For a leisurely paddle with a chicken kicker, try the Llano River near Castell

For a leisurely paddle with a chicken kicker, try the Llano River near Castell

Chris LeBlanc drains water out of our canoe midway through a paddle on the Llano River near Castell. Pam LeBlanc photo

Two weeks after the Texas Water Safari, I got back in a canoe – but this time I didn’t care how fast I paddled or how far I went.

I didn’t see any alligators, I didn’t hallucinate, I didn’t even have to crawl over giant bobbing mats of logs, branches, dead farm animals and palm-sized spiders, either.

My husband Chris and I just lazily paddled our wide, roomy aluminum canoe 12 easy miles down the Llano River, from Highway 87 to Castell. We flopped in the water to cool off, admired the birds (cardinals, blue herons, hawks and blue jays) and paused on gravel bars to snack on fresh cherries and drink lemonade. We finished by eating a smoked chicken on a picnic table outside the Castell General Store.

It felt great.

Chris LeBlanc positions our canoe after a shallow stretch on the Llano River near Castell on June 23, 2019. Pam LeBlanc photo

Pam LeBlanc enjoys not paddling hard during a lazy trip on the Llano River on June 23, 2019. Chris LeBlanc photo

The river spooled out like a greenish-gray ribbon, wide and languid at times, twisted and churning at others. Sections reminded us of minefields, with so many boulders, many of them hidden just beneath the surface (at cfs 161) that we couldn’t see them until we slammed into them. Our canoe now boasts dimples and crinkles, like a smiling old man who spent his life in the beating sun.

The most challenging portion of the run came just before Castell. We had to walk our canoe through a series of rocky rapids. I smashed my shins nicely, and the water threatened to drag us downstream.

Chris LeBlanc submerges himself during a break in a paddling trip on the Llano River on June 23, 2019. Pam LeBlanc photo

Looking for a leisurely paddle trip? The Llano River might fit the bill, but if you go, I’ve got some recommendations.

  1. Consider paddling plastic kayaks instead of a canoe. The river is rocky and braided in this stretch, and we put some impressive dings in our metal canoe.
  2. Bring lots of water. This stretch of river will take you longer to paddle than you think. I’m used to a 5 mile per hour pace on the San Marcos; here we averaged closer to 2.5 to 3 miles per hour, because we had to get out and drag a lot. Plus, we were in no rush.
  3. Use dry bags. You might flip your boat. Seriously. Secure cell phones, cameras, food – anything you don’t want doused in river water – inside a watertight bag.
  4. Relax! Sit back and enjoy the scenery. It’s beautiful, and even on a Sunday we saw just one other boat.
  5. Arrange a shuttle. We left our truck at the Highway 87 underpass at the river, then arranged to have someone drive us back to pick it up when we finished.
  6. Bring personal flotation devices. You’ll encounter rapids and fast moving water, and you never know when you could knock your head on a rock or get caught by a tree branch.
  7. Don’t trash the river. Carry out what you brought in. Even better, carry out trash you find along the way and leave the river cleaner than when you found it.
  8. Want chicken at the finish? Call Randy at The Castell General Store in the morning and ask him to reserve one, otherwise they’ll probably be sold out.

Chris LeBlanc ate half a smoked chicken at the Castell General Store after paddling 12 miles on the Llano River. Pam LeBlanc photo

Chris LeBlanc refuels with smoked chicken. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

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I can’t believe how long it takes to recover from the Texas Water Safari

I can’t believe how long it takes to recover from the Texas Water Safari

Pam LeBlanc nibbles cold tangerine slices a few minutes after finishing the 2019 Texas Water Safari. Photo by Chris LeBlanc

The rash has mostly disappeared from my butt, and the blisters are peeling from my fingers and palms. Nearly two weeks out from the start of the Texas Water Safari, I’m finally feeling human again.

Holy guacamole. I underestimated the recovery period for an ultra-endurance paddling race.

The Safari, billed as “the World’s Toughest Canoe Race,” started June 8 in San Marcos. Nearly 180 boats lined up at Spring Lake, then started paddling 260 miles down the San Marcos and Guadalupe rivers toward Seadrift on the Texas coast. It took my team of three – veteran paddlers Heather Harrison and Sheila Reiter and me – a little more than 53 hours to finish.

Truly, I had no idea it would take so long to feel normal again. But it turns out that sleep deprivation (we didn’t snooze along the way, so were awake about 56 hours straight) and non-stop paddling do weird things to your body.

Adrenaline got me up last Tuesday, the day after the race, for the banquet and awards ceremony, but after that I slept – a lot. I had to go to New Orleans for a wedding, and my husband drove while I slept most of the way there and most of the way back. Most of my sleep has been zombie like, but for the past four days I’ve popped awake in the wee hours, dreaming that I was still paddling down a dark tunnel of river.

The weird wrinkly skin on my feet smoothed out in a day. I’ve got splotches of poison ivy and strips of sunburned skin around my ankles and on my hands. The tips of my ears peeled. My shoulders are still exhausted. I returned to regular swim practice this week, but I’m slow and feeble, which has been frustrating.

If you look closely, you can see the wrinkly state of my feet. Like staying in a pool too long. Photo by Chris LeBlanc

I’m mentally exhausted, too. The moment after I climbed the steps at the finish, I told my husband, “I’m never doing that again.”

But the mind is funny. At first, I could only remember the bad parts – the heat index of 110, the nausea that coursed through my body at the sight of a cold piece of bacon wrapped in a tortilla and shoved in a baggie, the trees that morphed into leering cartoon characters, the way my ass felt like I was sitting on broken glass, peeing in a moving canoe for the umpteenth time, the mental lows and grumpiness that swept over our team at times and the feeling that all I wanted was to get off that damn boat.

But my brain has already started its editing job. I keep wondering how we could have done better if I hadn’t gotten sick, or if I’d eaten different food, or taken more electrolyte caplets. I want to know how it would feel to race on a bigger boat, with a team of four or five. I liked the almost feral feeling I got from paddling down a river, clambering up and over muddy banks like a wild animal, and dragging the boat through mats of bobbing logs.

Honestly, I need more time to process what just happened. And maybe another nap.

 

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Premiere set for film about paddling Lower Canyons of Rio Grande

Premiere set for film about paddling Lower Canyons of Rio Grande

Carl Crum’s documentary about the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande will premiere June 22 in Alpine. Photo contributed by Bravo y Grande.

Ever wonder what it would be like to paddle the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande?

An hour-long documentary about the Lower Canyons of the river south of Big Bend National Park will premiere later this month in Alpine. The film, created by Carl Crum and narrated by Butch Hancock, takes viewers along as a small group of river guides, scientists, locals and park officials travel 83 miles of the river to celebrate the 50thanniversary of the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act.

“The Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River may well be the least-known national park unit in the lower 48,” says Big Bend National Park superintendent and trip participant Bob Krumenaker. “Few people will ever visit, as it’s incredibly remote, lacking infrastructure and help is awfully far away. But that’s also what makes it amazing.”

Watch a trailer of the film here: <iframe src=”https://player.vimeo.com/video/321819771?color=ffffff&title=0&byline=0&portrait=0” width=”640″ height=”360″ frameborder=”0″ allow=”autoplay; fullscreen” allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p><a href=”https://vimeo.com/321819771“>Bravo Y Grande (trailer)</a> from <a href=”https://vimeo.com/brazosfilms“>Brazos Film &amp; Video</a> on <a href=”https://vimeo.com“>Vimeo</a>.</p>

“Bravo y Grande” will screen at 2 p.m. June 22 at the Rangra Theater in Alpine. A reception will follow at Ritchey Wine Saloon and Beer Garden. Movie tickets are $15 in advance at www.bigbendbookstore.orgor by calling 432-477-2236. For more information and a trailer go to www.bravoygrandefilm.org.

I got a taste of the Rio Grande a three-day rafting trip from Rio Grande Village to La Linda last fall. Read more about that trip at https://www.austin360.com/entertainmentlife/20181218/rafting-rio-grande.

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Holy crap, the Texas Water Safari starts in one week

Holy crap, the Texas Water Safari starts in one week

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I’ve got one more week to get real sleep before the start of the Texas Water Safari.

Next Saturday, my teammates and I will climb into a 27-foot canoe for the 260-mile paddling race from San Marcos to Seadrift on the Texas coast.

Hell yeah, I’m scared.

This race hovers like a cloud of pesky gnats way outside of my comfort zone. I’ve been paddling less than a year, and somehow I’m signed up (with veteran teammates Heather Harrison and Sheila Reiter) for what’s billed as “The World’s Toughest Canoe Race.”

Customized boat name! Pam LeBlanc photo

I’m diving headlong into a three- or four-day adventure fraught with mosquitos, alligators, snakes (a water moccasin tried to climb in our boat last week), palm-sized spiders, hallucinations, unbearable heat, giant rib-busting fish, hatching mayflies, sweat, huge mats of bobbing logs, dead and bloated farm animals, rapids, menacing rocks and stumps, and personality disorders.

As I learned today, a big part of canoe racing falls under the category of “boat rigging.”

This involves everything from looping zip ties around every spare inch of metal bar inside the boat to sloshing contact cement everywhere else to secure big sheets of foam with holes cut in them to hold water jugs. There are lights to secure, pee cups to tether, layers of padding to glue onto seats, and race numbers and team name (That’s What She Said) to affix to the bow.

Rudder cables need adjusting, cracks need mending, and plates must be installed so the boat doesn’t get shredded when it’s dragged across gravel beds.

Heather Harrison explores the work shop at Spencer’s Canoes in Martindale, where our boat spent the week getting some work done. Pam LeBlanc photo

I feel recklessly, dangerously underprepared. Today, these thoughts ricocheted around my brain:

Will our three-person boat get run over at the start, like one veteran paddle racer (thank you, West Hansen) suggested to me yesterday? (Hopefully not.)

Will I puke my guts out on the side of the river? (Possibly.)

How will I stay awake? (Lots of caffeine.)

How badly will my butt hurt? (Very badly.)

Will I develop trench foot by race end? (Good lord, it’s a real thing.)

Will my back hold up? My core? My brain? My sense of humor? (Crossing fingers.)

Our boat, name attached, in the yard at Spencers Canoes. Pam LeBlanc photo

The entry list is official – 185 boats are registered for this year’s race. Our team number is 333.

Check in takes place Friday. The race start is 9 a.m. Saturday, and the deadline to reach Seadrift is 1 p.m. Wednesday, June 12.

Want to watch? Great viewing spots include Rio Vista Dam, just 1.25 miles from the start at Spring Lake; Cottonseed Rapids at mile 9.12; and Staples Dam, at mile 16.6. Even better, drag yourself down to the checkpoints at Hochheim, Cheapside or Cuero to cheer on paddlers when they really need it, on days two and three.

Heather Harrison puts finishing touches on our boat a week before start date. Pam LeBlanc photo

Want to track Team That’s What She Said online? You can do that. We’ll have a SpotTracker attached to our boat. Tracking information should be available before race start at www.texaswatersafari.com.

Stay tuned.

And please, wish me luck.

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Flipped boat, ejected paddlers, rushing water: A ‘yard sale’ on the river

Flipped boat, ejected paddlers, rushing water: A ‘yard sale’ on the river

All smiles at Cummings Dam, before the boat flipped. That’s Heather Harrison and Pam LeBlanc in back, and master of selfies Sheila Reiter in front.

I experienced my first full-blown “yard sale” yesterday on the river.

Frankly, I’m glad I got that out of the way. After flipping our boats and losing everything that wasn’t tethered inside it, I can move on to worrying about other things – like how my shoulders will feel after paddling for three days straight, what I’ll do when I breath in a lungful of freshly-hatched mayflies, what will happen to my skin when its wet for 70 hours straight, and other horrors of the Texas Water Safari.

I’m one third of Team “That’s What She Said,” three women who have registered for what’s been dubbed “The World’s Toughest Canoe Race.” Sheila Reiter, Heather Harrison and I will paddle 260 miles, from San Marcos to Seadrift, in mid-June.

Yesterday, during a training run, the river reminded us who’s boss.

As the least experienced member of the team (I’m new to paddling, Sheila and Heather both have several safaris under their PFDs), I sit in the middle of our canoe. Heather drives, and Sheila fine tunes and calls out obstacles. We all paddle like hell.

Last year, while covering the Safari for the Austin American-Statesman, I spent a few hours at a place called Cottonseed Rapids, where I sat on a boulder and watched boats speed through a curvy, rock and cypress-studded stretch of river. It all looked so simple from that vantage point.

Things look different from the river, and from my perspective, they were quite, um, violent.

One minute I was in my seat, listening to Heather confidently call out some typical instructions. A second later, that instruction turned into a series of mild cuss words as our boat rapidly approached a cut log and a big hunk of what looked like cement or rock.

The boat tipped like a drunken debutante trying her first curtsy. The boat reared up on its side. Sheila, in front of me, clung to her spot like she had Velcro on her butt, but I was ejected almost immediately. (Let the record show I held on to my paddle, per instruction.) The other two joined me for a refreshing swim, and after getting sucked several hundred feet down the river, we managed to right the canoe.

Moments like this remind me of getting a root canal (not that I’ve ever had one.) They go on forever. Someone probably could have driven to Austin, cooked dinner and returned in the time it took us to drag our half-submerged craft to the river’s edge, flip on the bilge pumps and use my pee cup to scoop out our canoe, which apparently holds something like 6 million gallons of water.

A few speedy race canoes zoomed past.

“Nothing to see here!” I hollered out at one point.

“But if you do find a water bottle and a baseball cap downstream, that might be ours,” Sheila added.

We all laughed. Sort of.

The river presented us with this embroidered cap.

In the end, I got my bottle back and Sheila got her cap back, Heather kept her cool and we found another hat buried in the muck at the bottom of the river. I yanked it out of the slurry – dark green, with an owl embroidered on its front, just like the real one we’d seen a few days earlier, at the night race.
I think owls are now my official spirit animal.

Onward…

The preliminary race is next weekend, and it determines how boats will be seeded at the actual Texas Water Safari.

I hope we got all our boat flipping out of the way.

 

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

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