that, but a tiger shark swirled directly underneath her at one point during that crossing. In New Zealand French had to dodge huge, high-speed ferry boats, and during the entire project she faced conflict with her support team and a constant mental battle over whether her swim challenge was negatively affecting her relationship with her son, who has autism.

“It’s been my dream year and my hell year,” French says at one point during the film. “Swimming’s always been the easy part.”

The film made its North American premiere at the Austin Film Festival. Photo courtesy “Against the Tides”

Stuckert, the director, and cinematographer Damian Paul Daniel answered a few questions after the screening. (Stucker will also participate in the Indie Film Track Panel on Documentary Storytelling at 11:30 a.m. Sunday in the assembly room at the Intercontinental Stephen F. Austin, 701 Congress Avenue.)

Stuckert says he knew immediately when he met French that he had a feature-length film on his hands. A mutual friend introduced the two.

“I remember the door opening and a pillow coming straight at my face,” Stuckert says. Beth and her son were in the midst of a pillow fight.

French never regretted what she did, Stuckert told the audience, and is now focusing her time and energy on making sure her son gets a good education.

Stukert spent four years making the film, which premiered in the UK last year. He and Daniel, the cinematographer, captured more than 800 hours of footage, much of it of French swimming, taken from vantage points high overhead, far below and right next to her as she chugged through the water. It’s visually beautiful, and puts the film viewer right in the water next to French and her bright yellow swim cap.

But if you think you know how “Against the Tides” ends, you might be surprised. A ripple went through our audience as the plot shifted, swept away on a new current.

That change reflects the real plot of the film, which isn’t so much about swimming as it is about life, motherhood and relationships.

The plot twist also caused some sponsors to cancel their financial support, and – at the time – made Stuckert think he had a weaker film.

He was wrong.

In the film, swimmer Beth French says she’s completely in her element when she’s in the water. Photo courtesy “Against the Tides”

For more information about the Austin Film Festival, which continues through Oct. 31, go to https://austinfilmfestival.com. For more information about the film, go to www.againstthetidesfilm.com.

 

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The glamorous life of a freelance adventure writer

The glamorous life of a freelance adventure writer

Colton Moore ascends out of Punkin Cave on Oct. 23, 2019, in a cloud of dust and bat guano. Photo by Pam LeBlanc

People ask me all the time about my life as a freelance adventure writer, thinking, perhaps, that I’ll describe a glamorous life of swanky hotel rooms, gourmet meals and international travel.

While I’ll readily agree I’ve got the best job in the world, I’m more often wiping blood off my elbows, shoving energy bars in my mouth as I bounce down a desolate ranch road in the middle of Nowhere, Texas, or pitching a tent in the desert than hopping a jet to an exotic island.

For fun some days, I assess how much my latest adventure has cost me in clothing, vehicle and skin damage.

Take this week, for example.

I crawled face-first into a cloud of bats. One crawled up my pants leg. Pam LeBlanc photo

A caving assignment for a state-wide magazine led me to a preserve near Carta Valley (not far from Del Rio), where freelance photographer Erich Schlegel and I spent two days crawling through the underbelly of the earth with one of the state’s finest cavers.

We rappelled 45 feet down into a pit. We dove down dark, scorpion-populated tunnels. I narrowly avoided plunging my hand into the half-decayed body of a raccoon. I admired webs of what looked like delicate vermicelli – only to find out it was fungus growing out of bullet-sized bits of porcupine poop.

Most exciting of all, I scrambled over mounds of bat guano and face first into a cloud of bats. A few dozen smacked me on the arm and head, and one fuzzy, fig-sized individual snuck its way up my pants leg.

See that gaping hole in the front? I did that caving this week. Adventuring is hard on clothing.

Before the five-hour crawl wrapped up, I’d ripped a hole as big as my face in the front of my shirt. (It’ll go great with the palm-sized hole I ripped in the seat of my pants two weeks ago on another assignment.) I was covered with shit from assorted creatures, and polka-dotted with quarter-sized bruises from whacking my body parts on knobs of rock.

Then, while driving back to the cabin from the caves, our parade of two vehicles hit a boulder-strewn rocky ledge. The vehicle in front of us got temporarily hung up. Its tires spun, the vehicle rocked back and forth a few times, then suddenly broke free, firing a barrage of baseball-sized rocks into the air. One smashed the corner of my truck’s windshield and punched a hole in the roof.

Whoa, and thank goodness for shatter-resistant glass. The body shop reports the damage at $4,000.

Was it worth it? Totally.

I’m beyond thrilled that I’ve made a life out of backpacking, snow skiing, camping, caving, scuba diving, hiking, paddling and more.

Just don’t confuse it for a life of luxury.

 

 

 

 

About Pam

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Can peppermint panties really keep an athlete dry and odor free?

Can peppermint panties really keep an athlete dry and odor free?

I’m test driving Jumper Undies, which are made with peppermint leaves. Pam LeBlanc photo

I discovered the perfect underwear about 10 years ago – Patagonia Active Hipsters – and never felt the need to look or buy anything different ever again. They’re soft, seamless, sexy and last for years.

I bought a few dozen, unpacked them and never thought about it again – until this week, when a trio of underpants made with peppermint leaf and eucalyptus fibers landed in my mailbox.

What? That sounds, um, scratchy? Or decidedly non-durable. Also, would they make my sensitive skin tingle (in a bad way)?

Jumper Threads has just unveiled Jumper Undies, made with fabric containing 35 percent peppermint leaf fiber that, the company says, naturally fights odor. Even better, peppermint plant grows quickly and easily, so they seem like a nice sustainable option for people (like me) who obsess over that stuff. (Reduce! Reuse! Recycle!)

I didn’t notice any uncomfortable tingling upon first wearing, but I did notice a few other things. The fabric itself is really soft, but I don’t like the narrow elastic waistband. My Patagonia panties don’t have a separate waistband, they’re just one seamless piece. I do like the back mesh panel in the Jumper Undies, which helps keep me cool even when I’m running or biking. And I really like the ruching, which snugs the bottoms nicely to my cheeks.

Does the no-odor stuff really work? I’ll get back to you on that one. One thing I do know is they don’t smell like peppermint or eucalyptus.

They sell for $16 a pair at www.jumperthreads.com.

 

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

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