What do you pack for a major expedition? New book takes a look

What do you pack for a major expedition? New book takes a look

Ed Stafford’s new book describes what some of the world’s greatest explorers took with them on their journey. Pam LeBlanc photo

Ever wonder what you’d need for a trip to the South Pole, a road trip across the Sahara Desert, or a flight across the Atlantic?

Survivalist Ed Stafford, who walked the Amazon River (with a guide) and has starred in his own series on the Discovery Channel, has put together a book that answers those questions.

“Expeditions Unpacked: What the Great Explorers Took into the Unknown” details 25 expeditions through the equipment the explorers took with them.

The book hits store shelves on Sept. 17, but I’ve been flipping through an advance copy. For me, the charm comes in reading about the non-essentials the explorers chose to take with them.

Jacques Cousteau packed a red knit beanie along with a shark cave and face mask. Pam LeBlanc photo

You might have guessed that Roald Amundsen took ski boots and skis on his expedition to the South Pole from 1910 to 1912, for example, but did you know he also packed a mandolin, a piano, a gramophone and a violin?

Amelia Earhart packed Dr. Berry’s Freckle ointment along with the essential parachutes, Bendix radio direction finder and an emergency raft on her flight across the Atlantic.

Thor Heyerdahl, who spent 101 days on a balsa wood raft during his Kon-Tiki Expedition, brought shark powder (whatever that is) and a parrot on his journey, although I’m baffled by an account of Heyerdahl’s encounter with a 50-foot whale shark with 3,000 teeth that could have “turned the Kon-Tiki to driftwood.”

Whale sharks don’t have teeth, and they’re not aggressive. They’re like giant catfish, and I’ve swum with a dozen of them at once off of Isla Mujeres.

The book covers all sorts of explorations, including sailing, bicycling, camel trekking, skiing and ballooning. I love the illustrations that go with each chapter – drawings of the supplies, unpacked and spread out.

During his first ascent of Everest in 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary tucked sardines, biscuits and tinned apricots into his luggage, along with walkie talkies, an ice axe, a nylon and cotton tent, woolen socks, crampons and goggles.

Eva Dickson, the first woman to drive across the Sahara, loaded her Chevrolet Confederate with a hunting rifle, a camping bed, a spare tire, gasoline and a copy of the Bible for her 27-day journey in 1932.

Amelia Earhart brought parachutes and a life raft, along with freckle cream. Pam LeBlanc photo

Not all the explorers mentioned made it out alive. Perhaps Lieutenant Colonel Percy Fawcett, who disappeared after heading into the Amazon basin to find the forgotten city, was missing a few key pieces when he packed flares, a mosquito net, accordion, sextant, fedora and a tweed jacket.

Stafford allots 10 pages to his own 860-day trek along the Amazon River from 2008 to 2010. Explorers have been hauling some of the same gear he took – a hammock, a sewing awl and a machete, for example – for centuries. But he enjoyed the luxury of modern technology his predecessors never had, like GPS, satellite communication equipment, a camcorder – and DEET to keep the mosquitos away.

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Finally, I took the plunge into Hamilton Pool

Finally, I took the plunge into Hamilton Pool

Sit here to enjoy a shower compliments of Mother Nature. Lisa Reed photo

Three months after getting the itch to swim at Hamilton Pool Preserve, I finally launched my body into the glinting green-blue pond this morning.

I spent a good three and a half hours lolling in the natural swimming hole, letting water spill over the lip of the enormous overhang onto my head, and scampering around the boulders that surround the water.

This guy maximized his relaxation time. Pam LeBlanc photo

The pool feels a little like a Hawaiian oasis dropped in the middle of the Hill Country. It formed thousands of years ago, when the dome over an underground river collapsed. Today, trails are worn, signs of erosion are obvious, and the tiny gravel beach is perpetually packed, but the place, to me, still feels serene and almost Jurassic.

The park switched to a reservation system in 2016 to alleviate overcrowding and relieve traffic snarls on Ranch Road 12. I went online to book a spot back in June, but the soonest opening I could get was today.

Ben Williams, left, and Daniel Dao, right, made their first visit to the pool today. Pam LeBlanc photo

Online reservations, which cost $10 plus a $1 service fee, are needed between March 1 and Oct. 31, and on weekends and holidays during November and December.(A quick check today showed a few mid-week slots available in September and October, but weekends booked through the end of October.) You also need an additional $15 in cash once you get to the pool for the entrance fee.
To make a reservation, go to https://parks.traviscountytx.gov/parks/hamilton-pool-preserve. You’ll have to choose betweena morning or afternoon reservation (9 a.m. to 1 p.m. or 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.); each reservation includes one vehicle with no more than eight people.

Lots of big catfish live in the pool. Pam LeBlanc photo

Wear sturdy shoes, because you have to walk a quarter of a mile on a rocky path to get to the pool. And just because you have a reservation, you might not be able to swim. The pool occasionally closes due to high bacteria levels. Call the public information line at 512-264-2740 before you go.

Lisa Reed hikes along the back of the overhang. Pam LeBlanc photo

No lifeguard is on duty, but plenty of life vests are available for visitors. Diving is not permitted due to submerged rocks. No pets are allowed either.

Lisa Reed looks out at the pool from beneath the rocky overhang. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

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These energy bars actually taste like real food …

These energy bars actually taste like real food …

Kate’s Real Food sent me an assortment of bars. Not shown here – my favorite, the Tiki bar with coconut and mango. Pam LeBlanc photo

Samples of energy bars, sports drinks and gels arrive in my mailbox all the time. Usually, I stash them in a bin in my pantry and dole them out as needed.

They’re fuel, that’s it.

But last weekend, during a speedy trip to the coast, I tossed a few Kate’s Real Food bars into my bag. And when I ripped open the Tiki Bar flavored one and took a bite, I actually looked twice at the wrapper.

The Kate’s Real Food Bar tasted, as its name suggested, like actual food, instead of the dense, chewy globs that got me through last year’s Texas Water Safari. I might even suggest that it tasted a bit like a trip to the tropics, with bits of dried mango (my fave!) and coconut (wait no, that’s my fave!).

The 2.2-ounce bars (one bar equals two servings, according to the label, but I wolfed down the entire bar because apparently I’m a glutton) are made with organic ingredients, brown rice flour and honey. I ate mine plain, but the website shows lovely pictures of them crumbled up (a fancy restaurant would probably call it “deconstructed”) and sprinkled on yogurt or embedded, along with blueberries and strawberry slices, on a cream cheese-slathered piece of toast.

Each serving – again, the bar equals two – is gluten free and has 3 grams of protein and about 150 calories. Double those numbers if you’re a normal human.

Here’s my normal stash of energy foods. I’ll put the Kate’s Real Food bars on top from now on. Pam LeBlanc photo

According to a press release, the namesake Kate was a ski bum in Jackson Hole (hey, that’s where I met my husband!) in the 1990s. She couldn’t find an energy bar that tasted great and also fueled her adventures, so she made her own.

Voila, Kate’s Real Food. The hand-rolled bars are made from organic and sustainable ingredients.

Besides the Tiki Bar, the menu includes the Handle Bar with dark chocolate, cherries and almonds; the Stash Bar with peanut butter, hemp and flax; the Bivy Bar with lemon and coconut; the Grizzly Bar with peanut butter and dark chocolate; and the Tram Bar, with peanut butter and milk chocolate.

They sell for $2.49 each at www.katesrealfood.com

 

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Following the Arctic Cowboys to the coast for a shakedown run

Following the Arctic Cowboys to the coast for a shakedown run

Jimmy Harvey, left, Jeff Wueste, center, and West Hansen, right, drag their kayaks out of the surf at sunrise Saturday. Pam LeBlanc photo

Next summer, I’m heading north to track the Austin-based Arctic Cowboys as they attempt to become the first paddlers to kayak the entire Northwest Passage.

I’m pretty excited about that expedition. Covering big adventure tops the list of why I left my long-time and much loved job at the Austin American-Statesman to go freelance last fall.

Last weekend, Arctic Cowboys leader West Hansen, plus teammates Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and I, drove to Padre Island National Seashore so the guys could get some time in the surf in their Epic 18X kayaks.

West Hansen, leader of the Arctic Cowboys expedition, paddles into the surf at Padre Island National Seashore on Aug. 23, 2019. Pam LeBlanc photo

My job? Stand waist deep in the water and try not to flood my camera while taking shots of them in action. I needed the practice as much as they needed the shakedown run in their Epic 18X kayaks.

They learned a few things, like it’s difficult to right an unloaded sea kayak in the surf. The ballast keeps a boat steadier and easier to roll back to upright position.

West Hansen, Jeff Wueste and Jimmy Harvey pose after a training session at Padre Island National Seashore. Pam LeBlanc photo

We spent about four hours at the beach Friday night, then went back to the hotel, where Hansen and the others did their own version of that scene from “Jaws,” where everyone sits around and compares scars. Hansen won, revealing a jagged line on his leg where he impaled it on a chunk of glass as a kid.

West Hansen, leader of the Arctic Cowboys, prepares for a training session. Pam LeBlanc photo

We got up extra early Saturday morning and headed back to the beach for sunrise. My biggest takeaway from that? Leave the camera gear in the car overnight or it’ll never unfog when you pull it out at the beach.

West Hansen, front, and Jeff Wueste, back, practice paddling in rough surf. Pam LeBlanc photo

I’ve attached some of my favorite shots from the weekend. And look for a story in the Austin American-Statesman in the next few weeks about Hansen’s expeditions, and the Sept. 7 book signing for his upcoming account of his 2012 Amazon Express expedition.

That 111-day adventure took his team 4,100 miles down the world’s longest river. The Northwest Passage should feel short by comparison.

West Hansen lost his cowboy hat in the surf. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

 

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At Ratcliff Lake, plenty of pines, a warm lake, and no crowds

At Ratcliff Lake, plenty of pines, a warm lake, and no crowds

I spent a night at Ratcliff Lake Recreation Area in this 1984 VW camper van. Pam LeBlanc photo

Last week’s trip to East Texas took me back in time in more ways than just the 1984 VW Westfalia campervan that I drove to get there.

I spent a night at Ratcliff Lake Recreation Area in Davy Crockett National Forest, a campground I’d visited a few times as a kid, again as a college student, once more with a boyfriend after college, and most recently 15 years ago with my husband.

I remembered it for its tall, swaying pine trees and small, amber-hued lake. When I was little, my family staked out our big blue canvas tent on a pine needle-cushioned spot just across from the swimming area. Our Austin neighbors came along, and we spent a long summer weekend running amok in the woods and paddling on the lake.

The park offers fishing, hiking and swimming. Pam LeBlanc photo

In college, eight or 10 of us piled into a couple of cars and drove out from Texas A&M University with gear borrowed from the school’s recreation department. All I remember about that trip is waking up in a thunderstorm, our tent flooded so badly that we had to bail out and seek shelter in our cars.

After college, my then-boyfriend and I pitched a tent in a woody nook of the park alongside the lake and pulled out fishing rods. I didn’t catch a thing, but Roger reeled in an old tennis shoe – with a tiny fish inside it.

Most recently, my husband Chris and I made the trip with my sister and her husband. We grilled dinner, toasted marshmallows and hiked through the dogwoods.

The park is filled with loblolly pines and oaks. Pam LeBlanc photo

It had been so long since I’d been here that I didn’t know exactly what to expect. I found a nearly vacant park – but the cozy feeling that those shoulder-to-shoulder loblolly pines provided remained.

I’m not quite sure why it was so empty – no kids swimming, only three or four of the more than 50 camping sites taken, including the spot I chose, once again, directly across from the swimming area.

Sure, it was hot. Even the lake felt like a cauldron of soup – not refreshing at all. But the hush of the woods felt like a reward after three and a half hours of driving that old 1984 Westfalia here from Austin.

I jumped in the lake, lit a fire in the firepit, grilled a couple of bratwurst and sipped a glass of white wine in my special  “Always Be Prepared” camping wine glass.

Put it on your camping list. It wraps up everything that I like about East Texas into a quick weekend escape: Pines, a lake, hiking trails, a paved road for pedaling, and plenty of stars.

And it gave me a healthy dose of nostalgia, too.

The pines stretch to the sky. Pam LeBlanc photo

If you go: Ratcliff Lake Recreation Area is located near Kennard, east of Crockett in Davy Crockett National Forest. Camping is $15 per night; $20 with electric hookups. For more information go to www.recreation.gov/camping/campgrounds/234362.

 

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Best way to get around Cape Cod? Bicycle, of course!

Best way to get around Cape Cod? Bicycle, of course!

 

Cyclists stream along the Cape Cod Rail Trail on Aug. 7, 2019. Pam LeBlanc photo

The best way to get around Cape Cod?

By bike, of course, especially when a bike path connects a slew of small towns and provides easy access to bike shops, ice cream stores, kettle ponds and ocean beaches.

I spent five days on the Cape last week with friends who have a summer house there. We pedaled our way from our home base in Dennis to destinations all up and down the 25.5-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail.

The Cape Cod Rail Trail stretches 25.5 miles along Cape Cod, connecting towns, beaches, bike shops, restaurants and ponds like this one, Seymour Pond. Pam LeBlanc photo

We zipped along the smooth, flat ribbon of asphalt on our way to explore Crosby Beach and stopped for ice cream in Orleans. I experienced my first biking round-about (cool!) and stopped for a dip in beautiful Seymour Pond, which abuts the trail. Every time we zoomed through a tunnel, we all hollered to hear the echo.

We also pedaled back toward the mainland in pursuit of Long Pond in Yarmouth, one of nine kettle ponds I dipped a toe in during my visit. The trail provides easy access to Nickerson State Park, home to some of the best ponds I experienced during my trip.

Shops, restaurants and ice cream stands are easily accessible from the trail. Pam LeBlanc photo

The trail follows the route of an old railroad line that went bankrupt in 1970s. The Commonwealth of Massachusetts bought the land in 1976, and started building the trail a few years later. The first 19 miles were unveiled in 1981, and additional sections have opened since. Most recently, a 5.7-mile stretch between Dennis and Yarmouth was added in 2018, and plans call for ultimately extending the path all the way from Barnstable to the west to Provincetown at the tip of the Cape.

It’s fun to yell when you pedal through the tunnels along the trail. It makes a nice echo. Pam LeBlanc photo

Trail users can park for free at 13 points along the route, which currently links Yarmouth, Dennis, Harwich, Chatham, Brewster, Orleans, Wellfleet and the Cape Cod National Seashore. The Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation maintains the route.

Need a bike? Rent one from one of more than a dozen bike shops along the way. (Check out the list at Cape Cod Visitors Directory.)

The trail is open from dawn to dusk. By law, children 16 and under must wear helmets.

 

 

 

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