BBQ on an oyster reef, a new tent, dolphins and a swimming snake…

BBQ on an oyster reef, a new tent, dolphins and a swimming snake…

Branndon Bargo, West Hansen and Jeff Wueste pulled their kayaks onto an oyster reef in the Intracoastal Waterway near Port O’Connor Tuesday and ate barbecue from Peter’s BBQ in Ellinger. Jimmy Harvey photo

I’m driving back down to the coast today, after taking a day off to catch up on other projects here in Austin.
In the meantime, I checked in by phone with West Hansen, leader of the Third Coast Cowboys Epic Kayak trip from South Padre Island to the Louisiana border. Hansen, along with Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and Branndon Bargo, began their mini-expedition a week ago. They’re about halfway through the 385-mile trip.
Hansen described Tuesday’s 37.4 mile-paddle from Rockport north along the Intracoastal Waterway as calm. After a late 8:30 a.m. start, the team crossed two bays. They stopped for lunch on an oyster reef about the size of a backyard trampoline, munching on brisket and ribs from Peter’s BBQ in Ellinger (delivered by Hansen’s wife the previous evening). They got rid of the tents ruined in the Sunday night storm and debuted a new, sturdier North Face tent that’s not as breathable, but less likely to blow down in a storm.
Hansen took a few minutes to answer some questions from readers, too:

What are you eating? “We’ve all got different appetite issues. I’m not hungry at all. The other guys get hungry. But I’m eating two packs of instant oatmeal (apple cinnamon) and two cups of instant coffee for breakfast, and a 1,600-calorie protein drink as I’m paddling in the morning. For lunch it’s a can of tuna, trail mix, nuts, Cholula sauce, water and electrolyte pills, and for dinner, dehydrated meals. Sometimes I’ll eat two.”

How’s that chafed patch of skin on your lower back? “It’s the standard thing.” (I watched him apply anti-bacterial ointment the other day.)

West Hansen’s back is chafing from rubbing against the seat in his kayak. Pam LeBlanc photo

What other physical issues are you dealing with? “We’re all starting to lose fingernails, they’re getting loose. Everybody snores; no one cares. It feels really good to put foot powder on at night.”

What do y’all talk about all day while you’re paddling? “Music, trivia, navigation.”

Do you paddle all together as a group? “Jimmy paddles all by himself up ahead. We all stay within sight distance.”

What’s your average speed? “3.8-4 mph.”

How do you keep clean? “Jimmy stinks.” And from a disembodied voice in the background: “I bathed in Dawn dishwashing liquid!”

How’s Branndon doing? (Bargo is new to sea kayaking, and struggled early on with sea sickness.): “Brandon’s paddling has improved, yeah, I can say that. He started with not much experience and he’s really stepped up. He’s learning quickly so we’re all very proud of him.”

What wildlife did you see Tuesday? “Lots of dolphins, and Jimmy saw a snake swimming across the channel. Redfish tailing. We paddled past Aransas National Wildlife Refuge. We need a breeze tonight to get rid of the mosquitoes.”

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Check out photos of the Third Coast Cowboy Epic Kayak trip up the Texas coast

Check out photos of the Third Coast Cowboy Epic Kayak trip up the Texas coast

I’ve been camping and snapping photos of West Hansen and the Third Coast Cowboy Epic Kayak journey this week. After making 40 miles yesterday, they started paddling before 7 a.m. today. We’re planning to meet them at Bird Island near Padre Island National Seashore to check on them, get some quotes and take some photos. Here are a few of my favorites so far…

West Hansen and Tim Curry paddle into Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen takes a breather after reaching Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 23. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jimmy Harvey and West Hansen paddle into Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 21, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

The team leaves Mansfield Cut on Friday May 23. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jeff Wueste heats water for dinner while camping at Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 21. Pam LeBlanc photo

Branndon Bargo relaxes after a rough day on the water. He swallowed water and puked a lot during the day. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jason Jones, who’s been driving with me to chase the team, sleeps on an enormous queen-sized inflatable mattress at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

The team pulls their boats ashore at Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 21. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jimmy Harvey wrings water out of a cloth as he wipes down his kayak. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen makes a call from the top of a sand dune at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jason Jones makes friends with Xena the Warrior Princess while camping at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

Tim Curry paddles toward shore on Thursday, May 21. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jimmy Harvey laughs while cooking dinner at camp. He’s eating my favorite – Packit Gourmet, which is made in Austin. Pam LeBlanc photo

The team – Branndon Bargo, Jeff Wueste, Tim Curry, Jimmy Harvey and West Hansen, at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jimmy Harvey cooks dehydrated chili by Packit Gourmet while camping on night two of the Third Coast Cowboy Epic Kayak journey. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen washes ashore at Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 21. Pam LeBlanc photo

I found a handful of sanddollars and seashells at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

Sunrise at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

A closer look at JJ’s sleeping arrangements. Pam LeBlanc photo[/caption

[caption width="1600" id="attachment_1513" align="alignnone"] West Hansen moves closer after Jeff Wueste flipped his kayak in rough seas. Pam LeBlanc photo

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Austin paddlers gear up for sprint up Texas coast

Austin paddlers gear up for sprint up Texas coast

West Hansen, left, and Branndon Bargo go for a shakeout run on Lady Bird Lake on Sunday, May 17. Pam LeBlanc photo

Five Texas paddlers are heading to the Third Coast this week to paddle from Boca Chica Beach in Brownsville to Sabine Pass near Port Arthur.
I’m tagging along on that mini-expedition, which should take about eight days, but not in a boat. I’ll be on shore, chasing the team, camping on the beach, and documenting the adventure as it unfolds.

West Hansen is leading a 385-mile paddling trip up the Texas Coast starting on Wednesday. He went for a training run on Lady Bird Lake this morning. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen, who led a 2012 paddling expedition more than 4,000 miles down the length of the Amazon River, heads up the team, which also includes Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey, Branndon Bargo, and Tim Curry. Hansen, Wueste and Harvey are part of the upcoming Arctic Cowboys expedition to kayak the Northwest Passage.
Collectively, they haul around boatloads of experience. Hansen has finished the grueling 260-mile Texas Water Safari canoe race 20 times and won the Missouri River 340 as a solo paddler. He’s also a member of the prestigious Explorers Club, whose members include astronauts, mountain climbers and underwater explorers. The other paddlers are experienced canoe racers and Safari veterans, too.

Jimmy Harvey, in red, is part of the Cowboys’ Third Coast Kayak trip starting next week. Pam LeBlanc photo


They’ll cover roughly 385 miles on the next week’s Texas trip, paddling outside the third sandbar as they go to avoid the worst of the surge and wave action. I’m bringing my swim gear, so I can log some ocean miles while I wait for them to come in. (As a side note, we’ve all gotten COVID-19 tests, to make sure we don’t cross infect one another along the way. And we’ll practice social distancing.)
I managed to stay upright this morning while simultaneously wrangling cameras and paddling a racing canoe alongside the guys as they chugged up and down Lady Bird Lake on a shakeout run.
Check my blog for updates.

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Yesterday’s rain served up a big bump on today’s river run

Yesterday’s rain served up a big bump on today’s river run

Jimmy Harvey paddles down the Colorado River between Bastrop and Smithville on Wednesday, May 15. Tuesday’s storms upped the river flow. Pam LeBlanc photo


Yesterday’s rains gave me and veteran paddler Jimmy Harvey a nice push down the Colorado River today.
Jimmy loaned me a one-man racing canoe and he climbed into his Epic kayak for the 25-mile trip from Fisherman’s Park in Bastrop to the Highway 230 Bridge in Smithville, highlighted by a snake encounter, collapsing riverbanks, huge birds and more.
I’m working on getting my paddling legs back. Nearly a year has passed since the 2019 Texas Water Safari, a 260-mile race from San Marcos to Seadrift on the Texas Coast. Memories of the sore butt, the log jams, the hordes of spiders and hallucinations haven’t quite faded, but today’s run reminded me how much I love the river and the paddling community.

Jimmy Harvey paddles past some trees twisted and torn in Tuesday’s storms. Pam LeBlanc photo


Flow hovered between 4,500 and 4,800 cubic feet per second along the way – almost triple Tuesday’s flow rates. That made it a relatively quick, four-and-a-half-hour excursion.
We stopped for a pee break at a little spot Jimmy jokingly called Snake Island. I scrambled out for my break, and when I climbed back in my boat I nearly paddled over the top of a glistening water moccasin napping in the reeds.
About midway through the run, we spotted a hassock-sized bundle of sticks in the top of a dead tree along the bank. A few minutes later, a bald eagle flapped past. We’d apparently seen its nest.
And as we approached Smithville, we noticed a bunch of trees, some knocked over, others with huge limbs twisted and torn. A tornado reportedly swept through the area yesterday; this must have been damage from the winds.
We also saw blue herons and soft-shelled turtles, mooing cows and red dirt banks, including a portion of one that buckled and slid into the water as we paddled past.

Jimmy Harvey gives me a little advice as we put in at Fisherman’s Park on Wednesday. Pam LeBlanc photo


The best part, though? When Jimmy called me over and told me to stop for a moment.
“Put your paddle down,” he said. “You can’t hear any human noises. Just the wind, the river and the birds.”

And that’s why I can’t wait to get back out there.

I paddled Jimmy’s one-man Landick racing canoe for the trip. Jimmy Harvey photo

About Pam

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