Austin paddlers gear up for sprint up Texas coast

Austin paddlers gear up for sprint up Texas coast

West Hansen, left, and Branndon Bargo go for a shakeout run on Lady Bird Lake on Sunday, May 17. Pam LeBlanc photo

Five Texas paddlers are heading to the Third Coast this week to paddle from Boca Chica Beach in Brownsville to Sabine Pass near Port Arthur.
I’m tagging along on that mini-expedition, which should take about eight days, but not in a boat. I’ll be on shore, chasing the team, camping on the beach, and documenting the adventure as it unfolds.

West Hansen is leading a 385-mile paddling trip up the Texas Coast starting on Wednesday. He went for a training run on Lady Bird Lake this morning. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen, who led a 2012 paddling expedition more than 4,000 miles down the length of the Amazon River, heads up the team, which also includes Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey, Branndon Bargo, and Tim Curry. Hansen, Wueste and Harvey are part of the upcoming Arctic Cowboys expedition to kayak the Northwest Passage.
Collectively, they haul around boatloads of experience. Hansen has finished the grueling 260-mile Texas Water Safari canoe race 20 times and won the Missouri River 340 as a solo paddler. He’s also a member of the prestigious Explorers Club, whose members include astronauts, mountain climbers and underwater explorers. The other paddlers are experienced canoe racers and Safari veterans, too.

Jimmy Harvey, in red, is part of the Cowboys’ Third Coast Kayak trip starting next week. Pam LeBlanc photo


They’ll cover roughly 385 miles on the next week’s Texas trip, paddling outside the third sandbar as they go to avoid the worst of the surge and wave action. I’m bringing my swim gear, so I can log some ocean miles while I wait for them to come in. (As a side note, we’ve all gotten COVID-19 tests, to make sure we don’t cross infect one another along the way. And we’ll practice social distancing.)
I managed to stay upright this morning while simultaneously wrangling cameras and paddling a racing canoe alongside the guys as they chugged up and down Lady Bird Lake on a shakeout run.
Check my blog for updates.

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My Packit Gourmet has arrived and I’m ready for adventure!

My Packit Gourmet has arrived and I’m ready for adventure!

My shipment of dehydrated meals just arrived from Packit Gourmet. Pam LeBlanc photo


I just got a shipment of dehydrated meals, the first sign of my upcoming trip to the Texas Coast to follow the Arctic Cowboys (plus one) as they paddle from Boca Chica Beach to Sabine Pass.
I’m pretty psyched, since I’ve been at home since flying in from Canada on March 5. To celebrate, I got a brain-tickling nasal swab COVID-19 test at a drive-through station today, something all four members of the expedition – trip leader West Hansen, Jeff Wueste, Branndon Bargo and Jimmy Harvey – are also doing to make sure we don’t cross contaminate one another.
The food came from Packit Gourmet, an Austin-based company I discovered in 2016, when I wrote about them for the Austin American-Statesman. (Read the article at https://www.statesman.com/NEWS/20161208/Austin-based-Packit-Gourmet-makes-meals-fit-for-the-back-country?_ga=2.143733554.663474386.1589468570-1283764380.1333191630.)
Sarah Welton hatched the idea for the company, which makes lightweight camping meals that taste like real food, instead of heavily-salted cardboard, while she was earning a graduate business degree from the University of Colorado Boulder. She’d grown up paddle camping with her parents, self-described hippies who dehydrated their own ingredients to cook along the way.

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Welton’s mom, Debbie Mullins, developed some of the recipes, which Welton tried on her classmates. The company officially launched in 2008 with a few items including Austintacious tortilla soup. A popular backpacking blogger bought mentioned the meals on her blog and recommended them to Backpacker Magazine, which awarded Packit Gourmet an editor’s choice award.
I took an array of meals along when I backpacked the John Muir Trail four years ago, and loved the stuff. I poured boiling water into what looked like a bowl of confetti but bloomed into a piping hot bowl of chicken and dumplings. The Texas State Fair Chili got the highest marks from me. (I wasn’t so thrilled about the “hamburger,” which requires a tortilla for wrapping.) The breakfasts are the best – particularly the West Memphis Grits Souffle. And who doesn’t like banana pudding, especially while backpacking?
Today’s shipment includes a few I haven’t tried yet: Polenta with Pork Sausage and Pasta Beef Bolognese. Stay tuned for a full report on those.
In all, the company offers about 50 different meals, including vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free options, all easily prepared with hot or cold water. Top sellers include Big Easy gumbo, high-protein smoothies and something called Ramen Rescue, a pack of dried veggies designed to spice up your own noodles.

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Yesterday’s rain served up a big bump on today’s river run

Yesterday’s rain served up a big bump on today’s river run

Jimmy Harvey paddles down the Colorado River between Bastrop and Smithville on Wednesday, May 15. Tuesday’s storms upped the river flow. Pam LeBlanc photo


Yesterday’s rains gave me and veteran paddler Jimmy Harvey a nice push down the Colorado River today.
Jimmy loaned me a one-man racing canoe and he climbed into his Epic kayak for the 25-mile trip from Fisherman’s Park in Bastrop to the Highway 230 Bridge in Smithville, highlighted by a snake encounter, collapsing riverbanks, huge birds and more.
I’m working on getting my paddling legs back. Nearly a year has passed since the 2019 Texas Water Safari, a 260-mile race from San Marcos to Seadrift on the Texas Coast. Memories of the sore butt, the log jams, the hordes of spiders and hallucinations haven’t quite faded, but today’s run reminded me how much I love the river and the paddling community.

Jimmy Harvey paddles past some trees twisted and torn in Tuesday’s storms. Pam LeBlanc photo


Flow hovered between 4,500 and 4,800 cubic feet per second along the way – almost triple Tuesday’s flow rates. That made it a relatively quick, four-and-a-half-hour excursion.
We stopped for a pee break at a little spot Jimmy jokingly called Snake Island. I scrambled out for my break, and when I climbed back in my boat I nearly paddled over the top of a glistening water moccasin napping in the reeds.
About midway through the run, we spotted a hassock-sized bundle of sticks in the top of a dead tree along the bank. A few minutes later, a bald eagle flapped past. We’d apparently seen its nest.
And as we approached Smithville, we noticed a bunch of trees, some knocked over, others with huge limbs twisted and torn. A tornado reportedly swept through the area yesterday; this must have been damage from the winds.
We also saw blue herons and soft-shelled turtles, mooing cows and red dirt banks, including a portion of one that buckled and slid into the water as we paddled past.

Jimmy Harvey gives me a little advice as we put in at Fisherman’s Park on Wednesday. Pam LeBlanc photo


The best part, though? When Jimmy called me over and told me to stop for a moment.
“Put your paddle down,” he said. “You can’t hear any human noises. Just the wind, the river and the birds.”

And that’s why I can’t wait to get back out there.

I paddled Jimmy’s one-man Landick racing canoe for the trip. Jimmy Harvey photo

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Back in the canoe, ready for a long(ish) run

Back in the canoe, ready for a long(ish) run

I took Jimmy Harvey’s Landick one-person canoe out for a test run on Lady Bird Lake today. Photo by Jimmy Harvey


I’m getting back in the boat this week to do some research for an upcoming magazine article.
I’ll be paddling about 26 miles from Fisherman’s Park in Bastrop to Smithville, but it’s been a few months since I’ve spent time in a boat. Also, now’s not the time to paddle a tandem (there’s that whole social distancing deal), so I’m borrowing a solo boat from veteran paddler Jimmy Harvey, who has raced the grueling Texas Water Safari more times than I can wrap my brain around. (I did the race for the first time last year and still can’t believe I survived the 260-mile gauntlet of log jams, alligator gar, mud and mayflies.)

Jimmy Harvey is part of the Arctic Cowboys team of paddlers from Austin, who will be paddling up the Texas coast in a few weeks. Pam LeBlanc photo

I met Jimmy down at Lake Austin today, to take his boat out for a spin. I wondered if the sleek-looking Landick racing canoe might toss me like a bucking bronco, but I managed to stay dry. I also discovered that the boat, despite its narrow front half, swells like a curvy woman at the hips, so it can tip really far without dumping its driver (me.)
The boat’s got a rudder, too, which makes it super easy to steer. I made two laps – one with a single blade, another with the dreaded shoulder-busting double. The boat felt nimble and I didn’t run over anyone, so it’s all systems go for Wednesday’s longer run.
I’m packing a lunch, my camera gear, a cowboy hat and lots of energy, and looking forward to seeing a stretch of the Colorado River I’ve never paddled.
Adventure in the time of a pandemic tastes all the sweeter.

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Maudie’s Moonlight Margarita Run goes virtual – and the trail will remain one-way at least through May

Maudie’s Moonlight Margarita Run goes virtual – and the trail will remain one-way at least through May

That’s me, posing with an unidentified runner, at the 2018 Moonlight Margarita Run. This year’s race is going virtual. Photo from 2018 race by Chris LeBlanc


The Trail Foundation’s biggest fund-raiser of the year, the Maudie’s Moonlight Margarita Run, is going virtual.

That means you can run the 5K race on your own time, wherever you want. The party half of the event will take place in October, and everyone who registers and runs the virtual race now will get a couple of free drinks then.
“Apart but together we can still celebrate the Trail while keeping our city safe,” said Heidi Anderson, director of The Trail Foundation, a non-profit organization that works to maintain and improve the beloved 10-mile Butler Hike and Bike Trail around Lady Bird Lake. “The Trail Foundation is grateful to everyone who is registering and supporting our efforts to ensure the Trail is in the best condition possible, even during these unprecedented times.”
These unprecedented times, in case you haven’t heard, have meant a temporary conversion of the Butler Trail to a one-way route. People are discouraged from using the trail at all right now, because it’s difficult to maintain a 6-foot social distance on narrow stretches of the pathway, but asked to travel clockwise if they choose to do so.
“The trail, at the Austin Parks and Recreation Department’s direction, will remain one-way at least through the end of May, and then they will re-evaluate,” Anderson said. “Our counters actually show that the majority of folks are complying. Depending on the day, between 75 and 85 percent of folks are moving clockwise.”
In the meantime, the one-way signs that were put up a few weeks ago are still disappearing. Another round of signs to replace them will go up today and Thursday. (Seriously, folks. Leave the signs alone. It’s a waste for the foundation to use its donations to keep replacing signs torn down, thrown away or swiped as souvenirs.)
As for the race, once you register online at https://eventdog.com/a/eventpage.php?eID=31787&refData=website, the foundation will send you links to create a virtual bib and submit your results. Everyone who signs up gets a T-shirt, and the first 700 will get a $10 Maudie’s Tex-Mex gift card.
You can run or walk any route you choose – on road, trail, treadmill or track – as many times as you want between June 4 (that’s the day after Global Running Day) and July 4. Send in your best time to compete against other virtual participants.
I try to do the race every year. I love the combination of fun and food, and the festive, outdoor atmosphere. I hope to see you at the October party.

About Pam

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