Arctic Cowboys test gear in snowy Austin before planned Northwest Passage paddle expedition

Arctic Cowboys test gear in snowy Austin before planned Northwest Passage paddle expedition

West Hansen and Jimmy Harvey paddle Lady Bird Lake on a rare snowy day in Austin, Texas. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen wriggled into a dry suit Monday, squeezing his head and wrists through tight gaskets designed to keep out water, then snapped a neoprene spray skirt into place before climbing into his torpedo-shaped kayak.

Hansen, who is gearing up to lead a kayaking expedition across the Northwest Passage later this year, wanted to test out his cold weather equipment. That meant loading an 18-foot Epic sea kayak covered with half a foot of snow onto his vehicle and heading to Lady Bird Lake in downtown Austin, where he tugged on a knit hat and attached pogies – insulated mittens that look like oven mitts – to his double-blade paddle.

Everything went as planned, and Hansen and fellow Arctic Cowboy Jimmy Harvey logged a couple of hours of urban paddling on one of the coldest days in Austin history. Temperatures hovered in the 20s as the two slid their boats into the water near Austin High School, paddled up to Loop 1 (MoPac), blew down to Congress Avenue, then glided into Barton Creek, where steam rose off the water surface and snow clung to branches arched overhead.

Chances are, the temperatures they braved in Austin yesterday were colder than what they’ll face during their expedition, tentatively planned for summer 2021. High temperatures in Tuktoyaktuk, at the western edge of their 1,900-mile route, average about 61 in July. Temperatures in Pond Inlet, near the eastern edge of the route, are colder, about 52 degrees.

“Our faces were a little cold, but other than that it was nice and toasty,” Hansen said of yesterday’s shake out.

West Hansen pulls on the top of his dry suit. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jimmy Harvey prepares to paddle. The insulated mittens attached to his paddle are called “pogies.” Pam LeBlanc photo

There will be differences, though. The winds in the Arctic will probably be stronger, creating colder wind chills, and the wildlife more dangerous. The Cowboys will likely encounter polar bears, which can smell their prey a kilometer away and swim up to 6 mph, as they kayak across the passage. They could also face orcas, storms and cracking sea ice.

Hansen hasn’t determined yet which direction they’ll make the roughly two-month trip. That will depend on how quickly the ice breaks up as summer begins, and how soon the Canadian government allows access into Nunavut, populated by the native Inuit people. And that all depends on how well Covid vaccine rollout goes.

“We’re gearing up as if we’re going, communicating with the Canadian government, and reaching out to different scientific organizations that need testing done to link with them,” Hansen said. “We’re treating it as if we’re going, and hopefully in next few months things will change with Covid.”

West Hansen and Jimmy Harvey paddle Barton Creek in downtown Austin on Feb. 15, 2021. Pam LeBlanc photo

Hansen, who became the first person to paddle 4,200 miles from a newly discovered source of the Amazon River to the sea in 2012, doesn’t seem worried about the potential hazards. He endured colder conditions in Russia in 2014, when he and Jeff Wueste, the third member of the Arctic Cowboys team, paddled the entire Volga River. And river bandits, whitewater rapids and an injured shoulder didn’t stop his Amazon trip.

As for the nippy Austin run?
“It was nice,” he said. “And we saw a cross country skier.”

That skier was gliding along the Butler Trail around Lady Bird Lake as they pulled their boats out.

West Hansen and Jimmy Harvey launch their kayaks near Austin High School on Feb. 15, 2021. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

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Storm mangles tents, soaks gear, but paddlers continue up Texas coast

Storm mangles tents, soaks gear, but paddlers continue up Texas coast

The post storm wreckage of Branndon Bargo’s tent. Branndon Bargo photo

Add late night, tent-collapsing storms to puke-inducing rough seas, hideous chafing and ocean poops on the list of joys experienced by a group of Austin paddlers kayaking up the Texas coast.
The team endured its wildest night yet Sunday, and that’s saying something, considering they fended off drunk teen-agers one night and pitched tents on a crab-infested mudflat another.
West Hansen is leading the mini expedition, which started as an eight-day semi-serious training trip from the tip of Texas to the Louisiana border. They’ve made less than half that distance (no worries, they didn’t really have a hard-and-fast schedule) and already have burned up six days. One team member quit after four nights, joking that he was too old and wise for so much fun. Three others – veteran paddlers Jeff Wueste and Jimmy Harvey, along with mountain climber Branndon Bargo (of “The Highpointers” show on PBS) – are still plugging along and, it seems, actually savoring the seemingly endless barrage of discomforts.
Not long after I left the guys after camping with them near Bird Island Basin, they headed back into the Intercoastal Waterway, near Padre Island National Seashore.
A few hours later they paddled into Corpus Christi Bay with a tailwind, and zipped along until they reached open water, where they encountered foot-and-a-half rollers. The team veered right, hugging a line of spoil islands, then popped into the channel just south of Port Aransas. They sped as quickly as they could past the bustling ferry crossing and into rough water surrounding an industrial area. At nearly 8 p.m., they pulled ashore for the night.
After getting word of incoming inclement weather, they pitched camp, buttoned things up and went to sleep. Then, at about 12:30 a.m., things went from calm to crazy.
“This gust of wind came in and snapped my tent pole,” Bargo said today. “Then the pole pierced the rainfly and collapsed it all on top of me.”
Temperatures dropped by 20 degrees and rain sliced sideways through camp. Wearing nothing but his underpants, Bargo staggered out into the elements to wrangle his kayak on top of his flattened tent, pinning it like a calf at a rodeo. After hollering at a still-sleeping Wueste, he retrieved his sodden sleeping bag and fled to Harvey’s still-standing-but-now-leaking tent, where they rode out the next four hours, cold and wet.

A cold, wet Branndon Bargo surveys camp after a violent storm ripped through. Jeff Wueste photo

Hansen, meanwhile, was busy directing his own three-ring circus. The first wave of wind and rain laid his tent down but didn’t kill it. A second, stronger wave yanked up a couple of stakes securing the tent’s fly cover, which began flapping violently. He strained to hold the tent poles in place to keep the shelter from blowing down.
Then Wueste ditched his own wounded structure and came knocking at Hansen’s tent flaps. Hansen sent him out to tie the shuddering shelter to the bow of a boat, and the two huddled inside, using their body weight to hold the tent, its stakes now plucked from the ground like feathers from a chicken, down.
The vestibule flaps slapped Wueste’s face, the rain pooled at one end of the tent, and the storm blasted the team until 4:40 a.m. They finally went to sleep, and when their alarms went off, the men heaved a communal “fuck it” and rolled over.

West Hansen settles into his kayak for the day. Hansen is leading an expedition along the Texas coast, from South Padre Island to the Louisiana border. Pam LeBlanc photo

They slept for an hour or so more, and when they stepped out the air had stilled – and the mosquitos arrived.
In the end, they were left with two more or less surviving tents – the exact same eight-year-old North Face Topaz 3 models that Hansen used on a 111-day expedition down the entire length of the Amazon River.
They loaded up and paddled 14 miles into Rockport, where they’re now resting and doing boat maintenance at the home of Wayne White, a fellow Explorer Club member currently in his third year as station manager of the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station in Antarctica, and his wife Melissa.
Support crew are on their way with a new North Face tent, a heavier, bomb-proof model that sleeps five and is part of the gear for the Arctic Cowboy’s upcoming 2021 expedition to kayak the Northwest Passage in the Arctic.
“It’ll be a party. It’s got a disco ball,” Hansen said of the tent.
The boats sustained no storm damage, and the team was washing clothes and eating sandwiches as I spoke with them. (I headed back to Austin after weathering out the storm in Magnolia Beach, just up from where the guys were camped; I’ll be returning to the coast on Wednesday.)
What’s next, a zombie invasion?

Water pooled in the surviving tents. Jeff Wueste photo

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Can sustainably-caught tuna fuel an Arctic expedition?

Can sustainably-caught tuna fuel an Arctic expedition?

Safe Catch mailed me a couple of boxes of tuna and salmon packets to test. West Hansen photo

I care about fish and sustainability. I’m an avid scuba diver, and something about seeing fish in the wild makes the need to protect our wild fish populations personal for me.
I’m normally not a huge fan of the taste of canned tuna or salmon, but when Safe Catch, a company that uses environmentally sensible practices to catch the fish it packages and sells, contacted me to see if I’d test out their product, I wanted some local paddlers who are training for an expedition I’m involved with to try it.
West Hansen, leader of the Arctic Cowboys, accepted a box of the 2.6-ounce packets – an assortment of citrus pepper wild tuna, garlic herb wild tuna, chili lime wild tuna, Cajun wild tuna, elite wild tuna and citrus dill wild Pacific pink salmon. He ate a lot of tuna on his 2012 expedition down the Amazon River, and I wondered if the food might work for his upcoming 60-day kayaking expedition through the Northwest Passage. That adventure will take the team (and me) through orca- and polar bear-populated areas.

The Arctic Cowboys will need calorie dense, high protein food for their kayaking expedition through the Northwest Passage. West Hansen photo


The fish comes sealed in single-serving pouches, each with 21 to 24 grams of protein. They’re good for up to two years on pantry shelves.
“All equally great,” Hansen said after trying it out. He’s sometimes (but not always) a minimalist when it comes to words, and trying to drag out a little more description turned into an exercise of futility this time.
“They’re good. Convenient. A good source of protein. For our needs, though, the weight-to-calorie ratio may not be what we need. We need something more calorie dense.”
Also, he said it’s “too much to open and use a fork” while paddling. (I think ditching the utensil and tearing and squeezing the pouch into your mouth might work, but maybe my thumbs are more flexible then Hansen’s.)
Hansen went on to explain that taste doesn’t matter much to him, although he will argue until the end of time that a burger grilled over charcoal is far superior to one cooked on a gas grill.
“I’ve got low standards when it comes to taste,” he said. “I don’t care that much. Put (the Safe Catch) side by side with Chicken of the Sea and I’d choose it. I do like the fact that they put effort into making sure it’s more ethically sourced. I would like all fish companies to do what they do.”
I checked the Safe Catch website, which notes that the company supports the creation of new marine protected areas and donates to ocean conservation groups. The tuna and salmon packets sell for $35.99 for a 12-pack of 2.6-ounce pouches at www.safecatch.com.
Also, I learned that Safe Catch tests all its fish for mercury content, and its purity standards are higher than other companies. It sources its fish from fisheries that use sustainable fishing methods, doesn’t buy fish from boats that use fish aggregating devices, and only buys fish that comes with a certificate stating the catch was monitored by an independent observer.
Just one thing I’m wondering before the Arctic Express crew decides if it will bring some Safe Catch along – does it chum up polar bears and orca?

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Following the Arctic Cowboys to the coast for a shakedown run

Following the Arctic Cowboys to the coast for a shakedown run

Jimmy Harvey, left, Jeff Wueste, center, and West Hansen, right, drag their kayaks out of the surf at sunrise Saturday. Pam LeBlanc photo

Next summer, I’m heading north to track the Austin-based Arctic Cowboys as they attempt to become the first paddlers to kayak the entire Northwest Passage.

I’m pretty excited about that expedition. Covering big adventure tops the list of why I left my long-time and much loved job at the Austin American-Statesman to go freelance last fall.

Last weekend, Arctic Cowboys leader West Hansen, plus teammates Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and I, drove to Padre Island National Seashore so the guys could get some time in the surf in their Epic 18X kayaks.

West Hansen, leader of the Arctic Cowboys expedition, paddles into the surf at Padre Island National Seashore on Aug. 23, 2019. Pam LeBlanc photo

My job? Stand waist deep in the water and try not to flood my camera while taking shots of them in action. I needed the practice as much as they needed the shakedown run in their Epic 18X kayaks.

They learned a few things, like it’s difficult to right an unloaded sea kayak in the surf. The ballast keeps a boat steadier and easier to roll back to upright position.

West Hansen, Jeff Wueste and Jimmy Harvey pose after a training session at Padre Island National Seashore. Pam LeBlanc photo

We spent about four hours at the beach Friday night, then went back to the hotel, where Hansen and the others did their own version of that scene from “Jaws,” where everyone sits around and compares scars. Hansen won, revealing a jagged line on his leg where he impaled it on a chunk of glass as a kid.

West Hansen, leader of the Arctic Cowboys, prepares for a training session. Pam LeBlanc photo

We got up extra early Saturday morning and headed back to the beach for sunrise. My biggest takeaway from that? Leave the camera gear in the car overnight or it’ll never unfog when you pull it out at the beach.

West Hansen, front, and Jeff Wueste, back, practice paddling in rough surf. Pam LeBlanc photo

I’ve attached some of my favorite shots from the weekend. And look for a story in the Austin American-Statesman in the next few weeks about Hansen’s expeditions, and the Sept. 7 book signing for his upcoming account of his 2012 Amazon Express expedition.

That 111-day adventure took his team 4,100 miles down the world’s longest river. The Northwest Passage should feel short by comparison.

West Hansen lost his cowboy hat in the surf. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

 

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Austin Paddler West Hansen to release book about Amazon expedition at Sept. 7 event

Austin Paddler West Hansen to release book about Amazon expedition at Sept. 7 event

Amazon Express expedition leader West Hansencarries his kayak through a boulder field while negotiating the Rio Mantaro below Tablachaca Dam. Photo by Erich Schlegel

Seven years ago, Austin paddler West Hansen led an expedition down the Amazon River, navigating whitewater, encountering narco traffickers, getting held up multiple times and dodging boulders that rained from canyon walls as he followed the river from its source in the Peruvian Andes to the ocean.

West Hansen takes a break from writing in his journal during his 2012 paddling expedition on the Amazon River. Erich Schlegel photo

On Sept. 7, he’ll unveil his first book, which chronicles those adventures, at a signing at Zilker Clubhouse in Austin.

I’ve already gobbled up “Source to Sea, The Farthest Journey Down the World’s Longest River,” reading an early version via my iPhone during a surf trip to Costa Rica last year. (That says something. Who reads an entire 400-page book on a teeny screen unless it’s a pretty gripping account?)

The book takes readers on a twisting, 4,200-mile adventure from the high mountains to the jungle. Hansen, who moonlights as a social worker when he’s not paddling to all corners of the planet, manages to weave in regional history, drama with team members and a feud with National Geographic.

The book includes more than 90 color photos, graphics and maps, plus descriptions of encounters with wildlife and locals (friendly and non-friendly), visits to towns along the way and a peek at the life of a modern-day explorer out to claim a rare “first” in a world where people spend most of their time glued to computers and smart phones.

Pre-order the book by Aug. 15 at www.westhansen.comto guarantee delivery at the signing. (No pre-orders will be mailed, so if you order one you must pick it up at the event. The book will also be sold via Amazon.com, but for a higher price.)
The event begins at 6 p.m. Sept. 7 at the Zilker Clubhouse, 200 Zilker Clubhouse Road off of Rollingwood Drive.

 

 

 

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