A takeaway from chasing kayakers up the Texas coast? Our beaches are trashed

A takeaway from chasing kayakers up the Texas coast? Our beaches are trashed

We found trash at nearly every campsite where we stopped along the coast. The only exception? Small barrier islands. Pam LeBlanc photo


One thing I noticed as I chased the 3rd Coast Cowboys Epic Kayak Journey up the Texas coast the last two weeks?
Trash.
From the first night, when I camped at Mansfield Cut, the passage between North and South Padre Islands, to the finish point at Walter Umphrey State Park near Port Arthur, nearly every place we pitched a tent or delivered supplies to the team was fouled with discarded plastic bottles, food wrappers and beer cans.
Hopping from boulder to boulder on jetties, I spotted trash in every nook and cranny. I found toilet paper in the sand dunes, where endangered sea turtles nest. So much trash, along with a collection of old tires, was strewn around one spot on Bolivar Peninsula where the paddlers camped that it looked like a dump. (And, in a way, I guess it was.)

Jimmy Harvey sets up his tent on a small barrier island in Matagorda Bay. Islands like this were mostly trash free. Pam LeBlanc photo

As we made our way up the coast, the only places not buried in trash were the islands accessible only by boat. There, bright green grass waved in the breeze, and gray and white pieces of driftwood stood out like bones.
I’ve never understood the mentality of litterers. Do they think it’s someone else’s job to clean up after them? Do they think trash disappears? Do they think pristine beaches and fields look better caped in discarded tents (yes, we saw that), Fritos bags and broken coolers?
People fishing seem to be particularly piggish. I found bait packages, fishing line, broken awnings, single-use grocery bags and snack containers.
I brought spare trash bags with me on the second half of the trip, so I could pick up some of the refuse. Not a pleasant pastime, and it hardly made a dent, but I’m kind of obsessive-compulsive. It made me feel a teensy bit better.
Think about it. If every person who visited a park or beach picked up a few extra pieces of garbage left by someone else, we could make a difference.
Please, Take 3 for the Sea.

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Third Coast Cowboys finish strong at Louisiana border

Third Coast Cowboys finish strong at Louisiana border

The 3rd Coast Cowboys pull into Walter Umphrey Park outside Port Arthur on June 1, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo


West Hansen pulled his kayak up the boat ramp at Walter Umphrey State Park in Port Arthur at about 5 p.m. Monday, stepped around a dead fish and greeted the small crowd of family members gathered there to cheer him in.
“Well, that’s done,” he said, 13 days of stubble bristling from his chin.
Hansen, 58, and four other paddlers left the tip of South Padre Island on May 20, then spent two days chugging through swells and chop in the Gulf of Mexico before shifting into the Intracoastal Waterway for the rest of the trip up the Texas coast. Tim Curry dropped out after four days, but the others – Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and Branndon Bargo – celebrated Monday afternoon by sharing stories and eating homemade chicken, potato salad and cookies in the shadow of the Sabine Lake Causeway Bridge between Texas and Louisiana. The 3rd Coast Cowboys Epic Kayak Journey covered 420 miles in all, and the kayakers paddled an estimated 65,000 to 70,000 strokes most days.

The team paddles past a barge in the Intracoastal Waterway near Matagorda, Texas. Pam LeBlanc photo


The paddlers spent their final night in cattle pens at a grassy crossing of the ICW about 5 miles northeast of the State Highway 124 bridge, lulled to sleep by croaking bull frogs, under the watchful gaze of a 6-foot alligator. Paddling into Port Arthur that last day, they went through another downpour, and steady headwinds.
“It was hard,” Harvey said while driving back to Austin a few hours later. “Today was a slog because the wind was blowing in our face all day and it felt like we were going upstream.”
Hansen originally guessed that the trip would take eight days; that stretched to 13 when the team encountered stiff winds, coastal squalls and swells so big they lost sight of one another. Instead of 50 miles – the distance Hansen covered on an average day during his 2012 Amazon Express expedition down the entire length of the Amazon River – they paddled closer to 35 miles.
“Was there ever a moment you wanted to quit?” someone asked Hansen as he feasted at the finish.
“Yeah, every one,” joked Hansen, his nose sunburned and lower back rubbed raw from his seat.
Besides challenging conditions in the Gulf, the team endured a series of storms, including one that wrecked several tents, swarms of mosquitos, and enough sticky ooze at one campsite to host a mud-wrestling competition. They also paddled alongside pods of dolphins, pitched tents on spoil islands covered in lush green and rust-colored grass, and watched serene sunrises and sunsets. One night Hansen sang songs from his tent; each morning they gathered for coffee before pushing back into the liquid highway. Along the way they swapped stories, tried to trip each other up with riddles, and pondered trivia questions.

The sun rises over a spoil island where the team camped along Matagorda Bay. Pam LeBlanc photo


They also met people, including a friendly fisherman who shared bags of fresh fruit, someone who needed a hand righting an overturned bathroom, and a constable who escorted the kayakers around a construction zone to replace the last operating swing bridge in the state. In the busy Galveston Harbor they paused to admire the three-masted Elissa, a tall sailing ship launched in 1877, before sprinting across the Galveston Ship Channel to Bolivar Peninsula, where they camped on a beach strewn with litter.

The team stops to admire the Elissa in the Galveston Harbor. Pam LeBlanc photo

Thirteen days into the adventure, the paddlers finished strong and looked happy.
I’m writing about the adventure for a statewide magazine. I’ll share details when it publishes.

West Hansen paddles through Matagorda Bay. Pam LeBlanc photo

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Clean shirts, rogue waves, and a family visit for kayakers paddling the Texas coast

Clean shirts, rogue waves, and a family visit for kayakers paddling the Texas coast

The team paddles under the SH 124 bridge between High Island and Winnie. Pam LeBlanc photo


It looks like West Hansen and the 3rd Coast Cowboys will roll into Sabine Pass sometime Monday afternoon, completing their kayaking trip from the southern tip of Texas to the Louisiana border in 13 days.
The four paddlers – Hansen, Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and Branndon Bargo – started this morning with a delivery of clean, fresh shirts from Game Guard Outdoor Outfitters, compliments of photographer Erich Schlegel, who handed out the gear before the guys climbed into their boats for the day. They looked ready for a formal sit-down dinner, complete with sandwiches spread with Grey Poupon.

Erich Schlegel hands out free clean shirts to the paddlers this morning. Pam LeBlanc photo


Other highlights of the day?
A massive suck followed by a major wave, delivered by a passing barge as the team broke for lunch at Rollover Pass. The wave flipped Jeff Wueste’s boat, dumping and flooding half his snacks. It also slurped up some of our shoes, assorted water bags, and Jeff’s just-opened can of tuna.
That didn’t matter to Schlegel, who fished the tin out of the water, swished it around in the murky brown channel to rid it of the worst germs, and tossed it back like a waiter at a fancy restaurant had just placed it in front of him. (I’m still waiting for the after effects of this move, but Schlegel still seems fairly perky as of 8:30 p.m.)
At about 5:30 p.m., the crew pulled into the State Highway 124 Bridge, where Hansen’s mother, two sisters, and brother-in-law had gathered to deliver water and barbecue sandwiches.

Ann Hansen, West Hansen’s mother, went to the SH 124 Bridge over the Intracoastal Waterway to deliver barbecue sandwiches and water to the team. Pam LeBlanc photo


From there the guys paddled another 5 miles and made camp on the side of the Intercoastal Waterway.
Schlegel and I fueled up at a Vietnamese restaurant in nearby Winnie, lost the will to camp, and are currently shacked up at the Motel 6.
We’re expecting the adventure to wrap sometime tomorrow afternoon, then I’ll head back to Austin. It’s been a crazy two weeks, but I’m going to miss this nomadic lifestyle.

Branndon Bargo, top, and Jimmy Harvey, bottom, nap during a lunch break on May 31. Pam LeBlanc photo

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What’s it like to chase kayakers up the Texas coast? Very, very glamorous

What’s it like to chase kayakers up the Texas coast? Very, very glamorous

A storm gathers as the 3rd Coast Cowboys pitch camp near Sargent on Thursday, May 28. Pam LeBlanc photo

I’ve had a hell of a day, full of bumps and slams and sky-rocketing highs.
Here’s the deal: I love doing stuff that makes me uncomfortable and leaves me covered in scratches and mud and mosquito bites. It’s itchy and dirty and frustrates me to no end, but these days don’t fade away. They stick to my ribs, in the most delicious way.
I’ve been chasing a team of paddlers kayaking from the tip of Texas to the Louisiana border. The 3rd Coast Epic Kayak Journey started nine days ago, on May 20. Today, West Hansen, Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and Branndon Bargo are nearing Galveston Island, with a goal of reaching Sabine Pass by Sunday or Monday. They’re not as far as they originally thought they’d be, but they’ve hit a rhythm and are having a hell of a good time, I think.
So am I. That doesn’t mean everything’s gone according to plan. Take the last 24 hours. It’s been a whirlwind of altered plans, mud, mosquitos and technical difficulties.
It started when I arrived in the small coastal community of Sargent on Thursday afternoon and found four very polite but beer-drinking, music-cranking 20-somethings at the house where friends had offered to let me shack up. There’d been a miscommunication; I needed another place.
While I plotted my next move, I decided to take a spin through Sargent, which is when I discovered that the Intercoastal Waterway was closed during daytime hours due to bridge construction. The guys would have to portage.
As I waited for them, I met the county constable, a friendly guy who showed me where the team could pull out and put their boats back in. When the kayakers arrived – West Hansen, Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and Branndon Bargo – we loaded their kayaks into my truck and made two trips to carry them to the put-in. Then we agreed to meet and camp about 5 miles down the road. A storm was brewing and we wanted our tents up before it hit.
We ended up on a little point of land next to where a barge was parked. It seemed perfect: More or less flat, a nice dirt road leading down to the site, out of the way, and private.

The rain turned the “dirt road” into a mud pit. Pam LeBlanc photo


The storm grew closer. We quickly put up our tents. Then we headed to Hookers, the local restaurant, for real food. Jimmy stayed behind.
As we drove to town, the storm hit. Raindrops smacked the windshield and it came down in sheets. We dashed into the restaurant, where the guys tossed back double Hooker burgers with cheese. (I can’t make this stuff up.) We bagged one up for Jimmy. The rain stopped.
When we got back to camp, a lot of the dirt road had turned into mud, and Jimmy notified us that a rat had trotted through camp, but the tents were still standing. Puddles had formed inside mine (sideways rain has a way of defeating a rain fly), but I had a cot, so I didn’t much care.
After a while, I went to sleep. I’m not sure how much time passed, but I awoke to the sound of the barge, rumbling so loud it sounded like I was on an airport runway. It had powered up, but was idling – and idled for the next 6 hours. Then it fired up the lights, so bright they illuminated half of the Texas coast.
I rolled over. My cell phone dropped off my cot, but I ignored it. I got up to pee, and a few hundred mosquitos bit my butt.
At 5 a.m., as the roaring continued unabated, I could hear the guys stirring. I stayed on my cot, exhausted. I reached for my phone, which I found – in pooling water. When I stepped outside, the mosquitos descended and I slipped in sticky mud. Someone handed me bug spray.

The paddlers attempt to push my truck out of the mud. Pam LeBlanc photo

Eventually, I broke down my tent. I’d asked the guys not to leave before I moved my truck up to dry ground, and West volunteered to move it for me. That’s when it got mired in sticky brown goo. The rest of the team came over, and together they rocked the truck forward and back, trying to gain purchase.
No luck.

Eddie Steel of Granbury came to the rescue! Pam LeBlanc photo


After 30 minutes, I called the constable, who called someone just down the road who could help. In another 15 minutes, Eddie Steel came to my rescue.
Eddie, who lives in Granbury but owns a summer house in Sargent, rolled up in what looked to me like a golf cart with tractor tires. He attached a tow line to my (husband’s) Ford F150 and winched my vehicle slowly up the muddy road. I thanked him, tried to offer him money (he wouldn’t accept), and bid the paddlers, who were now 30 minutes behind schedule, adieu.

My muddy shoes. Pam LeBlanc photo


Then my phone started acting weird. At first, it wouldn’t take the letters I typed into the screen. Then it started randomly dialing numbers. Eventually, it quit working altogether. And I had kayaks to track!
I followed paper maps to Galveston (how old school), and when I arrived, I called Mary Beth Bassett at the Galveston Visitors and Convention Bureau. She invited me over for a shower, and placed my phone in a bag of dry rice. Then she took me to lunch.
And then, a miracle. When we got back, my phone started working. I did a happy dance, then set out for the Best Western, where she’d arranged a room for me.
Then I realized my phone wouldn’t plug into the charger. I kept pushing, but it just wouldn’t go. Finally, in my room, I discovered that a piece of rice was jammed in the opening. I stabbed at it with a flossing pick. I slammed it on the table. I blew at it. Then I posted an SOS message on face book.
In the end, someone suggested a needle. I called the front desk, and they handed over a sewing kit. For the next hour or so, I whittled away at the piece of rice, working it free.
And then, just like that, it crumbled to pieces.
Once again, I’ve got a working phone. I’ve got a working truck. I’ve got access to a hot shower, and places to charge my gear.
I’m back in business and can’t wait to find out what tomorrow holds.

After the storm, a beautiful sunset. Pam LeBlanc photo

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BBQ on an oyster reef, a new tent, dolphins and a swimming snake…

BBQ on an oyster reef, a new tent, dolphins and a swimming snake…

Branndon Bargo, West Hansen and Jeff Wueste pulled their kayaks onto an oyster reef in the Intracoastal Waterway near Port O’Connor Tuesday and ate barbecue from Peter’s BBQ in Ellinger. Jimmy Harvey photo

I’m driving back down to the coast today, after taking a day off to catch up on other projects here in Austin.
In the meantime, I checked in by phone with West Hansen, leader of the Third Coast Cowboys Epic Kayak trip from South Padre Island to the Louisiana border. Hansen, along with Jeff Wueste, Jimmy Harvey and Branndon Bargo, began their mini-expedition a week ago. They’re about halfway through the 385-mile trip.
Hansen described Tuesday’s 37.4 mile-paddle from Rockport north along the Intracoastal Waterway as calm. After a late 8:30 a.m. start, the team crossed two bays. They stopped for lunch on an oyster reef about the size of a backyard trampoline, munching on brisket and ribs from Peter’s BBQ in Ellinger (delivered by Hansen’s wife the previous evening). They got rid of the tents ruined in the Sunday night storm and debuted a new, sturdier North Face tent that’s not as breathable, but less likely to blow down in a storm.
Hansen took a few minutes to answer some questions from readers, too:

What are you eating? “We’ve all got different appetite issues. I’m not hungry at all. The other guys get hungry. But I’m eating two packs of instant oatmeal (apple cinnamon) and two cups of instant coffee for breakfast, and a 1,600-calorie protein drink as I’m paddling in the morning. For lunch it’s a can of tuna, trail mix, nuts, Cholula sauce, water and electrolyte pills, and for dinner, dehydrated meals. Sometimes I’ll eat two.”

How’s that chafed patch of skin on your lower back? “It’s the standard thing.” (I watched him apply anti-bacterial ointment the other day.)

West Hansen’s back is chafing from rubbing against the seat in his kayak. Pam LeBlanc photo

What other physical issues are you dealing with? “We’re all starting to lose fingernails, they’re getting loose. Everybody snores; no one cares. It feels really good to put foot powder on at night.”

What do y’all talk about all day while you’re paddling? “Music, trivia, navigation.”

Do you paddle all together as a group? “Jimmy paddles all by himself up ahead. We all stay within sight distance.”

What’s your average speed? “3.8-4 mph.”

How do you keep clean? “Jimmy stinks.” And from a disembodied voice in the background: “I bathed in Dawn dishwashing liquid!”

How’s Branndon doing? (Bargo is new to sea kayaking, and struggled early on with sea sickness.): “Brandon’s paddling has improved, yeah, I can say that. He started with not much experience and he’s really stepped up. He’s learning quickly so we’re all very proud of him.”

What wildlife did you see Tuesday? “Lots of dolphins, and Jimmy saw a snake swimming across the channel. Redfish tailing. We paddled past Aransas National Wildlife Refuge. We need a breeze tonight to get rid of the mosquitoes.”

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