I love to taste the local flavors of the places I travel.

I also love ice cream, so when I spent a few days in Anchorage last week, I beelined it – twice – to an ice cream shop that uses local plants to concoct its uniquely Alaskan scoops.

The first time I stopped at Wild Scoops, I ordered one scoop of wild blueberry and another of fireweed and honey. I knew I’d like the blueberry; here in Austin I’m known for whipping up blueberry pies all summer long. But I had no idea what fireweed would taste like. The plant, which gets its name because it’s one of the first plants to sprout on land that’s been burned, grows in tall purple-pink plumes all summer in Alaska.

It turns out it’s delicious. I caught a hint of cedar and a nice dollop of honey in the fireweed. The blueberry was wild and subtle – not overly sweet or dyed a freaky shade of blue.

But my favorite flavor was spruce tip, which I ordered on my return visit to the downtown ice cream shop, where a crowd is always gathered. I’ve never actually eaten a spruce tree, but it tasted like a hike in the woods or a cozy campfire.

As a side note, someone in Alaska told me that Alaskans eat more ice cream per capita than any other state, which seemed surprising. Turns out that’s not true. According to data from Zippia, Alaska actually ranks 47^th out of all 50 states for per capita ice cream consumption.

Obviously not everyone up there has discovered Wild Scoops.

You’ve probably seen photographs of the nuclear bombs that went off in the Marshall Islands in the 1940s and ‘50s – enormous, lint-colored, mushroom-shaped clouds rising like nightmares from the ocean, utterly surreal against the slender palm trees in the  foreground.

Since visiting last week, I’ll never see those images the same way.

During our week-long stay, the small group of journalists I traveled with met government officials, community leaders, scientists, and residents of some of the smaller islands around the capitol of Majuro. We also sat down with members of the National Nuclear Committee, who are trying to increase awareness about the nuclear testing that took place here, in a gut-wrenching meeting I’ll never forget.

I’ll be writing more about my trip – which I took partly to learn about Sawyer Products’ efforts to bring clean water to residents, partly to learn about how climate change is affecting the low-lying atolls, and partly to explore the region as a travel destination – in coming weeks.

Until then, here are ten things to know about visiting this remote string of islands located midway between Hawaii and Australia…

1. First, the Republic of the Marshall Islands is one of the least visited countries in the world. Just 10,500 people visit annually, according to Carlos Domnick, head of the Office of Commerce, Investment and Tourism.

2. About 60,000 people live in the Marshall Islands. About half of them live on the main island of Majuro, where I stayed.

3. Some experts say parts of the Marshall Islands could be uninhabitable due to rising sea levels in as few as 30 years if nothing is done.

4. If you go, don’t expect a developed travel destination. Majuro has just two hotels, and they’re basic. I stayed at the Hotel Robert Reimers, where my room was clean and perfectly satisfactory, but would be considered lower end by many Americans. Focus on the people, who are amazing, and the culture, which is friendly and welcoming.

5. Dress conservatively. Women – including visitors – cover their knees and shoulders. Although the bikini swimsuit was named for Bikini Atoll, locals don’t wear swimsuits (and neither should you, in public areas). Women swim in shorts and shirts or even skirts and dresses.

6. You should filter all water, or drink bottled water, even at hotels.

7. Most locals don’t talk much about the nuclear testing that took place here. Until recently, it wasn’t taught in schools, and families directly affected by the bombs tended to hide it. Members of the National Nuclear Committee told us that women who had miscarriages after the tests were told they were caused by incest. Cancer rates are high.

8. Weirdly, the Hangar Bar at the airport serves “Bravo Shots,” named for the hydrogen bomb called Castle Bravo set off on March 1, 1954. Castle Bravo formed a fireball more than 4 miles across within 1 second, and a mushroom cloud stretched 9 miles high after 1 minute. Contamination spread to surrounding atolls. The radiation and its effects still linger.

9. Visitors who travel to the Marshall Islands can fish, snorkel and scuba dive. I saw orange and white clown fish tucked in anemones and a shy octopus as big as a cowboy hat. A few folks surf on the outer islands. There’s a small museum, and you can take a ride on an outrigger sailing canoe at a local club for $20 per person.

10. The islands are situated just west of the International Date Line. That means when you return to the United States, you get a replay on the day you fly out. I left on Friday night, after spending part of the afternoon skimming across the turquoise waters of the lagoon on a traditional outrigger sailing canoe. But an hour after leaving the airport that night, I got to start myday all over again, whiling away Friday Number 2 on airplanes and at airports.

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I detoured through the little West Texas town of Sanderson while heading back to Austin from Big Bend recently and discovered a new coffee shop called Ferguson Motors.

I first wandered through Sanderson three years ago, when I wrote about the scrappy little town for Texas Monthly Magazine. I stayed at the Desert Air Motel, met a bunch of locals, and learned something about the town’s tragic history.

Read more: Sanderson is an underrated West Texas escape

Now I’ve got another fantastic reason to take Highway 90 instead of Interstate 10 when I’m driving to Big Bend.

Here are the best things about Ferguson Motors:

1. It’s housed in an old Ford dealership!

2. They sell a lot more than just coffee.

3. There’s an open mic session every Friday evening.

4. They make great sandwiches. The cookies (especially the peanut butter ones) are fantastic, and I didn’t try it, but the pizza smells great too.

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5. They sell art by local artists, including one of my favorites, Liz Potter. I discovered Liz’s work at Blue Genie Art Show in Austin one Christmas and liked it so much I tracked her down and met her for coffee in Alpine, where she now lives. I’ve got a whole collection of bandanas she made, printed with cool West Texas critters like jackrabbits and javelina.

6. The events venue in the backside of the building hosts jam sessions, live music and more.

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7. The owners of Ferguson Motors, Jake and Hannah Harper, are really nice.

8. On July 1, they’re hosting a beer tasting with Farm Ale Brewing Co.. Meet the brewery owner, ask about brewing, taste the beer, and grab some free merchandise.

 

 

Add soaking in an inflatable pool on a deck in the Chihuahuan Desert to the list of things that make me happy.

I spent a night at Paisano Azul Ranch in Terlingua, where you can rent a yurt or a small modern cabin, or pitch a tent alongside a cactus-covered hillside.

I chose the yurt, which came with a hot tub that doubles as a “cool pool” when the temperatures rise.

Which they did. This was Big Bend in June, and it was hot as heck during the day. But I knew going in that June, July and August are typically the hottest months out there; highs hover between 94 and 97 degrees.

Just prepare for the heat, drink lots of water, and remember that back deck oasis.

We spent the afternoon at nearby Big Bend National Park. When we returned, my husband cooked dinner on the grill on the deck while I lounged neck deep in the inflatable tub. The next morning, I climbed in the pool again to enjoy sunrise.

The tub wasn’t the only thingI liked about Paisano Azul Ranch.

Ten cool things about Paisano Azul Ranch

1. Two resident goats, Stella and Clyde, patrol the place. If you’re lucky, you might catch one of them hitching a ride in the golf cart the manager uses to check on the property.

2. You can watch the sun set on two sides – the west, like you do in most places, but also east, where you can see the setting sun light up the Chisos Mountains.

3. The yurt is fancy. Besides a queen-sized bed, you can pull out the couch into a full-sized bed. There’s a kitchenette, shower, and a toilet, too. You can flip on a TV, but who needs that? Go outside and watch Mother Nature’s show instead.

4. The toilet is equipped with a bidet!

5. The Cottonwood General Store just down the street feels like a teeny, tiny Whole Foods, with an array of cheeses, wines, and fresh produce to make your own charcuterie tray, best consumed on that deck.

6. The yurt is a 10-minute drive from the Starlight Theatre and Terlingua Trading Post, where a lot of the guitar-strumming, hula-hooping action takes place in Terlingua. For such a small town, Terlingua’s got a hopping bar scene.

7. It takes about 30 minutes to get from the yurt to the Panther Junction Visitor Center in Big Bend National Park, where you can plot an adventurous day (or three) of hiking in the Chisos Mountains, dipping your toe in the Rio Grande, or looking for wildlife.

8. It’s a 20-minute drive from the yurt to Barton Warnock Visitor Center in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Bring your mountain bike to access incredible trails that start at a trailhead across the street.

9. Step outside at night. We timed our visit to coincide with a full moon. After darkness fell, my husband stood on the deck naked, and I caught a great image of a double moon.

10. The yurt is just a few hundred yards away from Terlingua Creek. Big Bend got a ton of rain in May, and the creek raged. Take a walk down to check it out.

​My backpacking crew is headed east this summer, to hike a section of the Appalachian Trail. I can’t make that trip, since I’m recovering from knee surgery, but I joined the gang for a quick shakeout at McKinney Falls State Park this week.

The 641-acre park, located at the confluence of Onion Creek and Williamson Creek in southeast Austin, makes a nice spot for a quick overnight and gear testing. The campground has some nice shady spots; I like the spots on Grapevine Loop best because they’re tucked in the trees. I’ve got great memories of picnicking at the park when I was a kid, and cyclists and hikers will find 9 miles of trail to explore.

Normally, I’d make a beeline to the Lower Falls, but I’m still on crutches so I skipped it this time. Still, recent rains mean the water is flowing better than it has in a few months. (Don’t expect that to last.)

There’s better swimming but less dramatic scenery at the Upper Falls, where you can plop yourself beneath a towering cypress tree or leap into the green pool of water. When water is higher, you can jump off a rocky ledge at the swimming area.

The Smith Visitors Center at the park, which closed after flooding in 2013, reopened in October 2021. Visitors will find information about the park’s natural history, plus an observation deck. And on Thursday nights during good weather, the park hosts free line-dancing classes there from 6:30 to 7:30 p.m.

During this week’s Wednesday night visit, my friends loaded and unloaded their backpacks, popped up the tents they’ll be using on the trail, and sorted through seat pads, water filters and other gear. We took a slow walk around the campground, then settled in at the picnic table for dinner. (If you’ve read about my backpacking adventures, you probably know I like PackIt Gourmet camp meals the best.)

Afterward, while my friends zipped themselves inside their tents, I made myself comfortable in Vincent VanGo, my Ford Transit campervan. I missed my tent, but until I’m more mobile the van makes a fun substitute.

McKinney Falls State Park is located at 5808 McKinney Falls Parkway. Admission is $6 for adults and free for ages 12 and under.

Now that summer is here, purchase day passes and book campsites in advance. The park sells out weekends and holidays.