Austin paddler Hansen slogs on during Day 2 of Great Alabama 650

Austin paddler Hansen slogs on during Day 2 of Great Alabama 650

West Hansen takes a breather after reaching Matagorda Cut while paddling up the Texas coast in this file photo taken on May 23, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

Rain is still falling in Alabama, where West Hansen is running side by side with another veteran solo paddler, Salli O’Donnell, in the Greater Alabama 650 paddling race.

The two are tied for second place in the long-distance race, which starts in northeastern Alabama and finishes at Fort Morgan in Mobile Bay.

At 9:30 p.m. Sunday, the two veteran paddlers – both leading their classes – had paddled 195 miles of the 650-mile race. After more than a day and a half of paddling nearly non-stop, both looked stiff and shaky getting out of their boats at an evening portage, par for the course in long-distance paddling events.

The route of what’s called The World’s Longest Annual Paddle Race follows the Coosa and Alabama rivers, passing Montgomery and Selma as it winds its way toward the Gulf of Mexico. Along the way, paddlers alternately encounter swift moving rivers, slack-water lakes and, at the end, a tidal delta.

Read more: Great Alabama 650 gets off to a soggy start

Hansen, 59, and O’Donnell, who finished first solo female and second overall in last year’s Great Alabama 650, are chasing a tandem team paddled by last year’s winners, Joe Mann and Paul Cox. They spent much of the day tied for third place, but tonight caught the second place boat, a tandem paddled by Bobby Johnson and Rod Price.

“We’re moving the pawns around in a long chess game,” support crew member Robert Youens said from the riverbank Sunday afternoon.

Unlike the Texas Water Safari, which Hansen has completed 21 times, this race is so long that racers must stop and sleep along the way. Hansen caught two hours of sleep Saturday night and will likely stop to sleep for a few hours again tonight.

O’Donnell has completed the race twice and is familiar with the course. It may be to Hansen’s advantage to stick with her, at least for now. “She knows the course and in some of these big lakes it just makes sense to run with someone who’s done it twice,” Youens said.

“I think it’s helping them keep the pace up and enjoy the race,” Youens said. “They’re extremely focused on working together to reel in the lead teams.”

Read more: When West Hansen needs a break from society, he goes with the flow

 Almost a third of the way through the Great Alabama 650

The leaders are about a third of the way through the race, which Mann and Cox won last year in just under six days.

The racers have been running ahead of pace so far, but more rain is expected tonight. “It’s going to get ugly,” Youens said.

Some of the portages that were designated drive-around portages have been switched to walking portages because roads are too muddy for vehicles to traverse. And an upcoming stretch of what would normally be whitewater is expected to be washed out because the river is flowing at more than 22,000 cubic feet per second, Youens said.

Hansen’s support crew meets him roughly every 20 to 30 miles. Today they spotted a snake at one of the portages; they’ve dealt with mud and slippery rocks, too. Their job, besides keeping him fed and hydrated, is to keep him as comfortable as possible. That means changing clothes, offering lubrication to ease chafing, and cheering him on.

“When we see him, we clean him up and lube him up,” Youens said.

Hansen’s paddling resume is extensive. He led an expedition down the entire Amazon River in 2012 and the entire Volga River two years later. He’s finished the Texas Water Safari, a 260-mile race from Spring Lake in San Marcos to the Texas coast, 21 times, and has wins at the Missouri River 340.

 

 

 

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Great Alabama 650 gets off to a soggy start

Great Alabama 650 gets off to a soggy start

alabama 650

Austin paddler West Hansen readies one of his boats before the start of the Great Alabama 650 paddling race. Robert Youens photo

Nine hours into a soggy race, Austin paddler West Hansen is leading the men’s division of the Great Alabama 650 paddling race.

The 650-mile race started in a downpour at Weiss Lake in northeastern Alabama, and Hansen and the other racers have paddled through a steady rain all day.

As Hansen approached a feeding zone at Mile 63.7 tonight, the rain had finally stopped, at least temporarily.

The overall race leaders – a tandem boat paddled by Joe Mann and Paul Cox, who won last year’s event – passed the checkpoint a little after 7 p.m. Hansen and another solo paddler, Salli O’Donnell, were about 5 miles back. The rest of the racers had spread out behind the three lead boats.

So far the teams have made one portage. Hansen stopped briefly to change into dry clothes and swap boats, a strategic move that will allow him to change up seating position.

Read more: With Arctic expedition postponed, West Hansen heads to Alabama for 650-mile paddling race

The area is under a flash flood morning. The river level has risen about 2.5 feet, according to Robert Youens, part of Hansen’s support crew, likely because of dam releases upstream. That’s giving the paddlers a boost – Hansen was maintaining a pace close to 7.9 mph.

alabama 650 start

The Great Alabama 650 paddling race started this morning in a driving rain. Photo by Robert Youens

He is expected to reach the first dam, where competitors are required to take a 45-minute layover break, before midnight tonight. Hansen will nap briefly in a support vehicle before returning to his boat.

“We’re actually ahead of our schedule by an hour,” Youens said. “One, they’re paddling fast, and two, they have really nice water.”

Hansen was relaxed and prepared leading up to the race, managing to sneak in an afternoon nap yesterday. The race began at 10 a.m. today.

The race finishes at Fort Morgan, west of Orange Beach at the Gulf of Mexico. Last year’s winners finished the race in just under six days.

Hansen paddled the entire Amazon River in 2012 and the entire Volga River in Russia two years la

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Arctic Cowboys focused on Texas Water Safari for now

Arctic Cowboys focused on Texas Water Safari for now

 

Veteran canoe racers Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and West Hansen, left to right, pull into the boat ramp near Austin High School after a training run for the Texas Water Safari. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen sloshed out of Lady Bird Lake yesterday, helped his teammates pull their three-person racing canoe ashore, and wiped the sweat from his face.

Hansen, who paddled the entire length of the Amazon River in 2012 and followed that up by paddling the whole Volga River in Russia two years later, learned something during the 10-plus mile training run: The boat’s trim is off, and the canoe racers need to make some adjustments to get the balance right.

“We’ll work on that by moving Jeff’s seat,” Hansen said after pulling the long, torpedo-shaped canoe, with the name That’s What She Said in bright green letters on the side, out of the water.

That’s easy stuff.

West Hansen, head of the Arctic Cowboys, paddled the entire Amazon River in 2012. Pam LeBlanc photo

The team is training for the upcoming Texas Water Safari, a grueling 260-mile paddling race from San Marcos to the town of Seadrift on the Texas coast. Paddlers in that race face everything from bobbing mats of logs to smallish alligators and swarms of biting insects as they make their way down the San Marcos and Guadalupe Rivers toward the finish line, many of them going without sleep for two or more days.

But these three paddlers – Hansen, Wueste and local pool business owner Jimmy Harvey – have a bigger mission hovering on the horizon. Hansen ultimately plans to lead the trio, dubbed the Arctic Cowboys, on a 1,900-mile kayaking expedition through the Northwest Passage in the Arctic.

Covid has cast some uncertainty on timing of that expedition. The trip hinges on how soon the Canadian government allows access into Nunavut, populated by the native Inuit people. The Northwest Passage, between Tuktoyaktuk and Pond Inlet, is currently closed due to the pandemic. Hansen is hopeful an efficient rollout of Covid-19 vaccine could allow them to make their attempt this summer, and says the team is “continuing to hurry up and wait.”

Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and West Hansen paddled more than 10 miles on Lady Bird Lake to prepare for the upcoming Texas Water Safari in June. Pam LeBlanc photo

In the meantime, yesterday’s much warmer training run showed them some scenery they won’t see in the Canadian Arctic Archipelago: Throngs of people on standup paddleboards, kayaks, inflatable rafts, canoes and rowing sculls, enjoying the balmy day.

And not a single chunk of floating ice or polar bear.

 

 

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Arctic Cowboys test gear in snowy Austin before planned Northwest Passage paddle expedition

Arctic Cowboys test gear in snowy Austin before planned Northwest Passage paddle expedition

West Hansen and Jimmy Harvey paddle Lady Bird Lake on a rare snowy day in Austin, Texas. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen wriggled into a dry suit Monday, squeezing his head and wrists through tight gaskets designed to keep out water, then snapped a neoprene spray skirt into place before climbing into his torpedo-shaped kayak.

Hansen, who is gearing up to lead a kayaking expedition across the Northwest Passage later this year, wanted to test out his cold weather equipment. That meant loading an 18-foot Epic sea kayak covered with half a foot of snow onto his vehicle and heading to Lady Bird Lake in downtown Austin, where he tugged on a knit hat and attached pogies – insulated mittens that look like oven mitts – to his double-blade paddle.

Everything went as planned, and Hansen and fellow Arctic Cowboy Jimmy Harvey logged a couple of hours of urban paddling on one of the coldest days in Austin history. Temperatures hovered in the 20s as the two slid their boats into the water near Austin High School, paddled up to Loop 1 (MoPac), blew down to Congress Avenue, then glided into Barton Creek, where steam rose off the water surface and snow clung to branches arched overhead.

Chances are, the temperatures they braved in Austin yesterday were colder than what they’ll face during their expedition, tentatively planned for summer 2021. High temperatures in Tuktoyaktuk, at the western edge of their 1,900-mile route, average about 61 in July. Temperatures in Pond Inlet, near the eastern edge of the route, are colder, about 52 degrees.

“Our faces were a little cold, but other than that it was nice and toasty,” Hansen said of yesterday’s shake out.

West Hansen pulls on the top of his dry suit. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jimmy Harvey prepares to paddle. The insulated mittens attached to his paddle are called “pogies.” Pam LeBlanc photo

There will be differences, though. The winds in the Arctic will probably be stronger, creating colder wind chills, and the wildlife more dangerous. The Cowboys will likely encounter polar bears, which can smell their prey a kilometer away and swim up to 6 mph, as they kayak across the passage. They could also face orcas, storms and cracking sea ice.

Hansen hasn’t determined yet which direction they’ll make the roughly two-month trip. That will depend on how quickly the ice breaks up as summer begins, and how soon the Canadian government allows access into Nunavut, populated by the native Inuit people. And that all depends on how well Covid vaccine rollout goes.

“We’re gearing up as if we’re going, communicating with the Canadian government, and reaching out to different scientific organizations that need testing done to link with them,” Hansen said. “We’re treating it as if we’re going, and hopefully in next few months things will change with Covid.”

West Hansen and Jimmy Harvey paddle Barton Creek in downtown Austin on Feb. 15, 2021. Pam LeBlanc photo

Hansen, who became the first person to paddle 4,200 miles from a newly discovered source of the Amazon River to the sea in 2012, doesn’t seem worried about the potential hazards. He endured colder conditions in Russia in 2014, when he and Jeff Wueste, the third member of the Arctic Cowboys team, paddled the entire Volga River. And river bandits, whitewater rapids and an injured shoulder didn’t stop his Amazon trip.

As for the nippy Austin run?
“It was nice,” he said. “And we saw a cross country skier.”

That skier was gliding along the Butler Trail around Lady Bird Lake as they pulled their boats out.

West Hansen and Jimmy Harvey launch their kayaks near Austin High School on Feb. 15, 2021. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

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Third Coast Cowboys finish strong at Louisiana border

Third Coast Cowboys finish strong at Louisiana border

The 3rd Coast Cowboys pull into Walter Umphrey Park outside Port Arthur on June 1, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo


West Hansen pulled his kayak up the boat ramp at Walter Umphrey State Park in Port Arthur at about 5 p.m. Monday, stepped around a dead fish and greeted the small crowd of family members gathered there to cheer him in.
“Well, that’s done,” he said, 13 days of stubble bristling from his chin.
Hansen, 58, and four other paddlers left the tip of South Padre Island on May 20, then spent two days chugging through swells and chop in the Gulf of Mexico before shifting into the Intracoastal Waterway for the rest of the trip up the Texas coast. Tim Curry dropped out after four days, but the others – Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and Branndon Bargo – celebrated Monday afternoon by sharing stories and eating homemade chicken, potato salad and cookies in the shadow of the Sabine Lake Causeway Bridge between Texas and Louisiana. The 3rd Coast Cowboys Epic Kayak Journey covered 420 miles in all, and the kayakers paddled an estimated 65,000 to 70,000 strokes most days.

The team paddles past a barge in the Intracoastal Waterway near Matagorda, Texas. Pam LeBlanc photo


The paddlers spent their final night in cattle pens at a grassy crossing of the ICW about 5 miles northeast of the State Highway 124 bridge, lulled to sleep by croaking bull frogs, under the watchful gaze of a 6-foot alligator. Paddling into Port Arthur that last day, they went through another downpour, and steady headwinds.
“It was hard,” Harvey said while driving back to Austin a few hours later. “Today was a slog because the wind was blowing in our face all day and it felt like we were going upstream.”
Hansen originally guessed that the trip would take eight days; that stretched to 13 when the team encountered stiff winds, coastal squalls and swells so big they lost sight of one another. Instead of 50 miles – the distance Hansen covered on an average day during his 2012 Amazon Express expedition down the entire length of the Amazon River – they paddled closer to 35 miles.
“Was there ever a moment you wanted to quit?” someone asked Hansen as he feasted at the finish.
“Yeah, every one,” joked Hansen, his nose sunburned and lower back rubbed raw from his seat.
Besides challenging conditions in the Gulf, the team endured a series of storms, including one that wrecked several tents, swarms of mosquitos, and enough sticky ooze at one campsite to host a mud-wrestling competition. They also paddled alongside pods of dolphins, pitched tents on spoil islands covered in lush green and rust-colored grass, and watched serene sunrises and sunsets. One night Hansen sang songs from his tent; each morning they gathered for coffee before pushing back into the liquid highway. Along the way they swapped stories, tried to trip each other up with riddles, and pondered trivia questions.

The sun rises over a spoil island where the team camped along Matagorda Bay. Pam LeBlanc photo


They also met people, including a friendly fisherman who shared bags of fresh fruit, someone who needed a hand righting an overturned bathroom, and a constable who escorted the kayakers around a construction zone to replace the last operating swing bridge in the state. In the busy Galveston Harbor they paused to admire the three-masted Elissa, a tall sailing ship launched in 1877, before sprinting across the Galveston Ship Channel to Bolivar Peninsula, where they camped on a beach strewn with litter.

The team stops to admire the Elissa in the Galveston Harbor. Pam LeBlanc photo

Thirteen days into the adventure, the paddlers finished strong and looked happy.
I’m writing about the adventure for a statewide magazine. I’ll share details when it publishes.

West Hansen paddles through Matagorda Bay. Pam LeBlanc photo

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