Paul Antrim serves brisket at Ronnie’s BBQ in Johnson City. Pam LeBlanc photo

Last week’s jaunt to a ranch near Mason to see where Nine-Banded Whiskey draws spring water used in its bourbon resulted in a happy discovery: A really good barbecue joint in Johnson City.

Ronnie Weiershausen started peddling barbecue cooked directly over coals at the storefront at 211 U.S. Highway 281 back in 1976. Mickey Poole bought the place in December 2019, with plans to use it as a commissary and satellite kitchen for an events center and tiny home village called The Edge that he’s opening near Fredericksburg later this year.

The barbecue business is going well, though, so Poole is keeping the fires burning – although he’s ditched the direct-heat method of cooking for an offset smoker “after Paul and I almost burned the place down.”

Paul Antrim mans the smoker behind Ronnie’s BBQ in Johnson City. Pam LeBlanc photo

Paul Antrim is the cook. He arrives at the office by 5 a.m. daily, seasoning meat and putting it on the smoker, where it spends the next six to eight hours. He turns out tender, smokey brisket, ribs, sausage, turkey, and chicken at the counter-service restaurant, serving ranchers and visitors like me passing through town. (Under no circumstances should you skip the jalapeno poppers, bacon-wrapped nuggets of fire and brimstone with a soothing cream cheese stuffing.)

“I’d put our stuff up against anybody,” Poole says. “His brisket is amazing.”

He’s right. The food has gotten so popular that Antrim smokes 18 or 19 briskets at a time, and sells out regularly.

It’s enough to convince me to make the trip, even if it is a little out of the way.

An exhibit called territories. – part of the Fortlandia exhibit – is opening on the Butler Hike and Bike Trail in downtown Austin. Photo courtesy The Trail Foundation

Look for a cool new outdoor exhibit on the Butler Hike and Bike Trail starting this weekend.

The interactive urban greenspace experience called territories. – that’s spelled with a lower case T and a period, just to make it confusing – was part of the Fortlandia exhibit on display at the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center last year. The Trail Foundation will unveil a new incarnation of the interactive piece on the east side of the trail at Lakeshore Park. (See the exact location of the installation here.)

Mark Odom Studio designed the piece, which is displayed in partnership with the Austin Parks and Recreation Department. Fortlandia is a collection of forts designed by local architects, designers, and artists

“We’re thrilled to be partnering with our friends at the Wildflower Center to host territories., and can’t wait to see children and adults alike enjoying this new creative, interactive feature on the Trail,” said Trail Foundation chief executive officer Heidi Anderson.

The concept for the exhibit comes from the game pick up sticks. The fort establishes a series of shelters, or territories, which can be continually redefined by its occupants, according to a press release from The Trail Foundation.

Mark Odom Studio collaborated with Jeremy Smith of Citadel Development Services, Matthew Conklin of Makehaus Design & Fabrication Studio, and Nathan Nordstrom, aka Sloke One, on the project.

“The second life of ‘territories.’ allows even more people the chance to engage and perhaps stay a little longer out in nature. Wayfinding and sight lines from different access points were addressed in this new iteration and we welcomed the opportunity to work with The Trail Foundation and City of Austin on further activating green space along the Trail,” Mark Odom said.

News Release 
Media Contact: TPWD Press Office, (512) 389-8030, news@tpwd.texas.gov 
June 1, 2021

Free Fishing Day in Texas Slated for June 5

AUSTIN – Anglers across the State of Texas are gearing up for Free Fishing Day on June 5. The first Saturday in June each year allows Texans to fish on any public waterbody in the state without a fishing license.

“Free Fishing Day is a wonderful opportunity for anglers to share their knowledge, skills, equipment, and love for fishing with a new participant, yet it’s also more than that,” said Craig Bonds, Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) Inland Fisheries Director. “We hope those trying fishing on this special day will also learn that purchasing a license is an act of conservation. A fishing license purchase is one of the simplest and most effective way people can support fisheries science and management.”

To help celebrate Free Fishing Day, TPWD offers multiple resources to provide fun, high quality fishing opportunities to anglers of all skill levels and all ages.

1. Fishing 101 –Learn the basics of fishing with tips and a variety of videos. Resources for how to get started, safety, supplies and gear, casting and baiting, and cleaning and storing fish can be found on the TPWD Learn to Fish
2. Find a Place to Fish close to Home – Texas offers numerous lakes and rivers with access to fishing throughout the state. The Lake Finderpage on the TPWD website can help  anglers find lakes by region or alphabetically. Access to information and fishing tips on more than 150 lakes are available. Also, check out community fishing lakes which can be great options as well.
3. Saltwater Fishing from a Pier –There are numerous wheelchair accessible fishing piers available for public use up and down the coast. Piers are a great place for the entire family to try saltwater fishing without the need for a boat. Public access sites can be found in every bay system.
4. Go Fishing in the City –TPWD’s Neighborhood Fishin’ lakes provide urban angling access for the entire family across the state. In all, 18 Neighborhood Fishin’ lakes provide a great opportunity to catch channel catfish including five in Dallas-Fort Worth, four in the Houston area, two each in the Austin and San Antonio areas, and one each in Amarillo, College Station, San Angelo, Waco, and Wichita Falls. Information on lake locations and how-to fishing videos can be found on the Neighborhood Fishin’ website.
5. Outdoor Adventures –TPWD, the City of Abilene, and various other organizations will provide outdoor education activities for kids and adults 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. at the Abilene Outdoor Adventures 2021 event at Cal Young Park. Participants can enjoy fishing education and fishing (some loaner tackle and bait provided) for catfish at Cal Young Park pond. TPWD staff, along with other community groups, will have booths at the event in addition to offering families the opportunity to participate in activities such as archery and fishing. Wildlife education and plant identification activities are also on the schedule, as well as backpacking, camping, and kayak demonstrations. 
6. Go Kayak Fishing on a Texas Paddling Trail:With more than 3,700 named streams, 15 major rivers and some 3,300 miles of tidal shoreline along the Gulf Coast, Texas offers unlimited possibilities for paddling adventures and angling opportunities of all types. Enjoy improved and maintained fishing and paddling access to rivers, creeks, lakes, ponds, bayous, and bays on any of the 78 official Texas Paddling Trails available throughout the state.
7. Fish in a State Park:Three state parks will offer special events on June 5. Fort Boggy State Park will host the “Summer Bash Kids Fish”, Sheldon Lake State Park & Environmental Learning Center will offer the “Catfish Corral”, and Bonham State Park will host a “Family Fishing” Although June 5 is designated as Free Fishing Day in Texas, fishing is free year-round at every Texas State Park.
8. Help the Conservation Effort with your License Purchase – Did you know that 100 percent of your fishing license fees go to TPWD for on-the-ground conservation efforts such as fish stocking, that help make Texas one of the best places in the country to fish?  For more information on licensing, visit the TPWD licenses page.

A great value is the Year-from-Purchase All-Water Fishing Package for Texas residents, which allows anglers to fish in fresh and salt water. It’s valid from the date of purchase through the end of the purchase month of the next license year. (Example: License purchased on March 13, 2021 expires March 31, 2022) The Texas Freshwater Fisheries Center is also offering free admission on June 5.

Learn more about Free Fishing Day at TakeMeFishing.org.

If you plan on fishing in federal waters, keep in mind that a license is needed for the private recreational angler red snapper season opening June 1.

Hike the ridge at the Devils River State Natural Area to get this view of the pristine West Texas river. Pam LeBlanc photo

I just wrapped up my fourth paddling trip – and the third in the last year – down the Devils River in West Texas last week.

I always get tons of questions on what it’s like and how to do this trip. I’ll be writing a more complete story later this year, but for now, here are a few pointers.

Jimmy Harvey steers his canoe down the rapid at Game Warden Rock. Pam LeBlanc photo

Chris LeBlanc paddles his canoe into a reed maze on the Devils River in May 2021. Pam LeBlanc photo

1. Don’t rush it. Sure, you could paddle the Devils River from the put-in at Baker’s Crossing to the Dan Hughes Unit of the State Natural Area in two or three days. I take five. That gives me time to enjoy the scenery, swim in the clear water, and look at birds, butterflies and porcupines along the way.
2. Be careful where you camp. It’s legal to camp on islands in the middle of the river (make sure there’s water flowing on both sides), or you can get a permit from the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department to use their overnight paddle camps along the way. Respect private property rights.
3. Tread lightly. This river is pristine. Don’t litter. Pick up any trash you find along the way. We found – and gathered – about a dozen beer cans, a couple of fishing lures and an old fishing rod in five days of paddling last week.
4. Be prepared. This river is no joke. Carry a satellite phone or GPS tracker, and know that it would take many hours for someone to reach you in case of emergency. If you’re not an experienced paddler, go with a guide. Bring a personal flotation device and wear it when you’re paddling through rapids.
5. Scout the rapids. It’s smart to get out and look before you blast through some of the rapids, like Game Warden Rock, Indian Creek and Three Tier Rapid. They can be dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing.
6. Portage Dolan Falls. This is a no-brainer, but last week I watched an unsuspecting kayaker fall out of his boat and tumble over Dolan Falls – without a life jacket or helmet. This is how people drown, folks.
7. Pack the right gear. Bring a spare paddle. You’ll also need a tent, sleeping bag, camp stove, food, GPS tracker, proper footwear, line for portaging your boat and a first aid kit. A folding chair and hammock are nice additions. Bring water, too – or a filtration system so you can drink river water.
8. Plan your shuttle. There aren’t many legal access points on the Devils. We used outfitter Gerald Bailey to drive us to the put in at Baker’s Crossing. For a much shorter paddle, you can also hire Amistad Expeditions to put you in at the upper unit of the Devils River State Natural Area; they can pick you up at the lower unit. That trip makes a good one-night run.
9. Remember, it’s catch and release if you’re fishing. That helps protect the population of native trout.
10. Keep an eye out! I’ve seen porcupine, tarantulas, snakes, deer, hogs, hawks and more on the river. Don’t harass the wildlife, but enjoy it.

A diamond back water snake relaxes on a rock on the bank of the Devils River. Pam LeBlanc photo

Chris LeBlanc, left, Jason Jones, center, and Jimmy Harvey, front, relax around camp on an island in the Devils River. Pam LeBlanc photo

Chris LeBlanc takes in the view from a boulder in the Devils River. Pam LeBlanc photo

For more information, go to www.devilsriverconservancy.org. Please make a donation.

Oak Alley Plantation in Vacherie, Louisiana, includes an exhibit on the enslaved men, women and children who worked there. Pam LeBlanc photo

Ten years ago, when I last visited Oak Alley Plantation, the Greek Revival style mansion and its long row of gracefully bending oaks took the spotlight.

Tour guides in antebellum gowns led me through the Big House, showing off fine furnishings and lush grounds, but little mention was made of the slaves who once lived there. I revisited the former sugar cane plantation in Vacherie, Louisiana, last weekend, and got a much fuller picture.

Today, visitors can still explore the antebellum mansion where wealthy planter Jacques Roman and his family lived, but they can also learn about the more than 200 enslaved men, women and children who supported them.

Six re-constructed slave cabins feature exhibits on individual slaves at Oak Alley. Pam LeBlanc photo

An exhibit that opened in 2013 includes six re-constructed slave quarters buildings, set close to their original location. Exhibits inside those structures tell the stories of field slaves and house slaves, highlighting the daily lives of individuals like Pognon, a seamstress; Anna, who made lye soap; Emelia, who dug ditches, repaired roads and maintained the levee; and Antoine, who grafted the first papershell pecan, opening the door for commercial pecan production in the area.

The exhibit provides a good balance to a tour of the Big House, a 180-year-old Greek revival-style mansion where Jacques and Celina Roman raised their family.

“We went away from the previous tour, with guides in antebellum dresses and folklore passed down by word of mouth, to a tour focused on historical facts,” says Janell Napier, who led a small group of visitors through the Big House.

The Greek Revival style mansion was built in 1836. Pam LeBlanc photo

Walking through the home, you’ll see the dining room, where a slave pulled a rope to move the “shoo fly fan” that hangs over the table, the parlor, and the bedrooms where the family lived.

Jacque Roman died at age 48 in 1848, and his wife Celina took over operations of the plantation, but it fell into financial hardship and was sold in 1866.

Eventually, the Stewart family purchased it in 1925. Josephine Stewart lived there until 1972, and created the non-profit Oak Alley Foundation, which maintains the property today.

The 28 oak trees that line the walkway leading from the Mississippi River to the front of the home remain a highlight. The trees, between 200 and 250 years old, form a tunnel of green, and a walk beneath their canopy will whisk you back to a different time.

Look for a complete story about Oak Alley later this year.

Oak Alley is located at 3645 Highway 18 in Vacherie, about an hour’s drive from Baton Rouge. Admission is $25 for adults; $10 for ages 13 to 18; and $7 for ages 6 to 12. For more information go to www.oakalleyplantation.com.