Ten best things about Mohonk Mountain House

Ten best things about Mohonk Mountain House

Mohonk Mountain House

Mohonk Mountain House is located 90 miles north of New York City in the Shawengunk Mountains. Pam LeBlanc photo

I always consider a few minor scrapes a sign of a good trip, and I returned from Mohonk Mountain House in Upstate New York on Friday with a nice one on my left shin.

The “ink,” as my mountain biking buddies would describe it, came compliments of some Shawangunk Conglomerate, a type of layered rock that forms the cliffs around Mohonk, a historic old resort near New Paltz, New York. I spent four days at the lodge, perched above a glacial-carved lake, where I scrambled through boulder fields, swam in that chilly lake, and made my way through a new via ferrata.

Here are the ten best things about my stay at the resort, located 90 miles north of New York City …

The setting. Mohonk Mountain House is tucked in pine-studded hills surrounding a half-mile long lake in the Shawangunk Mountains. Think “Dirty Dancing,” only fancier. You can wander 85 miles of trails on Mohonk’s 1,200 acres, or hike into the 8,000 acres of the surrounding preserve.

Mohonk Mountain House

More than 100 “summer houses,” or sheltered benches, are scattered across the Mohonk grounds. Pam LeBlanc photo

The summerhouses. Tiny wooden shelters called summerhouses, each with benches perfectly angled so whoever sits there takes in a spectacular view, are scattered across the property. Most have names. My favorite? Thurston’s Rock, located at the end of a narrow shaded path tucked in a shady alcove high above Mohonk Lake.

Mohonk Mountain House

A new via ferrata opened in May at Mohonk Mountain House in New York. Pam LeBlanc photo

The Via Ferrata. Just this May, Mohonk unveiled a new cabled climbing route, or via ferrata. Visitors buckle into harnesses, clip to a safety cable, and use metal rungs to traverse a half-mile route – and take in spectacular, above-the-treetop views of the wilderness as they go.

Mohonk Mountain House

The Labyrinth is a rock scrambling route at Mohonk Mountain House in Upstate New York. Pam LeBlanc photo

The Labyrinth. My last morning, I got up early and ventured into the Labyrinth, one of the resort’s classic rock scrambles. I channeled my inner gecko as I scampered over boulders, waddled up chimney-shaped formations and worked my way through a narrow passage called the Lemon Squeeze to the top of a ridgeline.

The lodge itself. A rambling and slightly mismatched mashup of buildings that has been added onto over the years, Mohonk Mountain House oozes character and cozy charm. My room overlooked the lake, and had its own fireplace, balcony and clawfoot tub.

Reading nooks. Half the fun of staying at Mohonk is tiptoeing down long carpeted hallways and discovering a collection of books and reading nooks around every corner.

Mohonk Lake

Guests can paddle, row or swim in Mohonk Lake. Pam LeBlanc photo

That lake. I’m a swimmer, and can’t resist leaping into any wild body of water. I spent some time down at the tiny beach, tucked in a hidden cove, but found my bliss with a dawn swim through swirling fog with the resort’s “endurance concierge.” Look closely and you might spot salamanders like I did.

Mohonk Mountain House

Darlene Fiske makes her way across an aerial bridge on the Ledges hike. Pam LeBlanc photo

The sky bridges. One day, I joined a group on a guided trip through the Pinnacle Ledge Tour, which starts with a scramble over armchair-sized boulders and into rock cervices, progresses into a ridgeline section (with a safety cable) where you tiptoe along a dropoff, and peaks with a white-knuckle trot across a teeny tiny (and sometimes wobbly) bridge over a gorge.

Nature’s spa. Mohonk added a spa in 2005, which was recently refreshed. I dozed off to the sounds of wind in the treetops and chirping birds during a treatment at the new Lakeview Summerhouse, where you can book a massage in an open-air cabin high above the lake.

The porch. More than 600 wooden rocking chairs creak away on the Mohonk grounds, and I spent more than a few minutes gazing at the lake and sipping hot tea while rocking away on the main porch behind the Lake Lounge.

 

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At Sister Creek Vineyards, taste wine in a restored cotton gin

At Sister Creek Vineyards, taste wine in a restored cotton gin

Sister Creek Vineyards

Chris LeBlanc looks over casks of wine at Sister Creek Vineyards in Sisterdale, Texas8. Pam LeBlanc photo

If you’re looking for an alternative to the busloads of partiers who flock to the wineries around Fredericksburg, detour over to Sister Creek Vineyards in tiny Sisterdale, Texas.

You’ll find some great wine, without the crowds.

Read more: Record your travels in this new national parks journal

I stopped at the winery, which opened in 1988, on my way to Comfort earlier this week. It’s housed in a restored 1885 cotton gin, worthy of a stop on its own. Inside its rustic doors you’ll find roughhewn timbers, stairs that lead to a secret hatch door, lots of wine and a friendly proprietress named Leticia who will pour you samples.

Sister Creek Vineyards

Sister Creek Vineyards is housed in a restored cotton gin. Pam LeBlanc photo

I visited on a Tuesday, when Leticia was pouring three reds – Cotton Gin Red, a four-blend Reserve and the Vintner’s Collection cabernet sauvignon. My palette is far from sophisticated, and while I liked the $42.95 cab the best (full bodied and bold!), the $28.95 Cotton Gin Red came in a close second. I wasn’t a fan of the Reserve, which costs $35.95. A chardonnay and muscat were also available.

Visitors can pick up a laminated information card and take a self-guided tour through the facility, which is located between two cypress-lined (and now mostly dry) creeks midway between Comfort and Kendalia.

Wines are aged in 60-gallon oak barrels for up to three years. We wandered among them, then found our way back to the tasting room, where we chatted with Leticia, whose husband has been the head winemaker here since it opened.

Sister Creek Vineyards

Bottles of award-wining wine line the shelf at Sister Creek Vineyards. Pam LeBlanc photo

Sister Creek Vineyards, 1142 Sisterdale Highway, is open for tasting from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday through Friday and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday. For more information go to https://www.sistercreekvineyards.com.

 

 

 

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Record your travels in this new national parks journal

Record your travels in this new national parks journal

national parks journal

The journal has plenty of room to record all your park visits. Pam LeBlanc photo

​I’ve checked off visits to 28 national parks so far, and with any luck I’ll eventually make it to all 63 destinations in my new national parks journal.

I love national parks and I love keeping track of the places I’ve seen, so “National Parks Bucket List: The Ultimate Adventure Journal for all 63 Parks,” by Linda Mohammad ($19.99, Epic Ink), gets top scores from me.

Read more: Wonder what Pam LeBlanc packs for a night on the trail?

With a forest green faux-leather cover, the fill-it-in-yourself book looks retro on the outside. Inside you’ll find illustrations reminiscent of old-school park posters, plus space to record every camping trip, hiking route and memory from Arches to Zion.

The author’s favorite national park? Arizona’s Petrified Forest. My favorite – so far? Montana’s Glacier National Park.

The 176-page soft-cover book fits inside a hiking pack. Besides room for your own impressions, it includes maps, trivia (more people – 12.94 million – visited Great Smoky Mountains National Park than any other in 2022), and information about each park’s terrain, geography, cultural history, and wildlife.

It’s divided into geographic sections, with checklists and places to list the dates of your visit, the weather, trails you explored, and plants and animals you saw. Your final task? Rating it on a scale of one to five stars.

 

 

About Pam

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Ten best things about a Mediterranean cruise in March

Ten best things about a Mediterranean cruise in March

Mediterranean cruise

The Star Legend, a Windstar cruise ship, docks in Nice, France. Pam LeBlanc photo

Count me out for big ship cruises. Spending time with 3,000 other people on a boat for a week sounds like getting locked in a shopping mall and pushed out to sea. But small boats? I’m a convert. Especially if you travel during the off season, like I did, when I booked a week-long Mediterranean cruise with Windstar.

Our ship, the 300-passenger Star Legend, was about half full. We departed from Civitavecchia, on the outskirts of Rome, and sailed to Barcelona, making stops in Livorno, Italy; Nice, France; and Marseille, France.

Mediterranean cruise

A crowd forms around Michelangelo’s sculpture David in Florence. Pam LeBlanc photo

Here are my 10 favorite moments…

  1. Seeing Michelangelo’s sculpture, David. I had no idea that walking around a corner and seeing that 17-foot sculpted body would affect me the way it did. He’s beautiful. Florence is just an hour’s drive from Livorno, Italy, so we booked an “on your own” excursion to the art-filled city on a bus with other ship passengers. (You can save money by hopping a train on your own.) We didn’t have reservations but had no trouble getting a ticket to the Accademia Gallery, where the statue is located, the same day. (Don’t try this in the summer; book online in advance.)
Mediterranean cruise

Pam LeBlanc sits on the promenade in Nice. Chris LeBlanc photo

2. Strolling the promenade in Nice, France. This wide pedestrian walkway hugs the stone-covered beach, and it’s the best place along the Mediterranean to people watch. You’ll see cyclists, strollers, lovers, runners and more all taking in the ocean views or stopping for a drink at one of the adjacent bars. We took a dip in the ocean, which was chilly in March. And that stony beach is not for people with sensitive toes!

3. Taking in a flamenco show in Barcelona. The historic Palau de la Musica Catalana, with its ornate balconies and elaborate central skylight, makes the perfect setting for a performance of Spain’s traditional, foot stomping dance. It made me want to don a tight, ruffly dress and stamp the night away.

Mediterranean cruise

At a market in Barcelona, customers inspect the sea urchin. Pam LeBlanc photo

4. Wandering the market in Barcelona. You can find anything from fresh scorpionfish to empanadas and skewers holding a spiral of fried potatoes at the Mercat de la Boqueria, on Las Ramblas in Barcelona. Gird your loins – it’s crowded, noisy and tons of fun. We sampled raw sea urchin and oysters, sipped wine, and sampled bruschetta and ceviche.

5. Visiting the Picasso Museum in Barcelona. When I think of Picasso, I think of portraits of people with their facial features rearranged. The museum has some of that, but it’s heavy on Picasso’s early stuff, which is much more realistic. In all, it holds more than 4,000 works, and it’s all displayed in a series of interconnected historic buildings.

Mediterranean cruise

Chris LeBlanc strolls the narrow streets of Nice, France. Pam LeBlanc photo

6. Roaming the narrow streets of Nice. Get out and ramble, without a plan or agenda. You’ll stumble into the most wonderful places.

7. Sampling the gelato. I aimed for two servings a day, and sampled an array of flavors, from Fior di crema (sweet cream) to coconut. Yum.

Mediterranean cruise

Vendors sell flowers at the market in Nice. Pam LeBlanc phot

8. Learning about cave paintings at the Cosquer Cave museum in Marseille. In 1985, a diver discovered paintings in a partially submerged cave 120 feet underneath the surface of the ocean. Tourists can’t get to that site, which is slowly filling with more water, but they can ride a cart through a replica of the cave at Cosquer Mediterranee, which opened in 2022. Most surprising? The cave paintings include depictions of penguins.

9. Climbing Castle Hill in Nice. After chugging up a few hundred steps, you can take in views of the beachfront promenade far below, the harbor, and a sea of red tiled rooftops. You’ll also find the ruins of an ancient castle and a man-made waterfall.

Mediterranean cruise

Chris LeBlanc enjoys a dip in the hot tub during a Windstar cruise in the Mediterranean. Pam LeBlanc photo

10. Soaking in the hot tub on the bow of the Star Legend, our cruise ship, while we were docked in the harbor at Nice. Nobody else seemed to know about the tub, which we had to ourselves as we sipped adult beverages and watched passing sailboats.

 

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Banff Film Festival returns to Paramount in April

Banff Film Festival returns to Paramount in April

Banff Film Festival

The Banff Film Festival World Tour comes to Austin April 27-28, 2024.

Heads up, outdoor people. The Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour returns to Austin April 27-28.

The two-day festival features a selection of short films about people adventuring in the great outdoors. Mountain biking, snow skiing, rock climbing or paddling your thing? Check it out.

Austin historically draws some of the largest audiences for the traveling show, and it’s also a great place to mingle with people who’d rather head outside than zone out on a couch at home.

I never miss it.

Read more: The best things to do in Banff in winter

This year marks the 17th year that Whole Earth Provision Company has hosted the tour at the Paramount Theatre on Congress Avenue. It’s also the 12th year that Texas State Parks will benefit from the fund-raiser.

Each night showcases a different collection of films, selected from those shown at the Banff Centre Mountain Film Festival in Canada.

Whole Earth combines proceeds from the World Tour shows with the funds raised during its “April Is Texas State Park Month” store event, when customers can make donations. The total of funds raised by the two events has now topped $294,000.

Buy Banff Film Festival tickets online

Tickets are $28.69 per night – plus a $9.31 service fee that brings the cost of a single ticket to $38 – and available online at the Paramount Theatre website.

Banff Centre Mountain Film Festival is held each year in Banff, Canada, where I just spent a week. Mount Rundle, the famous slanted peak shown as the festival opens, looks even more impressive in real life. (It also reminds of a humongous lump of clay that’s been smashed with a frying pan.)

From the more than 400 festival entries, award-winning films and audience favorites are chosen for inclusion in the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour. The tour travels to more than 500 communities and 40 countries during the year.

Doors open 6 p.m. and the show starts at 7 p.m.

See you there!

 

 

About Pam

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The best things to do in Telluride in winter

The best things to do in Telluride in winter

best things to do in Telluride in winter

Skiers hit the slopes at Telluride Ski Resort in March 2024. Pam LeBlanc photo

Telluride always tops my list of the best ski towns in Colorado, and it’s hard to whittle the reasons why down to a short list.

Still, I’ll give it a try. I’ve skied there, ridden a fat tire bike through the snow, gone snow mobiling and dog sledding, ridden a sleigh to dinner and climbed a frozen waterfall.

Still, it comes down to the basics. Without further ado, here are the 10 best things about Telluride in winter. (I’ve got a whole other list for summer…)

 

  1. The ski mountain. Telluride Ski Resort spans more than 2,000 acres, with 19 lifts whisking skiers up those scenic peaks. The longest run stretches 4.6 miles, and from See Forever Run you can, well, see forever.
  2. The gondola. Visitors can stay in the old mining town of Telluride, on the valley floor, or book a room in Mountain Village. (I stayed at The Peaks Resort & Spa.) Either way, it’s a free 12-minute gondola ride from one place to the other, and the night view of town lights sparkling far below alone is worth the trip.
  3. The New Sheridan Historic Bar. This popular nightspot hasn’t changed much since it opened in 1895 – and it offers $5 Jack Daniel’s every night. (That’s a bargain in Telluride, where a cocktail will set you back at least $15 at most bars.)
  4. The Free Box. Lose a mitten? Need a warm hat? Check the Free Box on North Pine, just off Colorado Avenue. Locals and visitors alike head there to donate or pick up gently used pieces of clothing and housewares.
  5. The view from Colorado Avenue. Telluride is situated at the end of a box canyon, and the view is magnificent – a street lined with colorful houses and shops, surrounded by mountains.
  6. The sports. Scale a frozen waterfall with San Juan Adventures. I did it a few years ago and won’t forget the feeling of getting to the top and peering down at the guide far below.
  7. The penny bear. A 15-foot sculpture of a bear called Ursa Ravus stands across the street from Town Park near the end of Colorado Avenue. It’s made of 187,000 pennies embedded in concrete, and worth a visit.
  8. Telluride Distilling Company. Grab an old fashioned(or a bottle of bourbon) at the Telluride Distilling Company’s tasting room in Mountain Village. They also make a fine peppermint schnapps called Chairlift Warmer.
  9. The snowmobiling. Telluride Outfitters offers guided snowmobile trips to the ghost town of Alta. During the heyday of the Alta-Gold King mine, a couple hundred miners lived there in the late 1800s.
  10. Telluride Tom. Tom Watkinson is Telluride’s best ambassador. Watch a 23-minute film about him, just released this month, on Ascend here.

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

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