Burn off pre-election stress with a spin on the Slaughter Creek Trails

Burn off pre-election stress with a spin on the Slaughter Creek Trails

Pam LeBlanc navigates a tricky section of the Slaughter Creek Preserve Trail on Halloween morning. Chris LeBlanc photo

I’m so stressed out with election anxiety that I can’t sit still. (OK, so that’s me pretty much every day.)
This Halloween morning, to burn off some of the heebie jeebies, my husband and I loaded up our bikes and headed to our favorite Austin area mountain biking destination – the Slaughter Creek Preserve in South Austin, where a 5-mile single-track loop serves up stair-steppy drops, rock gardens and flowy, rolling inclines.

Chris LeBlanc rolls down a ledge at Slaughter Creek Preserve. Pam LeBlanc photo

It’s moderate terrain that challenges my intermediate skills but (with a little luck) won’t leave me with a snapped collarbone or one less tooth. It’s not as technical as the twisty, ledgy terrain you’ll find on parts of the Barton Creek Greenbelt or Emma Long Metropolitan Park, and it doesn’t attract the big crowds of Walnut Creek Metropolitan Park.
Plus, you don’t need reservations to ride here, as you do at state parks these pandemic-stricken days. And it’s free.

Bikes go clockwise, horses and pedestrians go counter clockwise on the 5-mile loop. Chris LeBlanc photo


We made two loops of the circuit this morning. The multi-use trail cuts through a 100-acre swath of land owned by the city of Austin and set aside to protect water quality. (Cyclists ride clockwise; hikers and equestrians head counter-clockwise. Cyclists should dismount and pull off to avoid startling horses.)
Confession: About five years ago, I busted my ass on a rocky incline near the start of the trail. I wound up at the minor emergency center with a thoroughly bashed shin and elbow, but it didn’t kill my will to ride Slaughter. And today – for the first time ever – I made it through the tricky section where I crashed without so much as dabbing a foot on the ground. Progress!
The trail is doable for beginner and intermediate-level cyclists. I’ve made it through every obstacle on the loop, but I’ve never made an entire loop without at least putting a foot down to catch my balance at least once.
Not up for the entire loop? You can take a cut-off trial that trims about 2 miles off the circuit and still includes the highlights.
The trail is open from dawn to dusk daily, but closes after rain to prevent erosion.(Check here for closure information.) You have to drive through an automatic gate to get to the parking lot and trailhead, which is next to the old Trautwein homestead at 9901 Farm-to-Market 1826.

Pam rides down a slope on the Slaughter Creek Trail on Halloween morning. Chris LeBlanc photo

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Taste testing PackIt Gourmet and a one-night backpacking escape

Taste testing PackIt Gourmet and a one-night backpacking escape

Chris LeBlanc measures water for a PackIt Gourmet Meal. Pam LeBlanc photo


This week’s mid-week, emergency, got-to-take-a-break from the politics and bad news before my head explodes mini-backpacking trip to Pedernales Falls State Park did more than sooth my frazzled nerves.
It gave me a chance to check out the primitive, walk-in sites at the park, and it allowed me to taste test a couple of new entrees from PackIt Gourmet. (Full disclosure: I love the Austin-based dehydrated meal maker so much that I called them and asked if I could be a sort of ambassador for them. They agreed and gave me some food to try!)
First, the park. I’ve camped, swum, biked and hiked at Pedernales Falls dozens of times, dating back to when I was a kid and, according to family lore, I ran across water when I spotted a snake in the river. I love exploring the falls, where the river slides over a huge rock slab and twists through intricately cut channels, and I also love the swimming area, especially when a light rain is falling and no one else is there. The park has some great mountain biking trails and equestrian trails too.
Lately, though, it’s gotten tricky to get passes or camping permits for the main campground. I’ve found it’s much easier to nab a spot in the primitive camping area off the Wolf Mountain Trail. I got a spot on a Wednesday night, and although we saw one other guy pass through with a pack on his back, we didn’t see anyone camping around us.
When you register for a backcountry site, you have to pick a site number. When you get to the area, though, it’s just an area – no designated sites are marked. It’s easy to see where people have pitched tents before. Just put your tent in one of those spots, to avoid impacting any more of the environment.
We arrived at the park at about 4:30 p.m., dropped by headquarters to check in (make reservations online in advance), and hiked up the gravel road to reach the campground. It’s wide and undulating; easy to navigate.
This is a great spot for beginners to practice backpacking skills or experienced backpackers to shake out new gear.
We popped up our tent (a Big Agnes Copper Spur), set up our folding chairs (Helinox), pulled our BRS 3000 stove (the size of a cigarette lighter!), and heated water for dinner. (We also poured a glass of wine, which helped with the stress overload.)

I tested these two meals from PackIt Gourmet. Pam LeBlanc photo


Chris LeBlanc boils pasta in a cooking pot. Pam LeBlanc photo


I fell in love with PackIt Gourmet’s food after writing about the company for the Austin American-Statesman a few years ago. (Read the story at https://www.statesman.com/NEWS/20161208/Austin-based-Packit-Gourmet-makes-meals-fit-for-the-back-country).
Sarah Welton had grown up camping with her family, and her mother, Debbie Mullins, prepared meals using food she dehydrated at home. When Welton got older, she didn’t like any of the freeze-dried meals on the market for backpackers. The two got together and came up with their own.
Really, it’s the Texas State Fair Chili that did it for me. It tastes just like the real deal, with ground beef and kidney beans, and even packets of corn chips and Monterey jack cheese to sprinkle on top.
Dottie’s Chicken and Dumplings sealed the deal, and I love the West Memphis Grits and Santa Fe Corn Pudding for breakfast. The Poblano Corn Chowder gets high ratings from me, too.
But the menu is long at www.packetgourmet.com, and I wanted to sample some of the other offerings. My husband and I stuffed a package of pasta beef Bolognese and a package of Shepherd’s Cottage Pie in our packs to try.
I give the Shepherd’s Cottage Pie a huge thumbs up, although it’s a two-step meal. You have to prepare the packet of mashed potatoes separately from the veggie stew stuff, then use a spoon to scoop dollops of the potatoes into the stew. Totally worth the ever-so-slight hassle.
The pasta was OK, but not worth the trouble for me. You make the sauce in one envelope, then cook the noodles in another with a squirt of olive oil (provided), then mix the two together and cook – which dirties the pot. (I like to eat my meals out of their packaging and keep the pot for heating water or drinking coffee or tea.) The kit came with a packet of parmesan cheese for sprinkling, too.

Chris LeBlanc enjoys some pasta while camping at Pedernales Falls State Park this week. Pam LeBlanc photo


PackIt Gourmet also sells groceries – everything from dried apples or ground beef to bell peppers, mushrooms, cheese, okra, beans and condiments – that you can use to make your own meals.
Temperatures fell to the 40s that night, just right for sleeping in a tent. Coyotes serenaded us. We got up early, made coffee and tea, then hiked out just as the sun started to warm the day.
The mid-week mini-backpacking trip worked its magic. Although I was gone for less than 24 hours, and back at my computer by 10:30 a.m., I felt happier, more productive and grounded.

Chris LeBlanc attaches a tiny camp stove to a can of isobutane fuel. Pam LeBlanc photo

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Billy the Kid, a cool mercantile and tortilla soup: A day trip to Hico, Texas

Billy the Kid, a cool mercantile and tortilla soup: A day trip to Hico, Texas

I’m in Hico! Marcy Stellfox photo


I wandered up to Hico last weekend, and discovered a town with its own Billy the Kid legend – plus cool murals painted on old brick buildings, shops peddling Western-themed merchandise, and a restaurant that serves dang good tortilla soup.
My friend Marcy lives near Blanco. She got stir crazy and invited me to make the two-and- a-half hour drive from her place in the country to Hico, which is located between Stephenville and Killeen. Since I’ve recently become obsessed with small Texas towns (I ventured to Sanderson a few weeks ago, then stumbled upon Rock Springs the other day), I immediately agreed to go.
We rolled into Hico just before noon, and settled in for lunch at Jersey Lilly’s Mexican Restaurant. Quesadillas, check. Tortilla soup, check. All good.
You might recall that Judge Roy Bean, who doled out law west of the Pecos, named his saloon the Jersey Lily after the famous British actress and socialite Lillie Langtry, who was born in 1853. (You can check out Bean’s old digs in another cool Texas town, Langtry, in Val Verde County west of Del Rio.)

Several murals are painting on the side of buildings in the historic district. Pam LeBlanc photo


We wandered into a couple of shops, our masks firmly in place. (Masks are not widely worn in Hico, although someone tied a red bandana around the statue of Billy the Kid at one end of town).
Hico reminds me a bit of Fredericksburg, circa about 1985. It’s a good place to buy vintage posters advertising old-timey rodeos, etched wine glasses, brass fixtures, straw hats, throw blankets, cowboy boots, ruffly clothing, humorous wooden signs, embroidered pillows, candles that smell like cowboys, paintings of cattle, and other stuff perfect for the country cabin you wish you owned.
The sides of several buildings in town are painted with old advertisements for Dr Pepper and something called Hooper’s, a remedy used to treat itchy hands and feet.
I got distracted by the town lore. According to local legend, William H. Bonney – aka Billy the Kid – wasn’t killed in a shootout with Sheriff Pat Garrett in New Mexico. That was what you might call “fake news.” Instead, the story goes, he moved to Hico and went by the name Brushy Bill Roberts.
Roberts dropped dead on a downtown Hico sidewalk in 1950. A small museum now houses a small collection of artifacts.
That statue wearing a red bandana? A plaque says this: “(Kid) spent the last days of his life trying to prove to the world his true identity and obtain the pardon promised him by the governor of the state of New Mexico. We believe his story and pray to God for the forgiveness he solemnly asked for.”
Hico itself was originally located 2.5 miles down the road, on Honey Creek. When the Katy Railroad was built, the residents moved the town so it would be conveniently located along the rail line. It incorporated in 1883 and became a cattle and cotton market.
The population in 2010 was 1,379 people, and today the town motto is “Where everybody is somebody.”
It’s known for Wiseman House chocolates (I didn’t make it there this time but it’s on my list), an old-school diner called the Koffee Kup that gets rave reviews for its strawberry pie and chicken fried steak, and fun-to-explore collection of shops that includes a hardware store, the Hico Mercantile and some high-end home goods shops. The historic Midland Hotel looks inviting.

She’s a wanted woman! Pam LeBlanc photo

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Butterflies and golden light: A fall run down the pristine Devils River

Butterflies and golden light: A fall run down the pristine Devils River

Steffen Saustrup and Cassandra blast through Sycamore Rapids near Game Warden Rock on the Devils River. Pam LeBlanc photo

I’ve paddled the Devils River twice before, but only in spring. This fall trip – with clouds of migrating butterflies and that familiar ribbon of turquoise set against a palette of gold – felt different.
First, the basics. I drove out with a small group of friends on a Monday. We stayed at Gerald Bailey’s place and hired him to shuttle us the two hours up to Bakers Crossing early Tuesday. From there we spent five leisurely days paddling our way 22 miles back to Devils River Outfitters headquarters. That gave us plenty of time to fish, swim and lollygag before pulling off the river and driving back home Saturday.

The sycamore trees along the shore were starting to turn gold. Pam LeBlanc photo


Jimmy Harvey and Marion Burch paddle the Devils River in October 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo


If you want to run the Devils, you’ve got two choices: Camp on islands along the way, as we did this time, or get a permit from Texas Parks and Wildlife Department to use designated paddle camps located along the shore. Either way, it’s important to protect the river, pack out everything that you bring in, and respect private property along the way. (Also, remember that you’re traveling in a remote area, without cell service and very limited access. Snap a leg or cut a gash in your arm and it’ll take hours to get out. That’s why we brought along our InReach satellite communications device, as well as first aid supplies.)
The rewards, if you make the trip, are huge.
As soon as we dropped our canoes in the water, the chaos of city life fell away. Instead of laptops, smart phones and automobiles, I fell into a world of paddle strokes, moving water and wildlife. Not long after we started, Jimmy Harvey reeled in (and subsequently released) the first fish. Half an hour later, a group of wild pigs swam across the river in front of us. And then, like leaves blowing across the road, the monarchs made their appearance.

Marion Burch naps in a hammock at camp on Night 1 of our five-day trip on the Devils River. Pam LeBlanc photo


We gave each other river names (my husband and I got Corndog and Spam, or Team Salty Pork for short), and settled in for days of navigating rapids, getting lost in reed mazes and judging the merits of each new teal-colored swimming hole. This river offers the best swimming on the planet, and I don’t say that lightly.
One of my favorite parts? Listening to Jimmy and Steffen tell stories about the weeks they spent here as kids, when Jimmy’s father held a lease on the river. They pointed out boulders they’d climbed 40 years ago, when they were sent out and told, “Don’t get hurt and bring back dinner.”
Unlike backpacking trips, when every ounce matters, canoes can haul heavier gear. We filled them with steaks and pork chops, homemade chile verde and sausage, and cooked up feasts on a Coleman stove every night.
We paddled through willows that shed a snowstorm of floating seed pods. We briefly swamped a boat or two, but didn’t break a single canoe this time, like I did on my last foray down the river in June. We napped on rocks in the sunshine, and hung hammocks in trees in the evening. We counted shooting stars when night fell, sipped hot tea and coffee as the sun rose, and listened to noisy kingfishers announce each new day. We dragged our boats around Dolan Falls, leaped off rocks into the churning water, and laughed until our bellies hurt.
I’m back home now, and my gear is stashed until next time. I’m pretty sure it won’t be that long.
The Devils keeps luring me back.

Jimmy Harvey cooks eggs for breakfast while camping on the Devils River. Pam LeBlanc photo

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YMCA launches virtual exercise programs

YMCA launches virtual exercise programs

The YMCA is launching a virtual workout program. Photo courtesy YMCA

With a pandemic raging, I’m not comfortable going to a gym right now. I’d rather ride my bike, go for a run or swim outdoors, where scientists say we have less risk of catching the virus that causes Covid-19. I’d rather not spend my time at an indoor gym, sharing exercise equipment and breathing space with other people.
But if you’re a dedicated gym rat, you’ve got options for sticking to a workout program.
The YMCA of Austin is launching a series of virtual fitness programs to help you stay fit from the comfort of your own home.
YMCA members can access more than 20 hours of live exercise classes each week, plus an on-demand library of hundreds of instructional fitness classes, at no extra cost. A stand-alone Virtual YMCA membership is also available for $25 per month.
Classes range from yoga, barre and tai chi to cardio fitness and high impact interval training, and are appropriate for all ages and abilities, according to a press release from the YMCA of Austin. The offerings include senior programs such as balance exercises and low-impact workouts for people with reduced mobility.
“On-demand fitness platforms are everywhere these days, but what sets the Virtual Y apart is the local, personal connection we can provide with our instructors, other participants and the community as a whole,” said James Finck, president and CEO of YMCA of Austin.
More virtual programming is in the works, including virtual personal training as well as youth and family options.
For more information go to https://www.austinymca.org/virtual-membership-now-available.

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