It got really cold, but we skied Copper Mountain anyway…

It got really cold, but we skied Copper Mountain anyway…

Hardly anybody was skiing yesterday at Copper Mountain, and the snow was great. Pam LeBlanc photo

Temperatures cold enough to freeze the bottle of water I left in the car overnight didn’t keep us off the mountain yesterday.

Chris and I just stuck toe warmers on our socks and hand warmers in our gloves, then covered every patch of exposed skin with clothing before catching a chair lift to the top of Copper Mountain in minus 15-degree weather.

After a few days of skiing Monarch Mountain near Salida, we drove to Frisco on Tuesday. We’re now staying at the cozy Frisco Inn on Galena Street, which feels like staying at a friend’s house (and that friend brews three kinds of amazing coffee every day, cooks you hearty pre-ski breakfasts and pours you a glass of wine to sip in front of the fireplace every night). From our base in Frisco, we’re exploring nearby Copper Mountain and Arapahoe Basin.

In the meantime, a blast of winter weather has arrived.

Lots of wide open expert terrain to tackle at Copper Mountain. Pam LeBlanc photo

Guide Todd Casey at Copper explained the resort’s two-peak layout. I skied here two years ago, but since the big news is a new lift that opened this season. The Three Bears lift, the culmination of a 15-year vision, now whisks skiers up Tucker Mountain, to some of the steepest, lift-served terrain in Colorado.

“There’s more challenging terrain here than people realize,” Casey said. “It’s steep, north-facing, ungroomed, above-the-treeline into glades. It’s always been inbounds, just not often used.”

The key to skiing in minus 15-degree temps? Cover up every patch of skin, like Chris LeBlanc, shown here. Pam LeBlanc photo

If you like double-black drops, chutes and razor-edge ridgelines, this is your mecca.
We spent most of our time in the slightly milder terrain of Copper Bowl, where we bounded down fluffy mounds of snow, and in the untracked stretches of powder back in Union Meadows. We also found lots of gorgeous glades, where the wind couldn’t find us among the trees.

And here’s a tip for skiing Copper in cold weather: Take advantage of the American Flyer lift, where you can pull down the blue-tinted, plastic bubble cover to shield yourself from the elements. Also, stop frequently for hot chocolate.

Today, we’re heading to Arapaho Basin. The forecast calls for balmier temperatures in the 20s, and snow all day.

I’ll take that.

The temperatures at Copper Mountain never reached zero yesterday, and it was minus 15 when we started. Pam LeBlanc photo

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Spending a night at the historic Palace Hotel in Salida

Spending a night at the historic Palace Hotel in Salida

 

 

The Palace Hotel in Salida opened in 1909. Photo by Pam LeBlanc

I’d much rather stay in a historic old hotel with creaky floors and stairs instead of elevators than at a modern, cookie cutter chain, so I knew I’d be happy as soon as I swung open the front door of the Palace Hotel in downtown Salida.

Here are 10 things I loved most about the place, which opened in 1909:

 

  1. The lobby, decorated with historic photos of cowboys, a chandelier straight out of the Old West and old-fashioned tin type photos made by a local artist. I needed to do a little work, so I set up shop at the desk and logged onto the WIFI.
  2. Free guest laundry, which I took advantage of since I’m burning through long underwear and ski socks like they’re made of kindling.
  3. Breakfast, delivered. The chef himself dropped off a yogurt parfait made with yogurt, granola and fruit, along with the fresh-baked muffin of the day (I liked oatmeal best, but also tried cranberry orange and banana). Its breakfast delivered to your room at whatever time you request.

    The lobby of the Palace Hotel in Salida, where I spent three nights during a visit to Monarch Mountain. Pam LeBlanc photo

  4. The environmental consciousness. No individually-packaged containers of shampoo or conditioner (it’s in a big pump bottle), a tiny bar of hand-made soap without a wrapper, and no daily maid service (really, who needs it?) unless requested.
  5. A kitchenette. The Governor Hunt suite where we stayed ($195 per night) comes with a small kitchen complete with full-sized fridge, microwave oven, a tiny oven and stovetop, plus all the dishes you need to cook pasta, which we did one night. The Palace Hotel in Salida opened in 1909. Pam LeBlanc photo[/caption]
  6. A gorgeous view of the mountains from all the windows.
  7. A great downtown location across from a park, kitty corner to an old Victorian bar, and a block down from the bustling Boathouse Cantina, where you can eat a burger and watch the river roll past.
  8. Walking distance to the amazing Café Dawn, which serves amazing soup for lunch (we had white bean and spinach), along with an assortment of bagels, quiches and coffees.
  9. Plenty of room. Our suite, the Governor Hunt (Room 301) was spacious, with a king-sized bed, a kitchenette with a small table, and a couch arranged in front of a flat-screen TV.
  10. An amazing staff. One night I was craving chocolate. We couldn’t find a nearby shop, so we asked the clerk at the desk. Everyplace nearby was closed, so she shared her own personal bag of peanut M&Ms with us. Breakfast is included in room rates. Pam LeBlanc photo[/caption]

 

 

The Palace Hotel in Salida opened in 1909. Photo by Pam LeBlanc

I’d much rather stay in a historic old hotel with creaky floors and stairs instead of elevators than at a modern, cookie cutter chain, so I knew I’d be happy as soon as I swung open the front door of the Palace Hotel in downtown Salida.

Here are 10 things I loved most about the place, which opened in 1909:

 

  1. The lobby, decorated with historic photos of cowboys, a chandelier straight out of the Old West and old-fashioned tin type photos made by a local artist. I needed to do a little work, so I set up shop at the desk and logged onto the WIFI.
  2. Free guest laundry, which I took advantage of since I’m burning through long underwear and ski socks like they’re made of kindling.
  3. Breakfast, delivered. The chef himself dropped off a yogurt parfait made with yogurt, granola and fruit, along with the fresh-baked muffin of the day (I liked oatmeal best, but also tried cranberry orange and banana). Its breakfast delivered to your room at whatever time you request.
  4. 4. The environmental consciousness. No individually-packaged containers of shampoo or conditioner (it’s in a big pump bottle), a tiny bar of hand-made soap without a wrapper, and no daily maid service (really, who needs it?) unless requested.

  5. A kitchenette. The Governor Hunt suite where we stayed ($195 per night) comes with a small kitchen complete with full-sized fridge, microwave oven, a tiny oven and stovetop, plus all the dishes you need to cook pasta, which we did one night.
  6. The Palace Hotel in Salida opened in 1909. Pam LeBlanc photo

  7. A gorgeous view of the mountains from all the windows.
  8. A great downtown location across from a park, kitty corner to an old Victorian bar, and a block down from the bustling Boathouse Cantina, where you can eat a burger and watch the river roll past.
  9. Walking distance to the amazing Café Dawn, which serves amazing soup for lunch (we had white bean and spinach), along with an assortment of bagels, quiches and coffees.
  10. Plenty of room. Our suite, the Governor Hunt (Room 301) was spacious, with a king-sized bed, a kitchenette with a small table, and a couch arranged in front of a flat-screen TV.
  11. An amazing staff. One night I was craving chocolate. We couldn’t find a nearby shop, so we asked the clerk at the desk. Everyplace nearby was closed, so she shared her own personal bag of peanut M&Ms with us.
  12. Breakfast is included in room rates. Pam LeBlanc photo

About Pam

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Swimming at high elevation makes me gasp

Swimming at high elevation makes me gasp

I’m about to head into the Salida Hot Springs Aquatic Center for a swim. Chris LeBlanc photo

SALIDA — The snow was sifting down outside the windows this morning as I swam laps in an 83-degree pool heated by a natural hot springs.

The water felt great after a couple of days zipping down the slopes at nearby Monarch Mountain, where I’m getting my ski legs back this week.

The Civilian Conservation Corps built the aquatics center in the 1930s. The naturally-heated water is piped (via insulated pipes) from Poncha Springs a few miles away.

Anyone can pay to swim laps in the indoor, spring-fed pool. Pam LeBlanc photo

By the time the water gets here, it’s stil toasty. The intake into the “leisure” pool is about 102 degrees. A cooler section is about 1 degree cooler. The lap pool temperature was hovering at 83 degrees.

As it turns out, it’s tough to swim at higher elevations if you live in Austin. I’ve been huffing and puffing just climbing stairs up here in the Colorado mountains, and a leisurely few laps raised my heart rate. Swimming a mile felt like swimming two.

To compromise, I swam a mile and half, then lolled around in the hotter leisure pool for a few minutes.

The Salida Hot Springs Aquatic Center is open daily for lap swimming and soaking. Pam LeBlanc photo

The guy behind the desk came out to say hi, and encouraged me to log my miles. Swimmers here are logging miles as part of a virtual trip around the globe. So far, they’ve made it all the way to Thailand; they hope to reach the Maldives by the end of 2020.

Of note: You can rent a private tub here by the hour, too. The private rooms, located a level down from the main swimming pool, have a deep tub which you manually fill with water, depending on the temperature you prefer.

The center is located at 410 W. Rainbowl Boulevard in Salida.  Admission to the center is $11 for adults, but if you come before 10 a.m. weekdays it’s only $5.

For more information go  to www.salidarec.com.

A sign at the front lists the current water temperatures in the pools. Pam LeBlanc photo

 

 

 

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It’s 101 degrees, but I’m planning my backcountry cocktails

It’s 101 degrees, but I’m planning my backcountry cocktails

This kit containing everything I need to make cocktails on my next hut skiing trip, arrived at my doorstep Friday. Pam LeBlanc photo

Yes, the thermostat at my house is currently registering 101 degrees, but it’s never too hot to think about what cocktails might warm you up on your next backcountry ski trip.

Just today, a care package arrived from my friends at Breckenridge Distillery in Breckenridge, Colorado, where I traveled earlier this year to celebrate the bourbon, gin and vodka-maker’s 10thanniversary. (Read that article at https://www.austin360.com/entertainmentlife/20181127/when-in-colorado-dont-miss-breckenridge-distillery)

I wiped the sweat from my brow as I unloaded a full-sized bottle of bourbon (!!), a collapsible flask, and an assortment of mini bottles of booze and accoutrements to help me prepare sophisticated cocktails on my next hut skiing adventure.

Here’s the gorgeous Sisters Hut where I stayed in January. Photo by Pam LeBlanc

I love the peace and quiet of hut skiing, which gets you off busy downhill runs and into the woods, where you essentially hike up a mountain on special skis, and hang out in a cabin or hut, warming up with cocktails.

I’ve done it several times, and this past year stayed at the brand new Sisters Cabin near Breckenridge. (Other favorites are Artist and Opus cabins near Ouray. Magnificent!)

Austyn Dineen packing it in during our girls’ back country ski trip in January. Pam LeBlanc photo

I’ve always just packed a little straight whiskey for those adventures, but the folks at Breckenridge showed me last February, when they set up a bar in the snow outside of Sisters Cabin, that it’s easy to do one better.

Below are several suggested recipes. They work best in snowy environments.

Cheers!

 

Snowball Old Fashioned

Ingredients:

2 ounces Breckenridge Bourbon

.25 ounces maple syrup

Dash of bitters

Orange zest

Dehydrated cherries

 

Combine all ingredients and stir. Add snowball to your cocktail. (Pack a mini bottle of bitters. Recycle your orange peels and use berries from your trail mix.) Optional: Smoke using a fire log.

 

Hot Smoked Cider

Ingredients:

1.5 ounces Breckenridge Spiced Whiskey

Apple cider packet

6 ounces hot water

6 ounces cinnamon stick

Ignite cinnamon stick and smoke the glass while preparing cocktail. Pour ingredients into smoked glass.

 

Backcountry Tea

Ingredients:

1 ounce Breckenridge vodka

6 ounces hot water

Teako green tea

Honey stick

Combine all ingredients and stir. Pour honey from stick into your cocktail.

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Bear Creek hike shows power of an avalanche

Bear Creek hike shows power of an avalanche

Hikers make their way through the site of an avalanche that occurred in March or April on the Bear Creek Trail in Telluride, Colorado. Pam LeBlanc photo

I got an up close look at the power of an avalanche while hiking the Bear Creek Trail at Telluride in August.

Officials say sometime in March or April a massive slide shot through Bear Creek, about three-quarters of the way up the Bear Creek Trail, which ends at a waterfall not far from town.  As the avalanche raced down the drainage, it swept aspen and pine trees, boulders, debris and massive amounts of snow with it.

The avalanche swept down pine and aspen trees and covered the trail, which crews have cleared. Pam LeBlanc photo

It’s an impressive sight.

I walked up the trail, through patches of purple and white flowers, along the hill above the creek, admiring the views of distant mountains. The trail gets lots of traffic from hikers, mountain bikers and runners.

It took about 30 minutes to reach the debris field, which spanned both sides of the trail for a distance of about the length of a football field. Broken trees and trunks, sliced away by crews clearing the trail after the snow melted, were strewn across the meadow.

The trail has been cleared, and most of it was unaffected by the avalanche. Pam LeBlanc photo

Thankfully, nobody died in this avalanche, but two people were killed in avalanches around Telluride last winter. A man who was skinning was killed farther up the Bear Creek drainage died when a snowboarder apparently triggered an avalanche in February. A back country skier was killed a few weeks later near Lizard Head Pass, 12 miles south of Telluride.

Telluride saw a huge snow year last winter, recording 371 inches for the season.

The views from the Bear Creek Trail are spectacular. Pam LeBlanc photo

Here’s a quick video of the scene:

 

 

 

About Pam

I’m Pam LeBlanc. Follow my blog to keep up with the best in outdoor travel and adventure. Thanks for visiting my site.

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