I retired my roadie after 16 years – and bought a new gravel bike

I retired my roadie after 16 years – and bought a new gravel bike

I rode this Trek 5200 for 16 years. I finally put it out to pasture this week. Chris LeBlanc photo

I retired a trusty steed this week.
I’ve been pedaling a blue Trek 5200 since 2004. Back then, it was a top-of-the-line bike, roughly the same frame on which Lance Armstrong had won his 1999 Tour de France.
I was 40 years old when I bought it, paying a whopping $2,300. That seemed like a lot, but that old Trek became my primary mode of transportation for years. I’ve more than wrung my money out of it.
I logged 16 years of happy trails on that bike.
At first, I used it only for long-distance riding. I’d take it to the Hill Country, where I knocked out 60 or 70 miles at a time. It carried me from Houston to Austin for the MS150, then from Seattle to Portland. It was my go-to steed for the Willow City Loop in the Texas Hill Country each spring. A few years ago, I rode all the way across Iowa, pausing at corn on the cob stands, slip’n slides and pork chop trucks during RAGBRAI, the Register’s Annual Great Ride Across Iowa.
It became my primary commuter bike seven or eight years ago, whisking me from my home in Allandale to swim practice and the Austin American-Statesman four or five days a week. I rode it to interviews and restaurants, and everywhere in between.

Behold my new Specialized Diverge, a banana cream pie-colored gravel bike. Chris LeBlanc photo


This week, I finally gave up on that old bike. It had been nursed along enough years. The components were worn out. My spine felt every jolt; I needed something smoother.
Yesterday I came home with a new ride, one built to handle gravel roads. My new Specialized Diverge gives me shivers of happiness.
She’s the color of banana cream pie, and glides like a Rolls Royce.
And if she lasts as long as my last bike, I’ll be riding her until I’m 72.

She rides like a Rolls Royce. (At least I think she does. I’ve never ridden in a Rolls Royce.) Chris LeBlanc photo

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

Where is Pam?

Click to open a larger map

Follow Pam

Barton Springs and Deep Eddy close today until further notice

Barton Springs and Deep Eddy close today until further notice

Barton Springs and Deep Eddy pools are closed until further notice due to the spike in COVID-19 cases. Pam LeBlanc photo


If you were planning on a dip in Barton Springs Pool this July 4 weekend, you’ll have to make alternate plans.
With COVID-19 cases on the rise, the City of Austin has closed Barton Springs Pool and Deep Eddy Pool, effective today. The pools will remain closed until further notice.
All parks and recreational facilities, including city parks, golf courses, boat ramps, museums, gardens, preserves and tennis courts, will close Friday through Sunday, July 5. Pre-paid park admission passes will be refunded.
For a full listing of park closures, visit austintexas.gov/parkclosures.

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

Where is Pam?

Click to open a larger map

Follow Pam

Storm mangles tents, soaks gear, but paddlers continue up Texas coast

Storm mangles tents, soaks gear, but paddlers continue up Texas coast

The post storm wreckage of Branndon Bargo’s tent. Branndon Bargo photo

Add late night, tent-collapsing storms to puke-inducing rough seas, hideous chafing and ocean poops on the list of joys experienced by a group of Austin paddlers kayaking up the Texas coast.
The team endured its wildest night yet Sunday, and that’s saying something, considering they fended off drunk teen-agers one night and pitched tents on a crab-infested mudflat another.
West Hansen is leading the mini expedition, which started as an eight-day semi-serious training trip from the tip of Texas to the Louisiana border. They’ve made less than half that distance (no worries, they didn’t really have a hard-and-fast schedule) and already have burned up six days. One team member quit after four nights, joking that he was too old and wise for so much fun. Three others – veteran paddlers Jeff Wueste and Jimmy Harvey, along with mountain climber Branndon Bargo (of “The Highpointers” show on PBS) – are still plugging along and, it seems, actually savoring the seemingly endless barrage of discomforts.
Not long after I left the guys after camping with them near Bird Island Basin, they headed back into the Intercoastal Waterway, near Padre Island National Seashore.
A few hours later they paddled into Corpus Christi Bay with a tailwind, and zipped along until they reached open water, where they encountered foot-and-a-half rollers. The team veered right, hugging a line of spoil islands, then popped into the channel just south of Port Aransas. They sped as quickly as they could past the bustling ferry crossing and into rough water surrounding an industrial area. At nearly 8 p.m., they pulled ashore for the night.
After getting word of incoming inclement weather, they pitched camp, buttoned things up and went to sleep. Then, at about 12:30 a.m., things went from calm to crazy.
“This gust of wind came in and snapped my tent pole,” Bargo said today. “Then the pole pierced the rainfly and collapsed it all on top of me.”
Temperatures dropped by 20 degrees and rain sliced sideways through camp. Wearing nothing but his underpants, Bargo staggered out into the elements to wrangle his kayak on top of his flattened tent, pinning it like a calf at a rodeo. After hollering at a still-sleeping Wueste, he retrieved his sodden sleeping bag and fled to Harvey’s still-standing-but-now-leaking tent, where they rode out the next four hours, cold and wet.

A cold, wet Branndon Bargo surveys camp after a violent storm ripped through. Jeff Wueste photo

Hansen, meanwhile, was busy directing his own three-ring circus. The first wave of wind and rain laid his tent down but didn’t kill it. A second, stronger wave yanked up a couple of stakes securing the tent’s fly cover, which began flapping violently. He strained to hold the tent poles in place to keep the shelter from blowing down.
Then Wueste ditched his own wounded structure and came knocking at Hansen’s tent flaps. Hansen sent him out to tie the shuddering shelter to the bow of a boat, and the two huddled inside, using their body weight to hold the tent, its stakes now plucked from the ground like feathers from a chicken, down.
The vestibule flaps slapped Wueste’s face, the rain pooled at one end of the tent, and the storm blasted the team until 4:40 a.m. They finally went to sleep, and when their alarms went off, the men heaved a communal “fuck it” and rolled over.

West Hansen settles into his kayak for the day. Hansen is leading an expedition along the Texas coast, from South Padre Island to the Louisiana border. Pam LeBlanc photo

They slept for an hour or so more, and when they stepped out the air had stilled – and the mosquitos arrived.
In the end, they were left with two more or less surviving tents – the exact same eight-year-old North Face Topaz 3 models that Hansen used on a 111-day expedition down the entire length of the Amazon River.
They loaded up and paddled 14 miles into Rockport, where they’re now resting and doing boat maintenance at the home of Wayne White, a fellow Explorer Club member currently in his third year as station manager of the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station in Antarctica, and his wife Melissa.
Support crew are on their way with a new North Face tent, a heavier, bomb-proof model that sleeps five and is part of the gear for the Arctic Cowboy’s upcoming 2021 expedition to kayak the Northwest Passage in the Arctic.
“It’ll be a party. It’s got a disco ball,” Hansen said of the tent.
The boats sustained no storm damage, and the team was washing clothes and eating sandwiches as I spoke with them. (I headed back to Austin after weathering out the storm in Magnolia Beach, just up from where the guys were camped; I’ll be returning to the coast on Wednesday.)
What’s next, a zombie invasion?

Water pooled in the surviving tents. Jeff Wueste photo

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

Where is Pam?

Click to open a larger map

Follow Pam

Yesterday’s rain served up a big bump on today’s river run

Yesterday’s rain served up a big bump on today’s river run

Jimmy Harvey paddles down the Colorado River between Bastrop and Smithville on Wednesday, May 15. Tuesday’s storms upped the river flow. Pam LeBlanc photo


Yesterday’s rains gave me and veteran paddler Jimmy Harvey a nice push down the Colorado River today.
Jimmy loaned me a one-man racing canoe and he climbed into his Epic kayak for the 25-mile trip from Fisherman’s Park in Bastrop to the Highway 230 Bridge in Smithville, highlighted by a snake encounter, collapsing riverbanks, huge birds and more.
I’m working on getting my paddling legs back. Nearly a year has passed since the 2019 Texas Water Safari, a 260-mile race from San Marcos to Seadrift on the Texas Coast. Memories of the sore butt, the log jams, the hordes of spiders and hallucinations haven’t quite faded, but today’s run reminded me how much I love the river and the paddling community.

Jimmy Harvey paddles past some trees twisted and torn in Tuesday’s storms. Pam LeBlanc photo


Flow hovered between 4,500 and 4,800 cubic feet per second along the way – almost triple Tuesday’s flow rates. That made it a relatively quick, four-and-a-half-hour excursion.
We stopped for a pee break at a little spot Jimmy jokingly called Snake Island. I scrambled out for my break, and when I climbed back in my boat I nearly paddled over the top of a glistening water moccasin napping in the reeds.
About midway through the run, we spotted a hassock-sized bundle of sticks in the top of a dead tree along the bank. A few minutes later, a bald eagle flapped past. We’d apparently seen its nest.
And as we approached Smithville, we noticed a bunch of trees, some knocked over, others with huge limbs twisted and torn. A tornado reportedly swept through the area yesterday; this must have been damage from the winds.
We also saw blue herons and soft-shelled turtles, mooing cows and red dirt banks, including a portion of one that buckled and slid into the water as we paddled past.

Jimmy Harvey gives me a little advice as we put in at Fisherman’s Park on Wednesday. Pam LeBlanc photo


The best part, though? When Jimmy called me over and told me to stop for a moment.
“Put your paddle down,” he said. “You can’t hear any human noises. Just the wind, the river and the birds.”

And that’s why I can’t wait to get back out there.

I paddled Jimmy’s one-man Landick racing canoe for the trip. Jimmy Harvey photo

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

Where is Pam?

Click to open a larger map

Follow Pam

Back in the canoe, ready for a long(ish) run

Back in the canoe, ready for a long(ish) run

I took Jimmy Harvey’s Landick one-person canoe out for a test run on Lady Bird Lake today. Photo by Jimmy Harvey


I’m getting back in the boat this week to do some research for an upcoming magazine article.
I’ll be paddling about 26 miles from Fisherman’s Park in Bastrop to Smithville, but it’s been a few months since I’ve spent time in a boat. Also, now’s not the time to paddle a tandem (there’s that whole social distancing deal), so I’m borrowing a solo boat from veteran paddler Jimmy Harvey, who has raced the grueling Texas Water Safari more times than I can wrap my brain around. (I did the race for the first time last year and still can’t believe I survived the 260-mile gauntlet of log jams, alligator gar, mud and mayflies.)

Jimmy Harvey is part of the Arctic Cowboys team of paddlers from Austin, who will be paddling up the Texas coast in a few weeks. Pam LeBlanc photo

I met Jimmy down at Lake Austin today, to take his boat out for a spin. I wondered if the sleek-looking Landick racing canoe might toss me like a bucking bronco, but I managed to stay dry. I also discovered that the boat, despite its narrow front half, swells like a curvy woman at the hips, so it can tip really far without dumping its driver (me.)
The boat’s got a rudder, too, which makes it super easy to steer. I made two laps – one with a single blade, another with the dreaded shoulder-busting double. The boat felt nimble and I didn’t run over anyone, so it’s all systems go for Wednesday’s longer run.
I’m packing a lunch, my camera gear, a cowboy hat and lots of energy, and looking forward to seeing a stretch of the Colorado River I’ve never paddled.
Adventure in the time of a pandemic tastes all the sweeter.

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

Where is Pam?

Click to open a larger map

Follow Pam