Old-school snow-school charm at Arapahoe Basin

Old-school snow-school charm at Arapahoe Basin

Patrick O’Sullivan skis a gladed run in the Beavers section of Arapahoe Basin on Feb. 6, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

The last time I skied at Arapahoe Basin, I wore blue jeans which I’d attempted to waterproof by spraying them with Scotchguard.

That was 1985, and the spray didn’t work so well. Also, I didn’t even know how to ski at the time. But yesterday – 35 years after that first visit – I finally made it back to the mountain known for having the longest ski season in Colorado.

A-Basin, as they call it, just feels different than the big guys. The resort opened in 1946. We pulled in to the “Early Risers” lot, just 100 yards or so from the base area. No fancy restaurant. No ritzy hotels. Just spinning lifts, moving chairs and a mountain to explore.

We stopped at Il Rifugio for antipasti. Pam LeBlanc photo

Patrick O’Sullivan, director of safety and risk for the mountain, showed me and my husband Chris around. It snowed hard, big fat flakes sifting out of the sky. And the wind blew so hard some of the lifts were shut down.

O’Sullivan says he knew when he was a rookie ski patroller in Keystone 31 years ago that he wanted to work at A Basin, mainly because he likes the natural setting of the ski area.

Instead of cutting wide swathes of trees to cut uniform trails, operators of A-Basin left most of the design work to nature.

“Almost 100 percent of A-Basin is native or organic,” O’Sullivan says. “You can’t fake nature like that.”

Another thing he loves about the mountain? A range of terrain, from gullies and chutes to rolling cruisers, nicely spaced glades and open bowls. “It’s like an English muffin,” O’Sullivan says. “It’s got really nice nooks and crannies.”

Operators pride themselves on the ski area’s old-school charm.

“We’re not a resort. We don’t have snow coasters and trampolines,” says Katherine Fuller, who does marketing for Arapahoe Basin. “Seventy five percent of our terrain is black and double black. That tents to scare some people off, but it’s a skier’s mountain.”

Here are some things I like about A-Basin:

Tail gators enjoy a “shot ski” in the parking lot at Arapahoe Basin. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

  1. The Beavers and the Steep Gullies. A new lift opened last season now whisks skiers to huge section of expert terrain, including some of the best glade skiing in Colorado. (Before the lift opened, anyone who skied The Beavers faced a 20-minute walk to get out.)
  2. You can park for free, walk to a lift and in a single ride reach some of the steepest in-bounds terrain in Colorado.
  3. The Pallavicini Lift (which is getting replaced next year), legendary among locals for carrying skiers to “The Center of the Universe.” To think it was so close all along!
  4. The old-school charm. It isn’t fancy. That’s a good thing.
  5. The Il Refugio, the highest lift-served restaurant in Colorado, which serves an amazing antipasti with olives, thin-shaved meats, olives and roasted veggies.
  6. The resort’s emphasis on minimizing impact. “We didn’t cut runs, we shaped them,” O’Sullivan says. “We trimmed limbs, took out deadfall, and were very conscious about wildlife habitat.”
  7. Even on a powder day (a Friday no less!) with only two lifts operating due to the storm, the wait was less than 5 minutes.
  8. The Beach. People tailgate – even during blizzards! – in the parking lot. We’re talking grills, coolers full of beer, shot skis and table clothes.

 

 

 

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It got really cold, but we skied Copper Mountain anyway…

It got really cold, but we skied Copper Mountain anyway…

Hardly anybody was skiing yesterday at Copper Mountain, and the snow was great. Pam LeBlanc photo

Temperatures cold enough to freeze the bottle of water I left in the car overnight didn’t keep us off the mountain yesterday.

Chris and I just stuck toe warmers on our socks and hand warmers in our gloves, then covered every patch of exposed skin with clothing before catching a chair lift to the top of Copper Mountain in minus 15-degree weather.

After a few days of skiing Monarch Mountain near Salida, we drove to Frisco on Tuesday. We’re now staying at the cozy Frisco Inn on Galena Street, which feels like staying at a friend’s house (and that friend brews three kinds of amazing coffee every day, cooks you hearty pre-ski breakfasts and pours you a glass of wine to sip in front of the fireplace every night). From our base in Frisco, we’re exploring nearby Copper Mountain and Arapahoe Basin.

In the meantime, a blast of winter weather has arrived.

Lots of wide open expert terrain to tackle at Copper Mountain. Pam LeBlanc photo

Guide Todd Casey at Copper explained the resort’s two-peak layout. I skied here two years ago, but since the big news is a new lift that opened this season. The Three Bears lift, the culmination of a 15-year vision, now whisks skiers up Tucker Mountain, to some of the steepest, lift-served terrain in Colorado.

“There’s more challenging terrain here than people realize,” Casey said. “It’s steep, north-facing, ungroomed, above-the-treeline into glades. It’s always been inbounds, just not often used.”

The key to skiing in minus 15-degree temps? Cover up every patch of skin, like Chris LeBlanc, shown here. Pam LeBlanc photo

If you like double-black drops, chutes and razor-edge ridgelines, this is your mecca.
We spent most of our time in the slightly milder terrain of Copper Bowl, where we bounded down fluffy mounds of snow, and in the untracked stretches of powder back in Union Meadows. We also found lots of gorgeous glades, where the wind couldn’t find us among the trees.

And here’s a tip for skiing Copper in cold weather: Take advantage of the American Flyer lift, where you can pull down the blue-tinted, plastic bubble cover to shield yourself from the elements. Also, stop frequently for hot chocolate.

Today, we’re heading to Arapaho Basin. The forecast calls for balmier temperatures in the 20s, and snow all day.

I’ll take that.

The temperatures at Copper Mountain never reached zero yesterday, and it was minus 15 when we started. Pam LeBlanc photo

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From skis to whiskey: Finding my way at Outdoor Retailer’s Snow Show

From skis to whiskey: Finding my way at Outdoor Retailer’s Snow Show

 

A line of skis from Vokyl is decorated with jungle creature graphics.

Between the top-of-the-line camper vans and bedroom-sized inflatable igloo, just past the bar set up with rows of whiskey shots and around the corner from the skis decorated with cow spots, I huddled on a bench, clutching a bag full of business cards, and hyperventilated over a detailed exhibit hall map of this year’s Outdoor Retailer Snow Show.

I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed as a first-timer at this huge, sensory-overloading affair, where product developers show off their wares, retailers look for goods to stock their shelves, and journalists sniff around for interesting stories. Nearly 30,000 people filed through the doors of the Colorado Convention Center for the show last year, and judging by the crowds, this year’s show should come close to the same attendance.

I’m here for two reasons: To connect with companies that might want me to write gear reviews about their products, and to spread the word about the Arctic Cowboys expedition I’ll be covering this summer.

Austin paddler West Hansen, who led a paddling expedition nearly 5,000 miles down the Amazon River from source to sea in 2012, then followed that up by paddling the Volga River in Russia, plans to lead kayaking expedition through the Northwest Passage in the Arctic this summer. They need sponsors and donors, and could also use a bunch of parkas, tents and sleeping bags on their eight-week traverse.

With so much to look at and take in – from snow boots with soles that flash in neon colors to an array of fat-tired bicycles, backpacks, gloves, hats, snowboards, socks, dehydrated meals, jackets, long underwear and more – my head was spinning by 3 p.m.

Highlights so far?

I met polar explorer John Huston.

Meeting John Huston, a polar explorer who, along with his partner Tyler Fish, skied 475 miles to the northernmost place on the planet in 2009. I told Huston about Hansen, the Austin paddler, in hopes they can share intel about fending off polar bears and dressing for success in frigid temperatures. (Huston had to don a dry suit to swim during part of his journey, and towed an inflatable sled loaded with gear behind him.)

Learning about Parks Project, which sells T-shirts and other soft goods and keeps part of the proceeds for profit and gives the rest to non-profit groups that help support our national parks (including Big Bend National Park.) Hearing about the collaboration between 686, which makes technical apparel, and NASA. Seeing homegrown Texas company Yeti’s display, bustling with interested clients. Watching a ski-making machine in action.

Ogling a whole landscape of CBD products. Seriously, there were so many lotions, oils and capsules that they took up an entire wing of the convention center.

Meeting old friends from the ski industry and other journalists at assorted dinners, happy hours, meetings and parties.

And finally, just taking in the enormity of it all. The show covers three floors, each one bigger than a football field, with a collective 1,000 or so booths to peruse. That’s a lot of turf to cover but I’m doing my best, squeezing in explorations along with talks about everything from

This guy is promoting apparel, including Hawaiian-themed ski parkas, by Snoloha.

One final note. The most prominent theme at this year’s show is sustainability. Over and over, products are showing off their green side. Even show organizers are discouraging the use of single-use plastics. (Participants don’t get plastic holders for their badges, for example, and you won’t find plastic bottles of water here, either. Just filling stations.) Companies are encouraged to join the Climate Action Corps, which is designed to help companies collaborate to measure and reduce their greenhouse gas emissions.

I like that. Especially in an industry that relies so heavily on taking care of our planet.

We’ve got to work together to become more sustainable.

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

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