If a Colorado ski trip still appeals after Austin’s wintry blast, read on…

If a Colorado ski trip still appeals after Austin’s wintry blast, read on…

Chris LeBlanc skis a run at Copper Mountain in February 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

The Great Texas Snowpocalypse may have dampened your enthusiasm for a ski trip this season, but just in case, I’m here with an update from my contacts in Colorado.

Ski lifts are still whisking folks up the slopes and skiers are still schussing happily down them, albeit in smaller numbers this year, according to Chris Linsmayer, public affairs director of Colorado Ski Country USA, which represents 22 ski areas in Colorado.

“Largely the season is going well, but business is down due to Covid,” Linsmayer said. “Visitors are grateful to come out and experience some normalcy.”

The good news? Snow sports are, by their nature, less risky than other endeavors during a pandemic. “You’re outside and you have skis or a board on your feet, so it’s naturally socially distant,” Linsmayer said.

The bad news? Outbreaks have been reported at some area ski resorts. Those cases, including a rash of more than 100 reported among employees at Winter Park last week, have been traced to workers who live and socialize together. So far there have been no reports of employees transferring the virus to visitors.

If you do decide to make a trip, keep a few things in mind. Ski Country is still pushing it’s “Know before you go” message, encouraging visitors to check the Colorado Ski Country website at www.coloradoski.com or go to the individual website of the resort they plan to visit for Covid tips and advice.

Most resorts are requiring pre-purchase of lift tickets, and some require pre-purchase of parking.

Resorts are encouraging visitors to eat meals outdoors, on picnic tables or benches. This group enjoys a meal next to the parking lot at Arapaho Basin in February 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

Dining restrictions vary by county, but some have increased occupancy rates at sit-down restaurants to 50 percent. (Others, like Telluride, are at 25 percent capacity.) Many resorts offer grab-and-go meals on the mountain, and some offer creative solutions, like gondola cars or yurts that serve as dining pods, or tents that allow breezes to flow through.

Under state regulations, masks must be worn – over your nose and mouth – in public spaces, including lift lines. And a single Buff or bandana won’t cut it. Either use a regular face mask or double down on those thin neck gaiters.

“Our state regulations allow you to take off masks while skiing, but you must put them on while in line,” Linsmayer said.

Here are a few more specific updates …

Patrick O’Sullivan skis a run at Arapaho Basin. Pam LeBlanc photo

Aspen Snowmass

Aspen-Snowmass, which incorporates four ski resorts (Aspen, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass and Buttermilk), has a sense of humor – they’re pushing a “Fine Dining on the Lift” theme, encouraging folks to pick up individually wrapped and easily transported food items like sandwiches and salads in containers that are easy to eat from. That way you can eat them outside, on benches, inside heated tents, or while the lift whisks you up the mountain for that next run.

“It’s kind of feeling like we’re a little bit back to normal,” said Xanthe Demas, communications manager at the area.

A new six-person lift is turning at Snowmass, and both Aspen and Snowmass have added snowmaking operations.

Copper Mountain

Copper Mountain, where I skied last February, just started offering six-person group lessons, instead of limiting them to privates. They’ve also added guided uphill tours and expanded uphill routes (a terrific workout best done at dawn!) to the menu, and during the month of February are donating $5 of every lift ticket purchased on Wednesday to a non-profit organization as part of the Play it Forward Wednesday movement, said communications manager Taylor Prather.

Monarch Mountain

I made it to Monarch Mountain last winter too, where marketing director Dan Bender says the resort is enjoying a winter storm cycle (probably more than Austin is enjoying its winter storm cycle.)

“Still, it has been a challenging year,” Bender said.

The mountain has added a food truck that peddle burritos at the base area, and another that serves grab-and-go food at mid-mountain. The trucks will be incorporated permanently, he said. Lodges are instituting social distancing guidelines.

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Thinking of hitting the slopes? Check Covid protocols before you go

Thinking of hitting the slopes? Check Covid protocols before you go

Chris LeBlanc skis Monarch Mountain near Salida, Colorado, in January 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

Hankering to hit the slopes in 2021 but not sure if it’s safe during a pandemic?

You’re probably more at risk traveling to a ski resort or eating in a restaurant once you’re there than you are actually skiing or snowboarding, according to guidelines from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

The health agency notes that “outdoors is the safer choice if you want to spend time with people you don’t live with.” It recommends staying at least 6 feet apart from people you don’t live with, bringing a mask to wear when you encounter others, and avoiding crowds and poorly vented indoor spaces. That’s all doable, thanks to protocols in place at Colorado ski slopes to minimize risk of spreading Covid-19.

Most Colorado resorts require advance reservations made online to get lift tickets or parking places. Visitors must wear masks on lifts and in lines.

“We know people want to be outdoors, and they feel relatively safe outdoors,” said Chris Linsmayer, public affairs director of Colorado Ski Country, which represents 22 ski resorts in the state.

He reminds visitors to check with their destination before heading out to know the rules and to reserve lift tickets or book ski lessons (group size is limited.) Check to see if your resort has an ap you can download, like Aspen Snowmass Ski Resort.

“Things are going to look different,” said Olivia Butrymovich, public relations coordinator at Copper Mountain Resort.

Most food service has shifted outdoors to limit indoor gatherings, so grab-and-go offerings or creative options like yurts or gondolas have popped up.

“There are no walkup ticket purchases,” says Jen Miller at Winter Park Ski Resort, who also recommends planning a mid-week trip, to avoid peak weekend days. “You buy in advance, including lessons and rentals.”

It’s easy to stay socially distant while skiing in Colorado. Here, Chris LeBlanc enjoys a deserted run at Copper Mountain in January 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

Here are some ways to make your trip safer:

  1. Rent a condo, rental house or room with a full kitchen, so you can cook your meals instead of going out. Some hotels, including the newResidence Inn by Marriott in Steamboat Springs, offer a ski valet, grocery deliver and suites with full kitchens.
  2. Book through a management company with safety protocols and social distancing amenities in place. Moving Mountains, which offers luxury rentals in Beaver Creek, Vail and Steamboat Springs, follows CDC and Vacation Rental Management Association Safe Home Guidelines.
  3. Avoid standing in line at a rental shop. Bring your own gear or take advantage of companies like Black Tie Ski Rental Deliverythat offer contactless or minimal contact delivery of skis, boots and poles to wherever you are staying.
  4. Avoid crowded restaurants. Either cook in, or take advantage of options like the eight-person yurts operated by Aurum Food & Wine in Breckenridge and Steamboat. You can dine in a refurbished gondola car in Telluride, or buy takeaway from a snowcat in Snowmass and other resorts.

For more information, go to the Covid page on Coloradoski.com.

The back bowls at Copper Mountain offer plenty of terrain to explore. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

 

 

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Today’s theme at Red Mountain: Strong women

Today’s theme at Red Mountain: Strong women

Passengers unload from the snowcat at the top of Mount Kirkup. Pam LeBlanc photo

It turns out that the world is filled with bad-ass women who like to do the same kind of stuff that I do – and I found a bunch of them at Red Mountain.

I met Cristi Sullivan and Drue Kerns in a wooden, barrel-shaped sauna at The Josie Hotel where I stayed this week. We sweated together for a few minutes, and the women, both from Missoula, Montana, invited me to ski with them yesterday. Without a moment’s hesitation I said yes.

I quickly discovered they’re experts. Cristi, an anesthesiologist, used to compete in ski racing. Drue, a horseback riding instructor, likes to go fast and steep. I spent the day trying to keep up with them, and it made me a better skier.

Drue Kerns, left, and Cristi Sullivan ride a lift at Red Mountain Resort. Pam LeBlanc photo

I caught my first lift at 9 a.m., and we didn’t stop skiing until almost 3 p.m. (Lunch? Who’s got time for that?)
In between, we caught a ride on the mountain’s snowcat, which hauls skiers to the top of Mount Kirkup, where they can swoop down through steep gladed terrain. (The cat wasn’t running earlier this week, because the freeze-thaw cycle had wreaked havoc on snow conditions; an inch or two of fresh snow made it doable Tuesday.)

Red Mountain, in British Columbia, is the only place I know where you don’t have to fork over hundreds of dollars for a cat-skiing experience. It’s refreshingly no-frills. You ski to a designated meeting spot, climb onto the cat, and hand the driver $10 Canadian.

The snowcat attendant collects $10 Canadian from the passengers. Pam LeBlanc photo

We happened to pull up just as it was loading. The cat – kind of like a big tractor – holds about a dozen folks. A 15-minute ride delivered us to the bald top of the mountain, where we clambered out, popped on our skis, and dove into 200-acres of ungroomed snow.

The cat operates, weather permitting, from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m. daily, and accesses only advanced terrain. Skiers should be capable of making tight turns and handling off-piste trees and powder. No reservations are needed.

Since I survived that just fine, we stepped it up a notch. Cristi and Drue escorted me to a place called Capt. Jack’s Trees, a never-ending double black run that I’d never have gone down had I been skiing alone. I tipped over a few times, but bounded right up, made a bunch of tight turns, and got myself down the gnarliest slopes I’ve ever navigated.

Cristi Sullivan skis down a gladed run at Red Mountain Resort. Pam LeBlanc photo

I love hanging out with strong women. They spurred me on; I regaled them with stories. We finished with beers on the outdoor patio of The Josie Hotel at the base, where a trio of French Canadian women, also tough and spirited, pulled up chairs. They’d spent the day hiking up to terrain that’s not served by lifts. Their husbands were off at the grocery, getting food to cook dinner.

We got a laugh out of that, and talked about how Red Mountain seems to attract athletic, independent women, and how we liked the low-key vibe of the place. We just wished we’d gotten to experience the massive dumps of snow for which the mountain is known. (The forecast calls for some later this week. My timing’s off.)

“And the $10 cat skiing was pretty cool,” Drue said. “To return here on a powder day would be dreamy.”

Passengers unload the snowcat at the top of Mount Kirkup on Tuesday. Pam LeBlanc photo

We all liked the lack of crowds, the sprawling size of the place, and the down-to-earth, friendly people.

“The mountains are legit,” Cristi said, noting that we saw tons of ski tracks leading down out-of-bounds, extremely steep gullies and faces. “The lift-access back country is plentiful, and there’s every type of terrain.”

If I hang around with women like this often enough, I’ll be making some of those tracks myself soon.

Cristi Sullivan and Drue Kerns enjoy a plate of poutine – french fries, cheese curds and gravy – at The Josie Hotel at Red Mountain Resort. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

 

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At Monarch Mountain, steep terrain, a new ski dog and anniversary beer

At Monarch Mountain, steep terrain, a new ski dog and anniversary beer

Fawkes is a ski patrol dog in training at Monarch Mountain. Pam LeBlanc photo

I’ve skied every major ski resort in Colorado, from Aspen to Wolf Creek. Checked off my list so far? Telluride, Crested Butte, Steamboat, Winter Park, Keystone, Vail, Purgatory, Loveland, Breckenridge, Aspen Highlands and Snowmass.

During last week’s trip to the Colorado mountains, though, I traded expansive resorts with fancy hotels and mid-mountain lodges for smaller destinations without all the bells and whistles.

My first stop was Monarch Mountain, a 20-minute drive from historic old mining town of Salida, where I stayed three nights.

Chris LeBlanc overlooks some black runs at Monarch Mountain. Pam LeBlanc photo

I’d always skipped Monarch, assuming it didn’t have enough terrain to keep me interested. I was wrong.

“No frills, no fuss, no Prada store,” says Allie Stevens, marketing manager for the ski area. “Here it’s just fun turns and everybody gets to know each other.”

Monarch, which opened in 1938, is celebrating its 80thseason this year. We attended a history presentation led by Dr. Duane Vanderbusche in Salida, which provided some historical context (and a bunch of laughs, because he’s really funny) for the ski area. He told us Monarch started as a Works Progress Administration project (as did the hot springs pool in Salida, which I also visited).

The Mirkwood section of Monarch offers 130 acres of double black diamond (expert) terrain, but you have to hike (or take a Snowcat) to get there. Pam LeBlanc photo

Highlights?

  1. The lack of crowds. Monarch is off the beaten path for most visitors.
  2. Easy access to tree runs, my favorite, off main lifts like Panorama and Breezeway.
  3. The High Anxiety run – a steep, bumped swathe that lured me back again and again.
  4. The historic Gunbarrel run, originally accessible by what must have been the world’s steepest rope tow. Today that tow is long gone (although some of the old machinery is still visible at the top), and you have to hike up a short but steep incline to get there. Totally worth it.
  5. The ski area’s manageable size – 800 skiable acres, including 130 acres of hike-to terrain, and six lifts.
  6. That hike-to terrain! Mirkwood Basin, the best part of the entire ski area, offers 130 acres of double-black diamond expert terrain – the second steepest inbound terrain in Colorado, according to Monarch officials. You either have to hike there or buy a seat on a snowcat for the day. Either way, you’ll find amazing gladed runs, none of it groomed, all of it delicious.
  7. A sack lunch room, so you don’t have to spend money at the cafeteria at the base if you don’t want to.
  8. Lift tickets cost about half as much as the bigger resorts. Buy online the day before you ski and a pass costs about $79 per adult.
  9. The ski patrol dog-in-training, Fawkes. We met him near Mirkwood, where he couldn’t stop rolling on his back and grooving in the snow.
  10. The Monarch Throwback Red Ale brewed by Elevation Beer Co. to mark the 80thanniversary of Monarch. Beer is tasty after a full day of skiing!

 

Elevation has brewed a special beer to commemorate the 80th anniversary of Monarch Mountain. Pam LeBlanc photo

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Old-school snow-school charm at Arapahoe Basin

Old-school snow-school charm at Arapahoe Basin

Patrick O’Sullivan skis a gladed run in the Beavers section of Arapahoe Basin on Feb. 6, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

The last time I skied at Arapahoe Basin, I wore blue jeans which I’d attempted to waterproof by spraying them with Scotchguard.

That was 1985, and the spray didn’t work so well. Also, I didn’t even know how to ski at the time. But yesterday – 35 years after that first visit – I finally made it back to the mountain known for having the longest ski season in Colorado.

A-Basin, as they call it, just feels different than the big guys. The resort opened in 1946. We pulled in to the “Early Risers” lot, just 100 yards or so from the base area. No fancy restaurant. No ritzy hotels. Just spinning lifts, moving chairs and a mountain to explore.

We stopped at Il Rifugio for antipasti. Pam LeBlanc photo

Patrick O’Sullivan, director of safety and risk for the mountain, showed me and my husband Chris around. It snowed hard, big fat flakes sifting out of the sky. And the wind blew so hard some of the lifts were shut down.

O’Sullivan says he knew when he was a rookie ski patroller in Keystone 31 years ago that he wanted to work at A Basin, mainly because he likes the natural setting of the ski area.

Instead of cutting wide swathes of trees to cut uniform trails, operators of A-Basin left most of the design work to nature.

“Almost 100 percent of A-Basin is native or organic,” O’Sullivan says. “You can’t fake nature like that.”

Another thing he loves about the mountain? A range of terrain, from gullies and chutes to rolling cruisers, nicely spaced glades and open bowls. “It’s like an English muffin,” O’Sullivan says. “It’s got really nice nooks and crannies.”

Operators pride themselves on the ski area’s old-school charm.

“We’re not a resort. We don’t have snow coasters and trampolines,” says Katherine Fuller, who does marketing for Arapahoe Basin. “Seventy five percent of our terrain is black and double black. That tents to scare some people off, but it’s a skier’s mountain.”

Here are some things I like about A-Basin:

Tail gators enjoy a “shot ski” in the parking lot at Arapahoe Basin. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

  1. The Beavers and the Steep Gullies. A new lift opened last season now whisks skiers to huge section of expert terrain, including some of the best glade skiing in Colorado. (Before the lift opened, anyone who skied The Beavers faced a 20-minute walk to get out.)
  2. You can park for free, walk to a lift and in a single ride reach some of the steepest in-bounds terrain in Colorado.
  3. The Pallavicini Lift (which is getting replaced next year), legendary among locals for carrying skiers to “The Center of the Universe.” To think it was so close all along!
  4. The old-school charm. It isn’t fancy. That’s a good thing.
  5. The Il Refugio, the highest lift-served restaurant in Colorado, which serves an amazing antipasti with olives, thin-shaved meats, olives and roasted veggies.
  6. The resort’s emphasis on minimizing impact. “We didn’t cut runs, we shaped them,” O’Sullivan says. “We trimmed limbs, took out deadfall, and were very conscious about wildlife habitat.”
  7. Even on a powder day (a Friday no less!) with only two lifts operating due to the storm, the wait was less than 5 minutes.
  8. The Beach. People tailgate – even during blizzards! – in the parking lot. We’re talking grills, coolers full of beer, shot skis and table clothes.

 

 

 

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