Hansen still leads men’s solo race on Day 3 of the Great Alabama 650

Hansen still leads men’s solo race on Day 3 of the Great Alabama 650

 
Day 3 of the Great Alabama 650

West Hansen stops to meet his crew Monday morning on Day 3 of the Great Alabama 650. Photo by Robert Youens

The rain stopped, the sun came out, and West Hansen hung onto the men’s solo lead on Monday, Day 3 of the Great Alabama 650 paddling race.

By 5 p.m. Monday, last year’s winners, the tandem team of Joe Mann and Paul Cox, had taken a 40-mile overall lead in the event, which starts in northeastern Alabama and finishes at Fort Morgan on the Gulf Coast. Solo racer Salli O’Donnell of Florida was second, with West Hansen of Austin, also racing solo, less than a mile back. A tandem boat paddled by Rod Price and Bobby Johnson was not far behind.

Hansen has paddled almost 300 miles of the 650-mile course. With such a close field, exact position doesn’t mean much now. Teams will stop periodically to rest, and those that take the shortest breaks will gain an advantage.

“Salli looked like hell. West looked like hell,” Robert Youens, a member of Hansen’s support team, said this morning. Hansen had gotten about two and a half hours of sleep in the team’s air-conditioned support vehicle. He described the paddler as “stoic and focused.”

By this afternoon, Hansen’s spirits and condition seemed even better. He barely slowed just before 5 p.m. to pick up water, sunscreen, glow sticks and a headlamp from his crew. He turned down an offer of fried chicken. He’s getting his calories mainly through liquid nutrition and electrolyte supplements, with the occasional handful of Fritos, bite of sandwich, or trail mix tossed in.

“Let’s do this,” he said as he paddled away from shore.

Day 3 of the Great Alabama 650

West Hansen talks to his wife Lizet Alaniz on Day 2 of the Great Alabama 650. Photo by Barbara Hansen Edington

Weather on Day 3 of the Great Alabama 650

Heavy rain has caused flooding around Alabama, and support crews are dealing with muddy portages and impassable roads. After two days of near-constant rain, the sun came out and temperatures warmed to 89 today, allowing the team to spread out and dry some of the soggy gear. The forecast calls for decreasing chances of rain, with high temperatures around 80 until Wednesday, when the high drops to 73 degrees. Thursday looks sunny and cool.

“This river is hauling,” Youens said. “The river’s up really big.”

Hansen passed a 7-mile stretch that typically includes rapids last night, but the water was flowing at 12,000 cubic feet per second and the whitewater was washed out.

Last year’s winners finished the 2020 race in just over five days and 23 hours. Youens predicted the fast-moving water would mean a new record this year. If he’s right, the top boats will finish sometime Thursday.

Hansen is switching boats as the race unfolds. He had been in a fast, sit-inside kayak, but he’s switched back to a C1 canoe typical of boats raced in the Texas Water Safari. It’s got a higher back seat.

“It may not be quite as fast as the other boat, but we know comfort makes a difference,” Youens said. “It wouldn’t surprise me if because of that comfort he gains time.”

So far, the support teams of the leading boats are cooperating, but that could change as the teams get closer to the finish.

“It’s the caginess of the game. Eventually this chumminess is going to fall apart because they’re racers,” Youens said. “We just don’t know where.”

West Hansen the Great Alabama 650

West Hansen on Day 2 of the Great Alabama 650. Photo by Wallace Bromberg Jr.

 

 

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Austin paddler Hansen slogs on during Day 2 of Great Alabama 650

Austin paddler Hansen slogs on during Day 2 of Great Alabama 650

West Hansen takes a breather after reaching Matagorda Cut while paddling up the Texas coast in this file photo taken on May 23, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

Rain is still falling in Alabama, where West Hansen is running side by side with another veteran solo paddler, Salli O’Donnell, in the Greater Alabama 650 paddling race.

The two are tied for second place in the long-distance race, which starts in northeastern Alabama and finishes at Fort Morgan in Mobile Bay.

At 9:30 p.m. Sunday, the two veteran paddlers – both leading their classes – had paddled 195 miles of the 650-mile race. After more than a day and a half of paddling nearly non-stop, both looked stiff and shaky getting out of their boats at an evening portage, par for the course in long-distance paddling events.

The route of what’s called The World’s Longest Annual Paddle Race follows the Coosa and Alabama rivers, passing Montgomery and Selma as it winds its way toward the Gulf of Mexico. Along the way, paddlers alternately encounter swift moving rivers, slack-water lakes and, at the end, a tidal delta.

Read more: Great Alabama 650 gets off to a soggy start

Hansen, 59, and O’Donnell, who finished first solo female and second overall in last year’s Great Alabama 650, are chasing a tandem team paddled by last year’s winners, Joe Mann and Paul Cox. They spent much of the day tied for third place, but tonight caught the second place boat, a tandem paddled by Bobby Johnson and Rod Price.

“We’re moving the pawns around in a long chess game,” support crew member Robert Youens said from the riverbank Sunday afternoon.

Unlike the Texas Water Safari, which Hansen has completed 21 times, this race is so long that racers must stop and sleep along the way. Hansen caught two hours of sleep Saturday night and will likely stop to sleep for a few hours again tonight.

O’Donnell has completed the race twice and is familiar with the course. It may be to Hansen’s advantage to stick with her, at least for now. “She knows the course and in some of these big lakes it just makes sense to run with someone who’s done it twice,” Youens said.

“I think it’s helping them keep the pace up and enjoy the race,” Youens said. “They’re extremely focused on working together to reel in the lead teams.”

Read more: When West Hansen needs a break from society, he goes with the flow

 Almost a third of the way through the Great Alabama 650

The leaders are about a third of the way through the race, which Mann and Cox won last year in just under six days.

The racers have been running ahead of pace so far, but more rain is expected tonight. “It’s going to get ugly,” Youens said.

Some of the portages that were designated drive-around portages have been switched to walking portages because roads are too muddy for vehicles to traverse. And an upcoming stretch of what would normally be whitewater is expected to be washed out because the river is flowing at more than 22,000 cubic feet per second, Youens said.

Hansen’s support crew meets him roughly every 20 to 30 miles. Today they spotted a snake at one of the portages; they’ve dealt with mud and slippery rocks, too. Their job, besides keeping him fed and hydrated, is to keep him as comfortable as possible. That means changing clothes, offering lubrication to ease chafing, and cheering him on.

“When we see him, we clean him up and lube him up,” Youens said.

Hansen’s paddling resume is extensive. He led an expedition down the entire Amazon River in 2012 and the entire Volga River two years later. He’s finished the Texas Water Safari, a 260-mile race from Spring Lake in San Marcos to the Texas coast, 21 times, and has wins at the Missouri River 340.

 

 

 

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One paddler quits, plus dolphins, a righted outhouse and big wind

One paddler quits, plus dolphins, a righted outhouse and big wind

The team paddles into shore at Bird Island Basin on Saturday, May 23, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

One paddler bailed out, a bobcat left its paw prints on the outskirts of camp, and we woke up to an impressive lightning storm this morning.
Tim “Wildman” Curry, a Spanish teacher from the Houston area, decided he’d reached the peak of the fun-o-meter after four days of paddling up the Texas coast, and bowed out of the Third Coast Cowboy Epic Kayak trip from the southern tip of South Padre Island to the Louisiana border.
By way of explanation, he offered up a comparison to hot sauce.
“You know Cholula,” he said. “It’s good. It’s just chili flavor, and that’s all it is. It’s not too hot. I’m too old for some stuff – I don’t need my ass to burn. The paddling’s kind of like that – I need a little spice, but I don’t want my ass to burn.”

Jimmy Harvey prepares for departure early Sunday, May 24. Pam LeBlanc

With that, he paddled to a parking lot at about 6 a.m. to await his wife while the other four paddlers – expedition leader West Hansen, veteran paddlers Jeff Wueste and Jimmy Harvey, and co-star of the PBS documentary program “The Highpointers” Branndon Bargo – pushed into the Intercoastal Waterway and continued their adventure.
So far, the team has knocked out about 130 miles of the roughly 385-mile trip. Hansen initially predicted they would finish in eight days. It’s clear now he overestimated that schedule, but after gliding into Bird Island Basin near Corpus Christi at about 5:30 p.m. Saturday, he shrugged off the miscalculation.
“We knew the wind would be with us, but we had this weird hour-long gale force thing that screwed everything up,” he said. “We’ve encountered some conditions that were unpredicted.”
In fact, the wind has been blowing like the world’s biggest box fan for most of the past four days, and doesn’t appear to be letting up. Jason Jones, who’s been driving me up and down the South Texas beaches, and I watched as at least three portable shade awnings set up by beach-goers crumpled to their spindly knees.
We’ve had our own adventures. We spent two nights at Matagorda Cut waiting for the team to arrive. We watched a kangaroo rat sprint across the sanddunes, ogled a raccoon in the giant granite blocks that make up the jetties, met a dog named Xena Warrior Princess, and got tangled up in a jellyfish’s tentacles. I collected sanddollars and swam frequently.

Jimmy Harvey smiles after reaching shore at Bird Island Basin on Saturday. Pam LeBlanc photo

We reconnected with the team Saturday evening at Bird Island Basin near Corpus Christi, a spot popular with windsurfers. I doled out cheeseburgers, tater tots and ice cold Cokes that had been sitting in the car for four or five hours, but nobody seemed to notice.
“Best cheeseburger I’ve ever eaten,” Hansen said.
They shared a few of the day’s adventures: They met a guy named Shawn who gave them water and orange juice, and a few hours later stopped at his bayside house, where they helped him right an outhouse that had overturned in a recent storm.
“It wasn’t just a port-o-can – it was heavy,” Hansen said.
They saw several pods of dolphins, leaping mullet, undulating jellyfish, squadrons of jellyfish and some friendly fisherman. The challenge, Hansen said, has been finding a properrhythm.
“I was hoping to have more mileage,” he said.

Not sure if West Hansen is wincing in agony or just enjoying the cheeseburger he wolfed down after pulling into shore Saturday evening. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen’s back is chafing from rubbing against the seat in his kayak. Pam LeBlanc photo

During the 2012 expedition Hansen led down the Amazon River in 2012, the team covered between 50 and 80 miles a day. That more than 4,000-mile expedition took nearly four months. Two years later, Hansen and Wueste paddled the entire Volga River in Russia.
So far on this trip, the team has paddled between 25 and 42 miles each day, but the first day and a half they were in the Gulf, where they dipped and rose in swells as big as schoolbuses. Their pace has picked up since they shifted into the more protected Intercoastal Waterway.
As he stepped out of his boat Saturday, Hansen grimaced and took a few ginger steps. He showed off a patch of severely chafed skin rubbed raw against his kayak seat as he peeled off his shredded water socks.
“It’s so nice to be away from the news and social media,” he said. “Sleeping out feels so good. The best part is hanging out with these guys.”
Bargo, a mountain climber who’d never paddled in the ocean before, struggled the first few days. He couldn’t keep food or water down, and spent hours puking into the sea.
“I knew it would be hard, but that compounded everything,” Bargo said. “That got me dehydrated, then I slowed down even more.” Also, he noted, he’s paddling with some of the best paddlers in the state. “I do everything I can just to keep up and they pull right past me.”

Jeff Wueste settles in at camp last night. Pam LeBlanc photo

I camped with the team last night, and I’m glad I did. I know I’ll get a better story in the end. (Last night’s meal was another favorite from Austin-based Packit Gourmet – the corn chowder. I rate it an A-minus. Harvey and I are comparing notes, and agree that our favorite is the Texas State Fair chili, which gets an A-plus. Shepherd pie gets a B.)
Something about popping up a tent, listening to everyone swap tales and watching the stars come out makes me feel alive. We woke up to jags of lightning ripping across the sky to the east, saw hundreds of thumb-sized crabs in the mudflats, then discovered bobcat tracks on the beach that hadn’t been there the night before.
It all made me feel ever-so-slightly feral. Or maybe that was the bottle of scotch we passed around

Branndon Bargo drags his kayak into the water early Sunday, May 24, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

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Check out photos of the Third Coast Cowboy Epic Kayak trip up the Texas coast

Check out photos of the Third Coast Cowboy Epic Kayak trip up the Texas coast

I’ve been camping and snapping photos of West Hansen and the Third Coast Cowboy Epic Kayak journey this week. After making 40 miles yesterday, they started paddling before 7 a.m. today. We’re planning to meet them at Bird Island near Padre Island National Seashore to check on them, get some quotes and take some photos. Here are a few of my favorites so far…

West Hansen and Tim Curry paddle into Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen takes a breather after reaching Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 23. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jimmy Harvey and West Hansen paddle into Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 21, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

The team leaves Mansfield Cut on Friday May 23. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jeff Wueste heats water for dinner while camping at Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 21. Pam LeBlanc photo

Branndon Bargo relaxes after a rough day on the water. He swallowed water and puked a lot during the day. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jason Jones, who’s been driving with me to chase the team, sleeps on an enormous queen-sized inflatable mattress at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

The team pulls their boats ashore at Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 21. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jimmy Harvey wrings water out of a cloth as he wipes down his kayak. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen makes a call from the top of a sand dune at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jason Jones makes friends with Xena the Warrior Princess while camping at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

Tim Curry paddles toward shore on Thursday, May 21. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jimmy Harvey laughs while cooking dinner at camp. He’s eating my favorite – Packit Gourmet, which is made in Austin. Pam LeBlanc photo

The team – Branndon Bargo, Jeff Wueste, Tim Curry, Jimmy Harvey and West Hansen, at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

Jimmy Harvey cooks dehydrated chili by Packit Gourmet while camping on night two of the Third Coast Cowboy Epic Kayak journey. Pam LeBlanc photo

West Hansen washes ashore at Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 21. Pam LeBlanc photo

I found a handful of sanddollars and seashells at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

Sunrise at Mansfield Cut. Pam LeBlanc photo

A closer look at JJ’s sleeping arrangements. Pam LeBlanc photo[/caption

[caption width="1600" id="attachment_1513" align="alignnone"] West Hansen moves closer after Jeff Wueste flipped his kayak in rough seas. Pam LeBlanc photo

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The Third Coast Cowboys are slogging up the Texas coast

The Third Coast Cowboys are slogging up the Texas coast

Jimmy Harvey and West Hansen paddle into Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 21, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

Between winds so strong they triggered a small craft advisory, swells so big the paddlers disappeared between them, boat-flipping chop and a few other setbacks (we’ll get to that), the Third Coast Cowboys’ Epic Kayak trip is puttering up the coast at about half its intended pace.
But things may be looking up.
Expedition leader West Hansen predicted the five-man team, which includes veteran paddlers Jimmy Harvey, Tim Curry and Jeff Wueste, and Branndon Bargo, co-star of the PBS documentary “The Highpointers,” would make the 385-mile trip from the southern tip of Texas to Sabine Pass near Port Arthur in a swift eight days.
Then they had to move their start from Boca Chica Beach to South Padre Island. And the winds picked up. And one of the paddlers swallowed way too much seawater on day one and couldn’t keep any food or drink down.

The team never made it to Mansfield Cut that first night, where I was hoping to meet them. They finally reached us at the end of day two, after delays that required a brief consultation with the Coast Guard. (Bargo got separated from the group and the others pulled ashore when they couldn’t find him. Hansen alerted the Coast Guard, then caught a ride in a truck up the beach where they spotted the missing paddler chugging along. Hansen returned to the group and paddled in.)
A few hours later, as I stood at the end of the jetty, I watched Wueste get pitched from his kayak just a few hundred yards from shore.
“Never a dull moment,” Hansen said when the team finallyregrouped on the beach.
We pitched our tents, enjoyed a gorgeous night on the beach, and slept until sunrise. (Harvey and I slurped up dehydrated chili from Packit Gourmet, an Austin-based company that makes really yummy camping meals. Just add boiling water.)

Jimmy Harvey and West Hansen paddle into Mansfield Cut on Thursday, May 21, 2020. Pam LeBlanc photo

This morning, the team shifted its path to the Intercoastal Waterway, to avoid the worst of the seas. They’ve been making steady progress today, but even at their current clip of between 4 and 5 mph, I’ll be surprised if we meet them at Bird Island tonight as planned.
I’ve been having my own adventures as the paddlers battle the ocean. Terlingua-based Jason Jones, longtime friends with Hansen and the crew, has been driving me all over the place – it’s a 2.5-hour, 60-mile drive down the beach just to get to the cut. Once there, I discovered a population of racoons living between the giant granite blocks that make up the levy. I managed to wrap myself up in the tentacles of a jellyfish. (Jason volunteered to pee on it, but I declined the offer.) Jason made friends with a scrappy little dog named Xena the Warrior Princess.

Tim Curry paddles toward shore on Thursday, May 21. Pam LeBlanc photo

Looks like I’ll be snoozing on a yacht belonging to a friend of a friend tonight, so life’s still good. If we don’t meet the guys tonight, we hope to catch up with them tomorrow.

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