The Arctic Cowboys still plan to kayak the Northwest Passage in 2021 – if the Canadian government allows access

The Arctic Cowboys still plan to kayak the Northwest Passage in 2021 – if the Canadian government allows access

West Hansen, leader of the Arctic Cowboys expedition, paddles into the surf at Padre Island National Seashore on Aug. 23, 2019. Pam LeBlanc photo

The Arctic Cowboys, a trio of Austin-based paddlers, still hope to kayak the Northwest Passage this summer – if the Canadian government re-opens access to the remote region.

Expedition leader West Hansen, who paddled the entire Amazon River in 2012 and the entire Volga River in Russia two years later, will lead fellow paddlers Jimmy Harvey and Jeff Wueste through the 1,900-mile passage, which Is fraught with dangers like polar bears, shifting sea ice and storms.

For now, though, the pandemic tops his list of concerns.

“I’m not so worried about ice and weather – we’re worried about vaccination rollout,” Hansen said recently. He was held at gunpoint multiple times in the Amazon and didn’t let nuisances like injuries, narcotraffickers, refrigerator-sized boulders that rained over a cliff top, or jungle rot deter him.

Because Hansen works with elderly patients as a social worker, he has already been vaccinated against the virus. But the land border between the United States and Canada remains closed to Americans for non-essential travel, and Canadian officials recently extended a ban on foreign pleasure craft and cruise ships in all Canadian Arctic waters until February 2022, due to concerns about the spread of Covid-19. (You can read all the details at https://travel.gc.ca/travel-covid/travel-restrictions/border).

“Everything is kind of tenuous since we’re not allowed in Canada yet,” Hansen said. “The restrictions were extended in February until February 2022, but we know Canada is taking a lot of steps toward vaccinating the (native people in the Arctic region) and we’re making big changes here, so every few weeks the situation changes. We’re hoping that Canada, by summer, will loosen restrictions.”

Jimmy Harvey, West Hansen and Jeff Wueste, shown here after paddling the Colorado River in early 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

Hansen hasn’t determined yet which direction the team will make the roughly two-month trip, which the paddlers are funding themselves. That will depend on how quickly the ice breaks up as summer begins, and how soon the Canadian government allows foreigners into the sparsely populated Nunavut region in the Canadian Arctic Archipelago.

Hansen is also considering adding a fourth paddler to the kayak team. “If one person drops out before or during the expedition, it gives us more of a buffer,” Hansen said. “It’s such a desolate area that two people is not the safest way to go. To hedge our bets, we thought we’d aim for four.”

The team plans to launch the kayaks in late June or early July. That timing will determine whether they paddle east to west or west to east.

“It’ll depend on sea ice breakup and when we’re allowed to go up there,” Hansen said. “We can begin the expedition launch as late as mid- to late July.”

High temperatures in Tuktoyaktuk, at the western edge of the route Hansen plans to follow, average about 61 degrees in July. In Pond Inlet, to the east, they hover at about 52 degrees. But temperatures start dropping quickly in September and October, so if the team launches later in the summer, they’ll go from east to west, knocking out the colder stretches of the route first, before they freeze up.

Stay tuned to follow my live and independent coverage of the expedition as it unfolds.

 

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Wonder what Pam packs in her backpack for a night on the trail?

Wonder what Pam packs in her backpack for a night on the trail?

Pam LeBlanc’s backpack and contents for an overnight trip at Lake Somerville this week. Pam LeBlanc photo

Wonder what I stuff in my backpack before hitting the trail?

I unpacked my gear after a short overnight stay at a primitive site in the Nails Creek Unit at Lake Somerville State Park.

Here’s what I carried, starting at the top left and going by rows:

  1. Baseball cap
  2. Buff (borrowed from Joe)
  3. Sandals to wear in camp
  4. PJ pants and long-sleeved shirt
  5. Tent in orange bag (Big Agnes Copper Spur II)
  6. Gas, tiny campstove and pot for boiling water
  7. Osprey backpack
  8. Sleeping bag in black stuff sack
  9. Foam cushion for sitting
  10. Inflatable sleeping pad (Sea to Summit Etherlight XT)
  11. First aid kit
  12. Water bottle
  13. Platypus bag with water (on longer trips I bring a water filter system)
  14. Cosmetics bag with glasses, sunscreen, toothpaste and toothbrush
  15. Headlamp
  16. Sunglasses
  17. Ditty bag filled with snacks to clip around waist
  18. Freeze-dried meals (Austin-based PackIt Gourmet are my favorite)
  19. Titanium spoon

 

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Top 10 things to do in Telluride this winter

Top 10 things to do in Telluride this winter

Tom Watkinson takes a run at Telluride Ski Resort in March 2021. Pam LeBlanc photo

In the last 10 years, I’ve made it to Telluride, Colorado, tucked tight in the end of the prettiest box canyon in the state, at least six times. I always leave exhausted – days of downhill skiing, climbing frozen waterfalls, riding fat-tire bikes through the snow, zooming around on snowmobiles, and inching across a cabled climbing route called a via ferrata will do that.

Thinking about a trip? Here are my recommendations for things to do on your next visit to this classic ski town on the southwestern side of the state. (I’ve got a whole different list for summer.)

  1. The slopes. This one’s obvious, but it’s all about the skiing here. The resort spans more than 2,000 acres, with 19 lifts whisking skiers up those scenic peaks. The longest run stretches 4.6 miles, and from See Forever Run you can, well, see forever. Masks are required in lift lines.
  2. A drink. At the end of the ski day, grab a margarita (yes, I live in Texas and I just said that) at Gorrono Ranch on the mountain. Because of Covid, the resort has built a terraced outdoor patio out of snow, and it’s a perfect place to listen to live music and celebrate a day of conquering those black diamond runs. Take a peek inside the log cabin, once a sheep herder’s home and now a cozy bar warmed by a pot-bellied stove.

End your ski day with a drink at Gorrono Ranch on the mountain. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

Ride the free gondola from Mountain Village to Telluride to get this view. Pam LeBlanc photo

3. The gondola. Visitors can stay in the original town of Telluride, on the valley floor, or book a room in Mountain Village. Either way, it’s a free 15-minute gondola ride from one place to the other, and the night view of town lights sparkling far below alone are worth the trip.

4. Grab an old fashioned (or a bottle of bourbon) at the Telluride Distilling Company’s tasting room in Mountain Village. They make and sell their own vodka, schnapps and whiskey.

Ride a snowmobile to the ghost town of Alta. Pam LeBlanc photo

5. Ride a snowmobile to the ghost town of Alta at 11,800 feet, home of a couple hundred miners during the heyday of the Alta-Gold King area in the late 1800s. The old boarding house still stands. Telluride Outfitters offers tours.

6. Plan on dinner at There, a multi-course event that changes according to the chef’s whim. During my visit last week, the lineup included andouille mussels, tuna niçoise, wagyu beef tartar, roasted duck, seared lamb loin and Nutella semifreddo, a kind of frozen mousse. Yum.

 

The bear stands at the end of Colorado Ave. Pam LeBlanc photo

7. Stroll down East Colorado Avenue to get a glimpse of Ursa Ravus, a 15-foot sculpture of a waving bear made of 187,000 pennies.

8. Book a room at Lumiere with Inspirato in Mountain Village. I love the historic old New Sheridan Hotel and Hotel Telluride in town, but this trip I discovered a sweet new place to catch my Zs – the Lumiere with Inspirato in Mountain Village. It’s posh – my room had a kitchenette (and a basket full of bacon, eggs, fresh baked bread and fruit so I could cook breakfast in), a sitting area, balcony, giant cushy bed and access to an outdoor hot tub and a ski valet. Did I mention it’s ski in-ski out?

Skiers take a break for lunch on the mountain at Telluride. Pam LeBlanc photo 

9. Drop by the StrongHouse, even if you don’t feel like partaking in one of its fresh house brews (I like the honey ginger blonde ale). The brewery occupies a cool old stone building that dates to 1892 – and some pretty neat old photographs showing its early days.

10. One more restaurant recommendation – 221 South Oak, which this winter is offering a wine and pairing class that includes a box of ingredients to make a three-course pasta meal for two, plus three half bottles of wine, for just $100. It comes with an instructional (and fun!) video of how to cook it, starring my pal Tom Watkinson. Or just drop by for a meal in the heated yurt out back, and finish with a Flatliner, the coffee-infused signature drink of Telluride.

Telluride is located in a box canyon, so you get a great view no matter what direction you look. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pay a visit to the Telluride Penny Bear

Pay a visit to the Telluride Penny Bear

The bear stands at the end of Colorado Ave. Pam LeBlanc photo

While in Telluride this week, I walked down Colorado Avenue to pay a visit to Mr. Moneybags himself, Ursa Ravus.

The 15-foot sculpture of a bear, created by Lisa and Robert Ferguson, otherwise known as Mr & Mrs Ferguson Art, is built of 187,000 pennies embedded in concrete.

The bear’s innards are made of carved Styrofoam and steel tubing, and it took the Fergusons – Lisa is a cinematographer; Robert is a welder – four months to make. (They had help from a few assistants.)

The bear was made by Mr. and Mrs. Ferguson Art. Pam LeBlanc photo

The Penny Bear resides at the end of East Colorado Avenue, where it stands tall with one paw raised in greeting. Visitors are encouraged to admire and touch it. I’ve seen the giant bear before, but never with a sprinkling of snow on its fur.

The Fergusons have also created installations for Burning Man Festival and are making another penny bear for Google headquarters in Mountain View, California.

Judy and Steven Gluckstern commissioned the piece as public art in Telluride.

The 15-foot sculpture is made of 187,000 pennies. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

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