Arctic Cowboys set to launch Northwest Passage kayaking expedition

Arctic Cowboys set to launch Northwest Passage kayaking expedition

Northwest Passage kayaking expedition

Jeff Wueste, West Hansen and Rebekah Feaster, the Arctic Cowboys, pose with their Epic sea kayaks this week before launching their Northwest Passage kayaking expedition. Photo courtesy Rebekah Feaster

After four days of waiting out gale force winds, the Texas-based trio of paddlers known as the Arctic Cowboys are poised to launch their attempt to kayak the entire Northwest Passage.

“Winds have died down. Water is clear of ice and all lights are green for us,” expedition leader West Hansen said this morning from the small Inuit community of Pond Inlet on the western side of Baffin Bay, where the team arrived last week.

If all goes as planned, they’ll head out on their roughly 2,100-mile expedition tonight. At about 9 p.m. EDT, a local resident will shuttle the paddlers – Hansen, 60, along with teammates Jeff Wueste, 62, and Rebekah Feaster, 31 – and their gear two-and-a-half hours by boat to Button Point, a small outcropping on Bylot Island at the western edge of Baffin Bay. They’ll either start paddling at about midnight, or overnight in a small cabin at the point and officially launch Tuesday morning.

Darkness won’t deter them. The sun doesn’t set this time of year in the Arctic, and as they make their way south and west, they’ll paddle based on how they feel and how many miles they’ve covered, instead of just by daylight. (See their route here.)

Along the way, they’ll face a slew of challenges, including drifting chunks of ice, storms, frigid water, and, potentially, polar bears. The team is carrying bear spray, a bear horn, flares, an electric fence to set up around camp, and a 12-gage shotgun for protection.

Northwest Passage kayaking expedition details

Northwest Passage kayaking expedition

Snowcapped mountains and glaciers are visible across Eclipse Sound from Pond Inlet, where the Arctic Cowboys are preparing to launch their Northwest Passage kayaking expedition. Photo by Rebekah Feaster

Hansen expects the expedition – his third after a 2012 expedition down the entire Amazon River and a 2014 trek down the entire Volga River, both with Wueste – to take about two months.

The kayakers plan to cover about 40 miles a day this time out. If all goes well, they’ll reach Tuktoyaktuk, a small hamlet in the Inuvik region of Canada’s Northwest Territories, by late September. (Track them here.) If the expedition pushes into October, Hansen says the team has the cold weather paddling experience needed to handle it.

“As we’ve shown in Russia, we can paddle in snow and ice conditions,” he says. “We don’t see that happening, but if it does, we’re good for the last couple hundred miles.”

About two weeks into the adventure, they’ll reach the Bellot Strait, a treacherous, 16-mile, steep-walled channel known for swift currents, a dense population of polar bears, and drift ice that could act as kayak-wrecking torpedoes. Somewhere in that area, they should encounter fellow Austin adventurer Robert Youens, who is attempting to cross the Northwest Passage – heading the opposite direction – in a jon boat. He’ll provide any needed support to the Cowboys, who have also shipped boxes of resupply goods to a point farther along their route.

Other attempts have failed

Arctic Cowboys

Jeff Wueste and Rebekah Feaster check their kayaks after they arrived in Pond Inlet last week. Photo courtesy West Hansen

Unlike other paddlers who have attempted to traverse the Northwest Passage in a single season, the Arctic Cowboys are starting in the northeast and heading southwest, so they cover the coldest, iciest, and most difficult sections of the journey first. If they’d gone the other direction, they could have been turned back by ice-clogged passages just as they neared the finish, Hansen says.

His theory will be tested this season. Another adventurer, 50-year-old Karl Kruger, of Orcas Island, Washington, who hopes to become the first person to navigate the Northwest Passage by standup paddleboard, is traveling the opposite direction. He launched on July 24 and said this week that the navigation is difficult with so few landmarks and constant daylight.

Related: Texas’ craziest endurance paddler is taking on his biggest challenge yet

Unplanned delays and exploring the culture

The Arctic Cowboys’ launch this week can’t come soon enough for Hansen, Wueste and Feaster, who left Austin to drive to Canada on July 15, then got delayed in Ottawa for a week due to complications shipping their gear farther north. That pause tacked $10,000 in unexpected hotel, meal, shipping, and flight expenses onto the expedition tab, which Hansen initially estimated at about $45,000. (To donate, go here.)

After arriving in Pond Inlet on July 25, the team spent a few days finalizing permits and fine-tuning gear. Then the bad weather set in. They’ve been pinned down in an apartment provided by locals while they wait out the winds, which are predicted to ease tonight.

Northwest Passage kayaking expedition

The population of Pond Inlet is about 1,500. Photo by Rebekah Feaster

That lag time gave the paddlers a chance to experience some of the local culture. The landscape is desolate but beautiful, they say, with no trees and lots of dirt, rocks, and fields of stubby grass and small flowers. Chunks of ice are floating in Eclipse Sound, just offshore. The town itself, whose population is about 1,500, consists of a scattered collection of ramshackle but sturdy buildings.

Related: In two weeks, the Arctic Cowboys will leave Austin to kayak the Northwest Passage

“(The ice) is kind of cool to look at,” Hansen says. “The water is very placid and there are big snow-capped mountains and glaciers in the distance.”

They’ve also been tuning into a Canadian comedy called Letterkenny, and sampling local fare like caribou, narwhal, Arctic char, and a type of traditional flatbread called bannock. “Narwhal is a bit chewy,” Hansen says. “We ate it raw, and it tasted good, but after chewing a while you just have to swallow gristle. The caribou – I loved it. It’s like venison but less gamey, and very rich.”

Temperatures have hovered in the mid- to upper 40s – more comfortable than the sizzling heat the team left behind in Texas, and, according to Hansen, perfect for kayaking.  Forecasts call for a continued warming trend into the month of August, too, which should work in the team’s favor. Already, leads – or narrow gaps in the ice through which the kayakers can squeeze – are opening along their route.

“We feel really good,” Hansen says. “There’s less ice along our pathway now than there was a week ago.”

Related: Arctic Cowboys add female paddler to 2022 Northwest Passage expedition

Once they pass Bylot Island in the next few days, the islands that make up the Canadian Arctic Archipelago will provide more protection from storms blowing in off Greenland and Baffin Bay, reducing the likelihood of more weather delays.

“If we get through the first month, we’re home free, pretty much,” Hansen says.

Ready to start the Northwest Passage kayaking expedition

pond inlet arctic cowboys

The Arctic Cowboys have been pinned down in Pond Inlet for the last week, securing permits and waiting out gale force winds before they launch their Northwest Passage kayaking expedition. Photo by Rebekah Feaster

As for now, the paddlers are antsy, and eager to get moving.

“I’m worn out. Honestly, I need to get out there and start camping to charge my batteries,” Hansen says.

Feaster and Wueste second that notion.

“We’ve kind of been going stir crazy over the last week, and I’m just ready to get on the water and do it,” Feaster says, adding that she’s looking forward to seeing things most people will never see, like narwhals, seals, beluga whales, and orca in the wild.

“This is so beautiful and so different than anything I’ve paddled in before,” Wueste says. “This ice paddling is going to be new to all of us … but I say we have the best watercraft for this kind of travel in these conditions.”

With the permits secured, the paperwork finished, the boats rigged, and the duffels loaded, the Arctic Cowboys are inches away from doing what they came here to do – dip their paddles into the chilly Arctic water for hours at a time.

“We’ve made amazing progress starting in Austin, Texas, and now we’re staring at the Northwest Passage,” Hansen says.

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Arctic Cowboys add female paddler to 2022 Northwest Passage expedition

Arctic Cowboys add female paddler to 2022 Northwest Passage expedition

Rebekah Feaster, shown here during the 2021 Texas Water Safari, plans to join the Arctic Cowboys expedition through the Northwest Passage this summer. Photo by Ashley Landis/Texas Water Safari

The Arctic Cowboys, a crew of Texas-based paddlers who will attempt to kayak the Northwest Passage this summer, have added a fourth athlete to their team – 31-year-old Rebekah Feaster.

Feaster will round out a lineup that now includes expedition leader West Hansen, along with veteran paddlers Jeff Wueste, and Jimmy Harvey. Joe Watson is the team’s research coordinator. If they complete the expedition, they will become the first to kayak the 1,900-mile passage.

Hansen headed an expedition down the entire Amazon River in 2012 and paddled the Volga River two years later. In 2020, he led a group of kayakers up the Texas coast, from South Padre Island to the Louisiana border.

The Arctic Cowboys expedition – and no, they’re not changing the name despite the cowgirl element – will begin in late July and take an estimated 60 days. The team will paddle from Pond Inlet on the northeastern side of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago to Tuktoyaktuk in the southwest. Along the way they’ll face a slew of challenges, likely to include polar bears, sea ice, storms, and frigid water.

Rebekah Feaster Arctic Cowboys

Rebekah Feaster drives a canoe during the 2021 Texas Water Safari. Photo by Sandy Goynes Yonley

Feaster brings youth and skill to Arctic Cowboys

Feaster brings solid paddling chops to the team. She has finished the Texas Water Safari, a 260-mile non-stop paddling race from San Marcos to the Texas coast, eight times, and holds the record for the youngest female to complete it solo. (She was 18 in 2009 when she nabbed the record.) She credits her father, a veteran paddler, and canoe teachers Peter and Kathie Derrick, for teaching her paddling skills.

“I like really hard challenges,” she said via a call from Italy today. “There’s something in me that whatever is the hardest thing, I’m going to pick that.”

Feaster hasn’t paddled since last July, but is training for an Ironman triathlon taking place this June.

“Honestly, when I was trying to decide if I wanted to do this, my initial answer was yes, absolutely,” Feaster said. “Then I started thinking about it and I was, ‘Oh shit, that sounds kind of miserable – and polar bears and whales and I don’t know what else is up there.’ And I don’t like cold water. It’s definitely going to be tough for me. I’m a Texas girl and I love heat.”

Hansen is confident in her abilities. He describes Feaster as a “badass paddler” who is “probably faster than the rest of the team.” She’ll bring the advantages – and disadvantages – of youth, he says, and notes that her personality and ability to rise above the fray are spot on for joining the group.

“The life experiences of a woman are different than that of men, so Rebekah’s potentially different perspectives or approaches with regard to expedition nuances or decisions in the field will be a welcome change from the decisions we’ve made during previous expeditions,” he says.

Feaster eager to add female perspective to adventuring

Rebekah Feaster Arctic Cowboys

Rebekah Feaster will attempt to paddle the Northwest Passage with the Arctic Cowboys this summer. Kate Tart photo

Feaster agrees.

“They’ve always had just dudes on the team for this type of adventure,” she says. “When I have to deal with my period and all the things that involve adventuring as a female – I think it’s going to be good for them. I think it will help them appreciate women in the crazy adventure world. I think they need some young blood on the team as well. I’m looking forward to it.”

She says she loves laughing, and the Arctic Cowboys are known for their story telling capabilities and senses of humor.

“They’re just old geezers who are ridiculous,” she says. “I’m looking forward to them making me laugh, because I know that will happen a lot.”

She says she’s also prepared for “come to Jesus moments” and confrontations.

“I will cry at points, but we’ll have to work through it,” she said. “I feel like I’m going to have some miserable moments where I have to dig deep. But this kind of feels like next challenge. This is a totally different kind of adventure that’s going to break me in a lot of ways, but in a good way.”

Feaster graduated with a music degree from Baylor University, and is a pianist. As much as she’d like to bring her instrument on the trip, she’ll likely have to leave it behind. “The weight seems like a bit of problem, though maybe I’ll bring a harmonica,” she says.

Feaster is currently living in Italy, where her husband is serving a two-year assignment as an F16 pilot with the U.S. Air Force. She’ll travel to Austin in July to join the Arctic Cowboys team.

 

 

 

 

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Ten miles from finish of Great Alabama 650, Hansen forced ashore by wind and chop

Ten miles from finish of Great Alabama 650, Hansen forced ashore by wind and chop

Hansen sleeping Alabama

West Hansen naps on the side of the river. He’s currently holed up in a different spot, 10 miles from the finish of the Great Alabama 650, waiting for bay conditions to improve. Barbara Hansen Edington photo

Austin paddler West Hansen pulled ashore about 10 miles from the finish of the Great Alabama 650 Thursday afternoon, and at 9 p.m. he was still hunkered down, waiting for conditions to improve in Mobile Bay.

A small craft advisory was in effect, and winds were 17 miles per hour. Hansen’s support crew said he likely would wait until morning to cover the final miles to Fort Morgan.

Despite the delay – Hansen has been grounded since about 3 p.m. – he remained in position to win the men’s solo division of the 650-mile paddling race. The next closest paddlers were still more than 100 miles back at 9 p.m.

The tandem team of Paul Cox and Joe Mann, who finished at 7:49 a.m. Thursday, won the overall race. The tandem team of Bobby Johnson and Rod Price were second, followed by solo female winner Salli O’Donnell, whom Hansen had predicted early on would be his biggest competition among solo paddlers.

Cox and Mann broke their own record, finishing four days, 22 hours and 25 minutes after the race started Saturday morning.

Paddling toward the finish of the Great Alabama 650

O’Donnell, 61, and Hansen, 59, paddled within a few miles of one another for much of the race, swapping the lead several times, but she pulled away early Thursday, as they neared the bay.

Salli O'Donnell blister

Salli O’Donnell shows off a blister after finishing the Great Alabama 650. Photo courtesy Salli O’Donnell

When told that Hansen had been forced ashore and was waiting for better conditions, O’Donnell, who had already made it back to her home in Florida, groaned.

“Those are brutal miles,” she said. “My heart is breaking for him because I know he just wants to get off that freaking course.”

She said she found it odd that she and Hansen had paired up for so much of the race.

“He’s definitely a faster paddler than I am,” she said. “Each of us has our own ebb and flow. I told him when you’re flowing you’ve got to keep going because if we match each other’s ebbs we’re going to be slow.”

A long race

The 650-mile race started Saturday morning in northeastern Alabama. Rain that fell steadily during the first three days boosted flows along the route, which follows the Coosa and Alabama Rivers. The rain kept up for three days, turning roads and checkpoints into mud pits.

Last night and this morning, as they cut through the wide, exposed waters of the bay, the racers faced buffeting winds, 2- to 3-foot chop, and much cooler temperatures. At one point Wednesday night, Hansen rolled his boat. He came ashore to dry off, warm up and reset, losing more time against O’Donnell. He also experienced trouble with his boat’s rudder.

“Salli was just well conditioned. She knew the course,” said Robert Youens, one of Hansen’s crew members.

The last 18 miles of the race are a slog, as the racers swing to the west, paralleling a narrow strip of coastline at the bottom of Mobile Bay. Waves today were so big at times that the paddlers disappeared from view between swells, Youens said.

west hansen alabama

West Hansen takes a break during the Great Alabama 650. He was forced ashore Wednesday afternoon and is still waiting for conditions to improve. Photo by Barbara Hansen Edington

A perfect race

Race director Greg Wingo said the race couldn’t’ have unfolded any better. “We have a new record that’s going to be unbelievably hard to beat, and another historic battle between Salli and Bobby (Johnson, in the second-place tandem team) that went down to the wire,” Wingo said.

Youens said he was proud of Hansen’s effort, especially since the racers who beat him all have paddled the Great Alabama 650 before.

“These are experienced people who knew all the tricks,” he said. “He’s a freshman to this race and he ran with three veteran crews. It’s a hell of an accomplishment.”

hansen

West Hansen heads out for more paddling. Photo by Barbara Hansen Edington

 

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Hansen, O’Donnell still battling on Day 5 of Great Alabama 650

Hansen, O’Donnell still battling on Day 5 of Great Alabama 650

Jennifer Fratzke Pettus Bridge

Jennifer Fratzke passes beneath the Edmund Pettus Bridge in Selma at rush hour Tuesday. Photo by Kimberly Hubbard/Courtesy Alabama 650

With about 85 miles to Fort Morgan, West Hansen and Salli O’Donnell continued to battle it out on Day 5 of the Great Alabama 650 paddling race.

The two veteran endurance paddlers, both leading their solo classes, paddled within a few miles of each other all day Wednesday, with O’Donnell out front by a few miles. At 5 p.m. they were both chasing the two tandem teams in the overall lead by another 15 and 35 miles.

It’s going to come down to strategy – and how much sleep the racers take before their final dash across Mobile Bay to Fort Morgan.

The 650-mile race started Saturday morning in northeastern Alabama. Rain that fell steadily during the first three days boosted flows along the route, which follows the Coosa and Alabama Rivers.

The paddlers are on track to break last year’s record of five days, 23 hours and change, set by Joe Mann and Paul Cox, who are also leading this year’s race. The top boats could reach Fort Morgan before noon Thursday.

Hansen’s crew has focused on keeping the Austin paddler, who paddled the entire Amazon River in 2012 and the entire Volga River in 2014, as comfortable as possible. They have rigged a make-shift backrest for the 59-year-old social worker from Austin, scrubbed him down, treated his chafing and blisters, and let him sleep in their support van for three or four hours each night.

O’Donnell’s crew is working hard to keep the 61-year-old Florida athlete healthy, too.

“It’s going to be interesting to see if the body maintenance Salli and West have done is going to pay off,” said Robert Youens, one of Hansen’s crew members, on Day 5 of the Great Alabama 650.

Hansen, apparently, has held on to his dry sense of humor through the ordeal.

“The Texas Water Safari isn’t long enough to know if your boat is truly comfortable,” Hansen joked early Wednesday, according to Youens. “This race is.”

The racers have passed the final portage. All that remains now is straight paddling, through the widest, most windswept section of the course.

Related: On Day 4 of the Great Alabama 650, Hansen and O’Donnell race neck and neck 

Perfect conditions for a fast race

Bobby Johnson and Rod Price at Alabama 650

Bobby Johnson and Rod Price glide through the water near Holy Ground Battlefield Park. On Day 5 of the Great Alabama 650, they were in second place. Photo by Terri D. Stokes/Courtesy Great Alabama 650

Thirteen boats lined up at the start of the race, now in its third year. Just one has dropped out.

Race director Greg Wingo credits Saturday and Sunday’s flood-inducing downpours for keeping the paddlers moving quickly.

“Normally there’s pretty much no flow, just a very, very slow river that’s dammed in many areas. (The rain) certainly helped to have a faster race for everyone, including Joe and Paul, who are on course to destroy their own record from last year,” Wingo said on Day 5 of the Great Alabama 650.

“I cannot imagine the conditions will ever line up more perfectly than they did this year. This was at that perfect spot where we got so much rain it created really good flow, but a little more and we would have had dangerous conditions.”

A front that arrived last night has cooled things off. Temperatures are expected to dip into the low 50s tonight, chilly conditions for athletes who have been paddling for more than four days straight.

The duel continues on Day 5 of the Great Alabama 650

West and Salli Alabama 650

Salli O’Donnell, left, and West Hansen, right, have paddled within a few miles of each other throughout the Great Alabama 650. Photo courtesy Great Alabama 650

As for that neck and neck battle between Hansen and O’Donnell?

“I think it’s been a very traditional battle on the water, but the more interesting thing is the battle on the land between crews,” Wingo said. “They are always jockeying for better position and trying to outdo each other tactically. All Salli and West have to do is paddle.”

The determining factor will likely be how much rest each paddler gets and how much energy they can channel into piloting their boat.

The racers have been stopping to grab snippets of sleep along the way, but down time opens the door for teams to pass one another. As the final miles approach, some may choose to try to push through extreme fatigue.

For example, the second-place tandem team, Rod Price and Bobby Johnson, slept for just an hour Tuesday night, trying to make up time on the lead boat, Youens said.

“They’re just a time bomb waiting to blow up,” Youens said. “They’re trying to go without much sleep and they’re going to explode.”

All the racers tend to sleep for longer stretches as the race goes on, said Wingo, the race director, but the last 100 miles make some of them push the limits.

“There’s a juggling act of feeling like you need a break but seeing light at end of tunnel and not wanting to stop,” Wingo said.

To complicate matters, the last section of the race is when the racers need to stay most focused. The paddlers must navigate an area at the head of Mobile Bay where the river splits into channels. Then they reach the wide, wind-exposed stretches of Mobile Bay. The final 18 miles, where paddles cross the bottom of the bay, is typically the slowest section of the race.

“Conditions can change quickly in the bay and if you are a little foggy in the brain, that can be an issue,” Wingo said. “I certainly encourage crews to really stay hyper focused on how their racers are doing when they are in the bay.”

Follow the live race tracker here.

Salli at ferry

Salli O’Donnell cruises by Gee’s Bend Ferry. Photo by Holly Grace/Courtesy Great Alabama 650

 

 

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West Hansen and Salli O’Donnell neck and neck on Day 4 of Great Alabama 650

West Hansen and Salli O’Donnell neck and neck on Day 4 of Great Alabama 650

Day 4 of the Great Alabama 650

Lizet Alaniz, left, and Max Dugas, center, assist paddler West Hansen at a fuel stop on Day 4 of the Great Alabama 650. Photo by Rob Byrd

Solo competitors West Hansen and Salli O’Donnell were paddling side by side again Tuesday afternoon, tied for second place overall on Day 4 of the Great Alabama 650.

The two veteran endurance paddlers – both leading their classes – were about two-thirds of the way through the 650-mile race, with about 435 miles of river behind them as of 5 p.m. The race starts in northeastern Alabama and finishes at Fort Morgan in Mobile Bay.

The first three days of the race, the 13 boats that entered faced a deluge of water, the aftermath of storms that have caused flooding across the state. The rains, though, have boosted flows along the route, which follows the Coosa and Alabama Rivers as they snake from north to south. The field, now down to 12 boats, is about 10 hours ahead of last year’s pace.

West Hansen on Day 4

West Hansen takes a break during Day 4 of the Great Alabama 650. Photo by Rob Byrd

Hansen and O’Donnell are chasing a tandem team paddled by last year’s winners, Joe Mann and Paul Cox, who finished the 2020 race in just under six days.

Related: Current Events His Way: West Hansen on paddling

This year’s rain-fueled, fast-moving water will likely mean a faster finish. Robert Youens, a member of Hansen’s support crew, predicts the top boats will reach Fort Morgan sometime during the day Thursday.

“Records are going to fall,” he said.

West and Max

West Hansen looks on as Max Dugas helps during a fuel break on Day 4 of the Alabama 650. Photo by Rob Byrd

But who crosses first will depend on how long each team stops along the way. Hansen has been sleeping three or four hours each night. The racers strategically try to pass while their opponents are down. But it’s tricky – they need the rest to keep paddling.

Related: Day 3 of the Great Alabama 650

“It’s all going to be about sleep cycles from this point forward,” Youens said.

Before sunrise on Day 4 of the Great Alabama 650, the teams paddled under the storied Edmund Pettis Bridge, the site of the brutal beatings of civil rights marchers during the 1965 march for voting rights. They glided through early morning fog, but the rain is less widespread today. Highs Wednesday and Thursday are predicted to hover in the 70s.

Challenges on Day 4 of the Great Alabama 650

Hansen’s support crew is treating the paddler for chafing on the butt and, more severely, his back. “It’s ugly,” Youens said. “But on a scale of 10, with 10 being out of the race, this is a six.”

Hansen is also has a blister on his right hand. His team scrubbed him down in the shower last night. “He’s physically challenged right now but mentally there,” Youens said.

The race includes portages that the support crews ferry the racers around. Hansen rides with support crew member Max Dugas during those stretches.

“We talk about everything but the race,” Dugas said. “His mental game is on.”

Who will win?

Hansen’s paddling resume is extensive. He led an expedition down the entire Amazon River in 2012 and the entire Volga River two years later. He’s finished the Texas Water Safari, a 260-mile race from Spring Lake in San Marcos to the Texas coast, 21 times, and has wins at the Missouri River 340.

“I have good feelings about West achieving his goal of finishing before Salli. I feel good about it,” Youens said.

But they’re not done yet. The race ends with a slog through a massive tidal delta, where the paddlers will face slack water and a long, wind-exposed swathe of water.

 

 

 

 

 

About Pam

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